Tekin RS/RS PRO on 1s Lipo Q&A
#917
Tech Elite
iTrader: (40)
I just plug mine into the receiver battery slot and your done. The only thing you have to do is charge the pack. A boster does not require it. I also run with the ESC switch off, but realise that you have NO VOLTAGE cut off, so don't run the car for 10-12 min. You may start to do damage to your 1 cell lipo.
#918
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Rx Pack (Life)
Pros:
6.6V nominal to the Rx and Servo.
About the same size as a Spektrum SR3500.
Con:
About the same size as a Spektrum SR3500.
Needs to be charged after each run (may last for two runs but why chance it).
Cheesy switch (Trinity/Epic LiFe).
Booster
Pros:
Forget it once installed.
Cons:
Most supply only 5V to the Rx and servo.
Must hardwire to battery/ESC.
No LVC (Novak has one but it cuts out too early).
My preference is the LiFe Rx pack, less to go wrong unless you forget to recharge. (charging takes about 10 minutes).
#919
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
I just plug mine into the receiver battery slot and your done. The only thing you have to do is charge the pack. A boster does not require it. I also run with the ESC switch off, but realise that you have NO VOLTAGE cut off, so don't run the car for 10-12 min. You may start to do damage to your 1 cell lipo.
#920
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
I guess my Spektrum recivers are not that particular because they work with the battery plugged into either the battery or aux slot. Seems to make no difference. However, I keep my transponder plugged in aux all the time so I do end up using only the battery slot for the battery.
#922
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Had my first big race with my 1/12 scale last weekend, and things went pretty well (2nd B-Main), with one problem: starts.
When the car was put on the track before the heat with a fully charged pack, it was a rocket - punch it, and the car was up to full speed very quickly. However, at the start of the heats (and the main ), when the peak on the battery is gone, starts were very sluggish. This cost me big-time in the main, as I dropped immediately from 2nd to 4th - I was able to fight back up to 2nd, but that was as far as I got. Bummer.
My thoughts are that gearing and timing was such that the motor needed a fully charged pack to get going - once the voltage dropped down to a steady-state for the duration of the race, there wasn't enough juice to get the car moving very rapidly from a dead-stop. Once the car was up to speed, it was very fast; nothing on the track was faster.
I don't have my car in front of me right now, but I was running a lot of boost (around 45), and about 18 turbo, with a delay of 0.1, and a ramp of 2. I don't remember what my gearing was, but it was very similar to what other people where running.
I've experienced this problem with both a Tekin 17.5 (with the standard amount of timing (12?) on the can), and an Orca 17.5 with fixed can timing.
Speedo was upgraded to 212; I don't think I was experiencing this problem with the prior version.
Suggestions? Perhaps decreasing the rollout?
When the car was put on the track before the heat with a fully charged pack, it was a rocket - punch it, and the car was up to full speed very quickly. However, at the start of the heats (and the main ), when the peak on the battery is gone, starts were very sluggish. This cost me big-time in the main, as I dropped immediately from 2nd to 4th - I was able to fight back up to 2nd, but that was as far as I got. Bummer.
My thoughts are that gearing and timing was such that the motor needed a fully charged pack to get going - once the voltage dropped down to a steady-state for the duration of the race, there wasn't enough juice to get the car moving very rapidly from a dead-stop. Once the car was up to speed, it was very fast; nothing on the track was faster.
I don't have my car in front of me right now, but I was running a lot of boost (around 45), and about 18 turbo, with a delay of 0.1, and a ramp of 2. I don't remember what my gearing was, but it was very similar to what other people where running.
I've experienced this problem with both a Tekin 17.5 (with the standard amount of timing (12?) on the can), and an Orca 17.5 with fixed can timing.
Speedo was upgraded to 212; I don't think I was experiencing this problem with the prior version.
Suggestions? Perhaps decreasing the rollout?
#923
Tech Elite
iTrader: (29)
Had my first big race with my 1/12 scale last weekend, and things went pretty well (2nd B-Main), with one problem: starts.
When the car was put on the track before the heat with a fully charged pack, it was a rocket - punch it, and the car was up to full speed very quickly. However, at the start of the heats (and the main ), when the peak on the battery is gone, starts were very sluggish. This cost me big-time in the main, as I dropped immediately from 2nd to 4th - I was able to fight back up to 2nd, but that was as far as I got. Bummer.
My thoughts are that gearing and timing was such that the motor needed a fully charged pack to get going - once the voltage dropped down to a steady-state for the duration of the race, there wasn't enough juice to get the car moving very rapidly from a dead-stop. Once the car was up to speed, it was very fast; nothing on the track was faster.
I don't have my car in front of me right now, but I was running a lot of boost (around 45), and about 18 turbo, with a delay of 0.1, and a ramp of 2. I don't remember what my gearing was, but it was very similar to what other people where running.
I've experienced this problem with both a Tekin 17.5 (with the standard amount of timing (12?) on the can), and an Orca 17.5 with fixed can timing.
Speedo was upgraded to 212; I don't think I was experiencing this problem with the prior version.
Suggestions? Perhaps decreasing the rollout?
When the car was put on the track before the heat with a fully charged pack, it was a rocket - punch it, and the car was up to full speed very quickly. However, at the start of the heats (and the main ), when the peak on the battery is gone, starts were very sluggish. This cost me big-time in the main, as I dropped immediately from 2nd to 4th - I was able to fight back up to 2nd, but that was as far as I got. Bummer.
My thoughts are that gearing and timing was such that the motor needed a fully charged pack to get going - once the voltage dropped down to a steady-state for the duration of the race, there wasn't enough juice to get the car moving very rapidly from a dead-stop. Once the car was up to speed, it was very fast; nothing on the track was faster.
I don't have my car in front of me right now, but I was running a lot of boost (around 45), and about 18 turbo, with a delay of 0.1, and a ramp of 2. I don't remember what my gearing was, but it was very similar to what other people where running.
I've experienced this problem with both a Tekin 17.5 (with the standard amount of timing (12?) on the can), and an Orca 17.5 with fixed can timing.
Speedo was upgraded to 212; I don't think I was experiencing this problem with the prior version.
Suggestions? Perhaps decreasing the rollout?
#929
#930
Had my first big race with my 1/12 scale last weekend, and things went pretty well (2nd B-Main), with one problem: starts.
When the car was put on the track before the heat with a fully charged pack, it was a rocket - punch it, and the car was up to full speed very quickly. However, at the start of the heats (and the main ), when the peak on the battery is gone, starts were very sluggish. This cost me big-time in the main, as I dropped immediately from 2nd to 4th - I was able to fight back up to 2nd, but that was as far as I got. Bummer.
My thoughts are that gearing and timing was such that the motor needed a fully charged pack to get going - once the voltage dropped down to a steady-state for the duration of the race, there wasn't enough juice to get the car moving very rapidly from a dead-stop. Once the car was up to speed, it was very fast; nothing on the track was faster.
I don't have my car in front of me right now, but I was running a lot of boost (around 45), and about 18 turbo, with a delay of 0.1, and a ramp of 2. I don't remember what my gearing was, but it was very similar to what other people where running.
I've experienced this problem with both a Tekin 17.5 (with the standard amount of timing (12?) on the can), and an Orca 17.5 with fixed can timing.
Speedo was upgraded to 212; I don't think I was experiencing this problem with the prior version.
Suggestions? Perhaps decreasing the rollout?
When the car was put on the track before the heat with a fully charged pack, it was a rocket - punch it, and the car was up to full speed very quickly. However, at the start of the heats (and the main ), when the peak on the battery is gone, starts were very sluggish. This cost me big-time in the main, as I dropped immediately from 2nd to 4th - I was able to fight back up to 2nd, but that was as far as I got. Bummer.
My thoughts are that gearing and timing was such that the motor needed a fully charged pack to get going - once the voltage dropped down to a steady-state for the duration of the race, there wasn't enough juice to get the car moving very rapidly from a dead-stop. Once the car was up to speed, it was very fast; nothing on the track was faster.
I don't have my car in front of me right now, but I was running a lot of boost (around 45), and about 18 turbo, with a delay of 0.1, and a ramp of 2. I don't remember what my gearing was, but it was very similar to what other people where running.
I've experienced this problem with both a Tekin 17.5 (with the standard amount of timing (12?) on the can), and an Orca 17.5 with fixed can timing.
Speedo was upgraded to 212; I don't think I was experiencing this problem with the prior version.
Suggestions? Perhaps decreasing the rollout?