Bolink 200mm World GT
03-29-2009, 12:45 PM
#17
Tech Initiate
Took my own advice and drilled out the battery tray to accept pivot balls.
The difference in handling is like night and day. My litmus test is the street in front of my house. If a car can maintain any semblance of traction there, it should do pretty good on a prepared track with some tire sauce.
Prior to the pivot balls it was like driving on ice, zero traction. Now that the rear end can roll side to side, traction has come up. I switched the rear shocks to some RC18T front shocks i have for another project. Sadly, i have no local track so i can only test on local parking lots and tennis courts. I might have to make a few road trips to test this thing out.
The difference in handling is like night and day. My litmus test is the street in front of my house. If a car can maintain any semblance of traction there, it should do pretty good on a prepared track with some tire sauce.
Prior to the pivot balls it was like driving on ice, zero traction. Now that the rear end can roll side to side, traction has come up. I switched the rear shocks to some RC18T front shocks i have for another project. Sadly, i have no local track so i can only test on local parking lots and tennis courts. I might have to make a few road trips to test this thing out.
I also changed the front end to use RC10/RC12 wheel mounts. I added two tweek screws to the rear of the radio tray. This made a big difference in steering response and traction.
Any chance of getting a copy of your CNC drawing?
04-07-2009, 12:20 AM
#18
Calling all pan car dudes in the Los Angeles area. I am trying to get a core of guys that want to run pan cars at least once a month at Crystal Park Raceway. At the moment we meet for racing the 3rd Saturday of the month. I want to push for the pro 10 class but willing to go World GT if the majority rules. The track as you will see is a nice big track and would be ideal for Pro 10. Currently I am running Novak 3.5r, lipo. But again as stated I can easily swap to a 10.5 or 17.5 for World GT. Let me know if you are in the area and see if we can meet up any weekend for practice before racing.
Flyer
Here are some recent pictures of the track and of my car:
One of the nitro guys I see at the track running an electric touring car
Flyer
Here are some recent pictures of the track and of my car:
One of the nitro guys I see at the track running an electric touring car
04-25-2009, 10:37 AM
#19
Tech Initiate
Very well done! I like what you did for replacing the Bolink shocks (which are very poor.) I am in the process of dusting off my old Eliminator. I converted it to the single shock using a RC10 shock.
I also changed the front end to use RC10/RC12 wheel mounts. I added two tweek screws to the rear of the radio tray. This made a big difference in steering response and traction.
Any chance of getting a copy of your CNC drawing?
I also changed the front end to use RC10/RC12 wheel mounts. I added two tweek screws to the rear of the radio tray. This made a big difference in steering response and traction.
Any chance of getting a copy of your CNC drawing?
Also, I was wrong about what I did to my front end. It still has the Bolink front end.
Please...please...please...
04-25-2009, 05:54 PM
#21
@ 2Slow-- you'll have a PM shortly
@Tallyrc-- I actually send the files and materials to my brother in Indiana. He has a CNC router table which works fine for what i'm doing in fiberglass. If you want i'll ask him what he has but it's primarily used for his business of custom engraving wood products. If you do track down a good desktop CNC let me know. I'm interested as well.
www.engraversoflight.com
Sadly he was right in the middle of my Bolink Legends project when the bit snapped. Now we're waiting on a new end mill to get back on track.
@Tallyrc-- I actually send the files and materials to my brother in Indiana. He has a CNC router table which works fine for what i'm doing in fiberglass. If you want i'll ask him what he has but it's primarily used for his business of custom engraving wood products. If you do track down a good desktop CNC let me know. I'm interested as well.
www.engraversoflight.com
Sadly he was right in the middle of my Bolink Legends project when the bit snapped. Now we're waiting on a new end mill to get back on track.
04-25-2009, 07:32 PM
#22
about twice a year i look into it and dream of the posibilities.. one of my favorite sites is nyccnc.com.. this guy is/was an engineering student in a nyc apartment and started with a taig desktop machine.. now he has a full blown machine shop in his spare room.. brings out the geek in me.. lol
04-28-2009, 12:08 PM
#23
Tech Initiate
04-29-2009, 09:51 AM
#26
While this is true about lowering the CG, having the weight in the middle is going to really improve the cars ability to quickly transition from left to right instead of having the cells way out on the outboard plates. Plus, 4 cell saddle packs DO suck - I'm running them in my TC and always worry about them shorting against each other.
04-29-2009, 10:25 AM
#27
Great point! The car transitions excellently. I really need to get this back on the track to fine tune the rear shocks. I need to get some springs front and rear to REALLY tune this thing. I've been getting my VTA car ready the past few weeks and working on two other projects.
04-29-2009, 02:27 PM
#28
Tech Initiate
Great point! The car transitions excellently. I really need to get this back on the track to fine tune the rear shocks. I need to get some springs front and rear to REALLY tune this thing. I've been getting my VTA car ready the past few weeks and working on two other projects.
06-16-2009, 12:08 PM
#29
Tech Initiate
what does your rear axle look liek and how is it assembled? My wheel keep coming off and causes the gears to be off. How do you make it so both are aligned and are taking the power?
sorry if I sound vague..
sorry if I sound vague..
06-16-2009, 12:09 PM
#30
Tech Initiate
also where did you get those linkage rods for the front wheels to servo?