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Old 10-22-2009, 11:55 AM   #1216
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I'm in the process of building my Cup Racer and I was wondering on tires too. I see that I need to add/remove a plate front and rear for 54mm tires instead of the stock ones.

Does HPI make any good race tires for the stock rims?

I see Atomic's were posted as being good. Where do you get them and do I need a different set of wheels for them? Part numbers/links appreciated

Anyone else make good ones?

Thanks!
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Old 10-22-2009, 12:48 PM   #1217
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http://store.hkshobby.com/ and also RCmart I think. They have the rims too. ABChobbyusa rims and tires will fit also.

Do not use the chassis spacers with these rims/tires
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Old 10-23-2009, 03:47 PM   #1218
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Originally Posted by devilchrist View Post
Looks like this car has more suspension travel, and only limited by shocks.

Anyone know if there are other cars that I can swap out the shocks with to get more travel?

thinking of converting it in to rally. think,.. porsche rally. haha
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Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
actually there is more limiting the suspension travel then just the shocks...gotta remember if you give the car TOO much travel, the CVD will not fit correctly into the diff out drives...

try removing those 'plates' from under the front and rear diff cars - that will raise the chassis and give you more ride height...also back out the screws in the suspension arms that act as the 'downstops' - that will also give you a good chunk more of suspension movement..

but if you are going to make it into a rally setup, definitely go with a standard TC shock - you don't need anything super long, just a standard shock like you'd see on a cyclone, Sport2, tc5 etc, and those will DEFINITELY give you more ground clearance..

I do believe that if you remove the downstop on the suspension arms and the lowering plates under the diff houses, you'll get what you are looking for I did it on mine, and was suprised how much clearance I had - then i lowered everything back down to a 'race level' ride height
I'm also converting my Cup Racer for rally use, maybe I can shed some light on this. The main limiting factor in your ride height is in fact the shocks. Even if you shave down the little lips under the diffs on the lower chassis plate and set the limiter screws on the control arms, you'll still find that the overall length of the shocks is what is limiting suspension travel. Try doing the adjustments mentioned by the poster above with and without the shocks attached and you'll see that you are capable of about a extra cm of travel without the shocks installed.

The first thing I did was switch the front shocks to lay down type using the longer ball cup ends provided with the kit. Going longer than stock with the stand up setup makes the bodies rub up against the front diff case. At first I used the two extra ball ends on the rear as well but the longer shaft on the stock body allowed for almost no suspension travel. I may try shortening and tapping the spare ends and seeing if that helps but the main thing to do at this point is get the HPI threaded shock bodies mentioned on the last page. These allow for up to 55mm of length and will not only give you what you're looking for but will also be easier for returning to on road use by simply switching tires and adjusting the nuts on the shocks. You'll also want to remove the vertical rods that run perpendicular to the chassis connecting the upper and lower front control arms. I assume these were put on there for added front stability for applications like drifting but the car seems to handle fine both on and off road without them. Also, a lighter weight shock oil would help but I'm not sure what to suggest as I'm still testing this setup.

The next thing I did, and I'm surprised more people don't do this already, was switch over to touring car wheels. They fit like a glove and only requite a bit of adjustment to the body mount height and a tiny bit of trimming on the wheel wells to fit. I gotta say the car looks MUCH better with the wheel wells filled. I got a set of four HPI wheels and put rally tires on the rear and high grip radials up front with soft foam. Again this is a testing setup, I plan on trying a bunch of different tire combinations, namely the Tamiya Rally Block tires for the DF03-RA.

At this point you'll have a ton of suspension travel available but once you go too high you'll notice that the CVDs start binding with the outdrives. This is a problem I'm yet to address but I plan on shaving them down with the dremmel to see if that helps.

Finally, and perhaps most importantly, you'll need to seal the gear cover, the stock one will get your mesh looking like a grenade went off in there if even a tiny bit of dirt or rocks gets in. The only fool proof method I've found so far is wrapping the entire gear enclosure behind the motor very carefully with electrical tape. If anyone else had a better method of doing this I'd love to hear it.

I'm also planning on doing a rally Porsche and am actually picking up my HPI Carerra body today from the LHS. I'm gonna do it up like a 70's Porsche rally car with a light bar on the bonnet to compliment the LEDs I already installed. We drive our rally cars and trucks at night through the city so tons of lighting is necessary for both navigation and orientation.

I'm taking mine bashing this afternoon at the park where i run my SCTs to see how it handles the terrain. I'll keep you posted with the progress of the project and post pictures if you're interested.
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Old 10-23-2009, 08:21 PM   #1219
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thanks mike. I'll use yours as a baseline and tinker with it from there.

James. I had really good amount ground clearance once I got the plates removed and 10 scale tires/wheels put in.

would love to see how much more ground clearance you have with your setup though
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:29 AM   #1220
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Default 10 scale tires/wheels

Hi,

could someone put some part numbers of 10 scale tires/wheels for carpet/asphalt which are suitable for Cup Racer. I am new to this so it would be very helpful :-) Thank you!
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:51 PM   #1221
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i can't say since my front knuckle broke first day I ran it on carpet. all I know is that stock tires SUCK on carpet, even with paragon

Anyone try a mini servo on this car? doesn't seem like this car needs a whole lot of power for steering servo.

I want to make it as light as possible. Plan on running 3s 2200mah 30C lipo with 30A ESC lightest motor I can find. I really dont' see this car needing a 540 series motor.
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Old 10-30-2009, 07:02 AM   #1222
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Default HPI MX60 SLICK TIRE S

Is anyone using HPI MX60 SLICK TIRE S? how is it compare to type M (stock kit tires)? thanks.
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Old 10-30-2009, 10:16 AM   #1223
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Is anyone using HPI MX60 SLICK TIRE S? how is it compare to type M (stock kit tires)? thanks.
i'm not sure anyone has tried them yet...the "S" is for Soft (duh, I know) and a lot of people are complaining that the "M" tires are too soft to begin with and you need a harder tire

I do know on parking lot, the stock 'm' tires wore fairly quickly, but I don't think they lost ANY grip whatsoever...

I'd say unless your running on carpet, you might wanna stick with the 'm' tires
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Old 10-31-2009, 12:47 AM   #1224
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I just orded a second Cup racer!
The first one is the AE86 drift kit and now i orded the 240z.
This one will be an 210 touring car with my Porsche bodie.
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:41 AM   #1225
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Default Cup Racer on slick concrete

Hello!
I am new to the Cup Racer world, having just purchased the RSR.

I have used the search engine, but didn't come up with exactly what I was looking for, so I will give this thread a shot. I would like to set up a small track in my garage this winter to run cup cars (just using some small corner dots)

1. Is anyone running on "slick concrete" and if so, what type of tire would you use?
2. I can basically clean the floor, but putting down any "sticky stuff" is not an option.
3. Where do you get the cool orange plastic corner dots?
4. Any recommendations for motor/gearing for a smallish track would be helpful.

Thanks!
-Ryan
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Old 11-01-2009, 04:52 PM   #1226
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Questions?? NEED HELP BAD......

Okay, i have the 510 cup racer. The problem im having is comming out of turns, on power, the rear want to break traction and come around. This is very frustrating. I run on a high bite pavement track. The car is stock set-up. I moved the rear shocks to the middle hole and didn't help. I even went to the "silver spring in the front diff and that help a bunch. Still does it but not as much as it did before i changed the diff spring. Any advise would help.

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Old 11-01-2009, 05:37 PM   #1227
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Originally Posted by BIG DADDY8 View Post
Okay, i have the 510 cup racer. The problem im having is comming out of turns, on power, the rear want to break traction and come around. This is very frustrating. I run on a high bite pavement track. The car is stock set-up. I moved the rear shocks to the middle hole and didn't help. I even went to the "silver spring in the front diff and that help a bunch. Still does it but not as much at it did before i changed the diff spring. Any advise would help.
are you running stand-up or lay-down front shocks?? If you're running stand-up, lay the shock on the inner most hole, that will make the fronts 'harder' and force more weight on the rear shocks....you can also try standing the rears all the way out (outter most hole), this 'softens' the rear shock

i gotta look at mine again, but i know i was running the hardest of the option springs in the front, and the softest rear spring - but then did a little 'experimenting' and was able to go the blue spriings in the front and grey in the rear....i'll try to go over mine and give you the setup - i think it worked really well
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Old 11-01-2009, 06:54 PM   #1228
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Im running the laydown shocks. I was told the stand up made the car more touchy. I have the springs on it that came with the kit, copper on the front and gold on the rear. What would it do to the handling if i put the gold springs in the front also? I know there alot stiffer than the copper. Would changing the shock pistons do anything? It calls for the 2 holes all the way around.
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:15 PM   #1229
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Paragon is a good choice but the stock tires are your main culprit. Get you some good race slicks. The Atomic tires are working great for me along with their inserts. HPI X pattern might be ok as long as they are belted and have a good compound mix.

Front,
pink spring
70wt oil
3 hole piston
hpi shock tower outer hole
spacer under upper inner links
heavy spring in the diff
lower inner hinge pins angled up (anti dive)
5mm ride ht
1 deg camber

Rear,
Gold spring
30wt oil
3 hole piston
hpi shock tower inner hole
upper inner link in lower hole
medium tight diff
stock lower inner hinge mount
5mm ride ht
1.5deg camber
2.5 rear toe

Remove the sway bars until you feel your car is dialed. Once the car is working perfect you can then add sway bars. I never use them though.
Long wheel base= more stable (pushy)
Short wheelbase = quick turn in (twitchy mid corner)
Exotek mini wing- a must
CRX chassis = DIALED!


Good luck! Mike
Worth repeating... it's a winning set up...
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:18 PM   #1230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG DADDY8 View Post
Okay, i have the 510 cup racer. The problem im having is comming out of turns, on power, the rear want to break traction and come around. This is very frustrating. I run on a high bite pavement track. The car is stock set-up. I moved the rear shocks to the middle hole and didn't help. I even went to the "silver spring in the front diff and that help a bunch. Still does it but not as much as it did before i changed the diff spring. Any advise would help.
Not enough rear toe, needs a little more front droop. Possibly also front shocks under sprung/ rear shocks over sprung.
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