Tekin RS/RS PRO on 1s Lipo Q&A
#346
An RX pack or booster HAS to feed back into the ESC, to make the ESC circuitry work properly. My first week of 17.5/1S lipo in 1/12th, I hadn't gotten my booster yet, so I rigged up a 300mAh 2S RX pack and CC BEC. Work good, till the first heat, when the RX pack went dead. (I hadn't recharged it after 3 practice runs or so) The motor cogged so badly the car wouldn't hardly move. (Same thing will happen if you pull the red wire from the ESC out of the receiver plug.) Recharged the RX battery and all was good. RX pack and CC BEC were too much weight tho. Car was 790 grams, with a lightweight body. Went to the TQ Booster and a regular weight body and the car is 740 grams.
#347
An RX pack or booster HAS to feed back into the ESC, to make the ESC circuitry work properly. My first week of 17.5/1S lipo in 1/12th, I hadn't gotten my booster yet, so I rigged up a 300mAh 2S RX pack and CC BEC. Work good, till the first heat, when the RX pack went dead. (I hadn't recharged it after 3 practice runs or so) The motor cogged so badly the car wouldn't hardly move. (Same thing will happen if you pull the red wire from the ESC out of the receiver plug.) Recharged the RX battery and all was good. RX pack and CC BEC were too much weight tho. Car was 790 grams, with a lightweight body. Went to the TQ Booster and a regular weight body and the car is 740 grams.
#348
Read my post again. The motor will cog horribly if you pull the red wire out of the ESC receiver plug. The voltage from the RX pack or booster has to feed back into the ESC through that red wire, to make the ESC work properly.
#349
#350
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
If you run a booster and firmware V200, the switch is turned on on the ESC. There are 2 flavors of TQ booster, the new and the old. The old one just plugs in, the new one has an inline switch. If you have the old one, you have to unplug it or the battery to truly turn the car off. With the new one, it has its own switch and you just turn it on to run and off when your done.
#351
If you run a booster and firmware V200, the switch is turned on on the ESC. There are 2 flavors of TQ booster, the new and the old. The old one just plugs in, the new one has an inline switch. If you have the old one, you have to unplug it or the battery to truly turn the car off. With the new one, it has its own switch and you just turn it on to run and off when your done.
#352
If you're running 198 or better make sure to select the 1s check box and you will run with the swtich in the on position.
#354
I got 2 RS's, an RS Pro, and 2 RX8's and 2 TX8 mtrs. That much spending, I should get a shirt for free
#356
Tech Elite
iTrader: (134)
booster
ok im getting ready to go indoors for winter, is what ive got is the old style tq booster and a rs esc and im going to run 1s packs , i do have 199 version so now do i use the esc switch to turn on or do i still just plug the battery in and leave the switch off . thanks for the help and what is a good starting point for gearing i will be running on a 40/85 size carpet track with good bite
#357
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
ok im getting ready to go indoors for winter, is what ive got is the old style tq booster and a rs esc and im going to run 1s packs , i do have 199 version so now do i use the esc switch to turn on or do i still just plug the battery in and leave the switch off . thanks for the help and what is a good starting point for gearing i will be running on a 40/85 size carpet track with good bite
What kind of racing and motor are you looking at. You'd also be better off getting the V200 from Randy. The settings for 1S (3.7V and 3.0V lipo cut off) are accessed via Hotwire only.
#359
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
I understand what you saying, but I think you'll find that with a 1s there will be more people going to the rxr pack versus the booster. Since we are concerned not only with keeping the "on" voltage to smarts of the sc, and taking into account trying to maintain a good speed on the steering servo, not having any kind of drop off at the rxr, so it has to re-search for dropped signal, and probably keeping a fan running on the motor to, I think that no matter, the booster won't do the best job.
Step up and step down convertors just aren't the same as raw available power such as what a rxr pack can supply.
At the IIC even the stock guys, the fast ones, used external rxr packs over boosters,
but if you have something working for you, go for it.
Step up and step down convertors just aren't the same as raw available power such as what a rxr pack can supply.
At the IIC even the stock guys, the fast ones, used external rxr packs over boosters,
but if you have something working for you, go for it.
#360
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
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From what I gather at our local track, no one is running Rx packs... boosters all the way. The current gen LiPo's are more than strong enough and have enough capacity to support a Booster and not impact runtime.
And I dig the small Hobby City and TQ boosters more than the Novak... the Novak is too big, too heavy ,and I think too funky. When I just re did my BMI I was tempted to put the Novak back in play to try it again, but I used the Hobby City booster just cause its small and works.
Some pics of my newly re-done 12th.
And I dig the small Hobby City and TQ boosters more than the Novak... the Novak is too big, too heavy ,and I think too funky. When I just re did my BMI I was tempted to put the Novak back in play to try it again, but I used the Hobby City booster just cause its small and works.
Some pics of my newly re-done 12th.