Buckaroo

iTrader: (3)

The first is 90% to a TQ booster (easy to figure out), the second is crap (components on a flex print, circut runs and wires too small).

Friulimotosport

Ran today at another track with a much longer straight than at my local track. Was on full throttle for 5-6 seconds and even the in field had more full throttle then my local track..Need help in if its better to gear up and or add more timing? I ran my same gear and added timing but all it did was add heat.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Put the timing back and add 3 or 4 teeth to the pinion. Run for 5 min and temp. If the car is maxing out on top speed before 1/2 to 2/3 straight add another tooth and temp again. Keep doing that until temps start to drop and max speed is reached later in the straight. Make sure you have very little or no timing on the motor.

Friulimotosport

Thanks for the input. I'll give it a try next time out.

Gyr0

iTrader: (29)

I'm a little hard headed I've seen the wiring diagram for wiring a rx pack to on/off switch So do I solder the negative to negative on the switch then positve to positve. The diagram looks like they want you to solder both negaitve and positve battery leads to the negative wire on the on/off switch.

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

You don't solder the battery leads to the switch leads. Use a connector so you can detach the battery to recharge it. All you are doing is putting the battery in line with the negative switch lead so when the swich closes the circuit the RX battery powers up the ESC's internal BEC thereby powering the receiver and servo while the 1S powers the motor.

Personally I just plug my LiFe RX pack into the receiver and don't turn on the ESC. You actually use less of the RX pack this way. I normally recharge the pack with 50 to 60 mah for an eight minute heat and several warm up laps. It's much easier and you don't need to change any connectors or wires.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

plugging in directly to the rx on a 7.4v 2s if your not using a lipo ready servo it won't last long

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Not if the battery is a LiFe.

After more than two years of racing 1S each weekend from Nov to May I have not had any issues from the servo in each of my cars. Going on year three now.

ammdrew

iTrader: (25)

we are actually not seeing any loss of servo life. Your servo will be much faster though.

Wall Banger

iTrader: (1)

The diagram is correct if you wire it +to + and - to - you may burn up the bec in the RS or the RS Pro.

Gyr0

iTrader: (29)

Got it!! Thanks a lot fellas!!

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

For the longevity of your li-fe battery receiver pack, you should always unplug it from your receiver at the end of each race day. I didn't one time and later found a puffed up pack the next time I used the car. Apparently I had left the li-fe's switch on at the end of a race day and drained the pack over the next day or two.

And just last night, another WGT racer had done the same thing by leaving his li-fe pack connected.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

I was talking 7.4

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

It's always a good thing to remind people to have good battery management habits.

Dog Bone

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys, I need a little help with my 1/12th. Medium size carpet track, and I have no punch on the infield and not a lot of speed on the straight. I've got a LRP X12 17.5 (stock rotor and insert) running boosted. I had a low 80s rollout, boost 45, range 2400-9000, turbo 12, delay .2, and ramp 2.0. Motor was getting pretty warm, so I went to a smaller pinion with not much difference.

I'm also running the old reedy 4600 bats. I'm oing to try the new reedy 60c bats tomorrow to see if that helps.

Anyone offer any other setup suggestions?