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Old 08-02-2009, 12:08 PM   #946
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I would say try whatever you can get within your price range...HOnestly, there isn't MUCH of a difference in lipo packs...The higher the mAh the longer (essentially) you'll be able to run between charges Just make sure you have an esc that has a lipo cut-off or else you'll damage the pack - and that would suck..

the 'falken' tires in the pics are nothing more then decals on the tires that came in the kit - worse case, they are HPI's Cup Racer drift tires with decals...

what are you planning on doing with your Cup Racer? Race it, drift it, or just bash around with it?
i was just planning on having fun w/ it. not really race it
one more question, what size servo is needed?
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Old 08-02-2009, 12:25 PM   #947
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Standard size servo.
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Old 08-03-2009, 09:00 AM   #948
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I am also curious what the opinions are on lay down vs. stand up. I mounted the shocks and servo mount as lay down. I was thinking the steering will be more realistic and less sensitive.

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Old 08-03-2009, 02:11 PM   #949
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I am also curious what the opinions are on lay down vs. stand up. I mounted the shocks and servo mount as lay down. I was thinking the stering will be more realistic and less sensitive.
I am curiuos of the same thing. What handling differance does it make?
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:33 PM   #950
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was wondering what spray paint you guys recommend for a lexan body? I'm looking for a light blue or cobalt green.

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Old 08-03-2009, 05:14 PM   #951
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was wondering what spray paint you guys recommend for a lexan body? I'm looking for a light blue or cobalt green.
Tamiya PS all the way!! I find it sprays the best.
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Old 08-03-2009, 05:15 PM   #952
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I am also curious what the opinions are on lay down vs. stand up. I mounted the shocks and servo mount as lay down. I was thinking the steering will be more realistic and less sensitive.

I have understood that the car becomes less responsive with the lay-down shocks.
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:15 AM   #953
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what a car,,,just finnished buildin my drift version,,,i love it,,drifting all over the goldcoast,,,Australia
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Old 08-04-2009, 07:07 AM   #954
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I still haven't installed electronics. I am still wondering why my tire to fender flare clearance is so close. Even with negative camber
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Old 08-04-2009, 08:10 AM   #955
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Tamiya PS all the way!! I find it sprays the best.
I agree that the Tamiya does spray the best and most often lays down the best without running or clumping. However I can usually get great results from Pactra as well, or the Testors Custom Laquer System paints. I would just look in all of those brands and find the color that I liked the best.

Do not use regular Testors Enamel model car paint. Only the custom laquer system. It has the orange banner across the can.

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Old 08-04-2009, 11:49 AM   #956
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I still haven't installed electronics. I am still wondering why my tire to fender flare clearance is so close. Even with negative camber
Funny you mention that. I have heard people complain about the same thing. I love the 510 body, but don't want to run it as I do not like the 2 piece body!! I went ahead and purchased a Tamiya Mini Cooper to run in the meantime and I went ahead and bought a set of Tamiya M chassis rims and tires just in case..... I found the overall diameter to be the same between the Tamiya and HPI tires so I think the problem with the stock 510 setup is the fact that the rear rims are 3mm offset. Grab yourself a pair of 0 offset for the rears and it should be fine!!
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Old 08-04-2009, 01:38 PM   #957
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alright, so I'm going w/ the Novak EX 10.5 Extreme Sport Brushless Motor

what esc do u recommend??
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Old 08-04-2009, 01:55 PM   #958
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But the front has clearance issues too. I was thinking of using my friends CNC machine to mill down the plastic hubs that the wheels mount to. Just how to mount the hubs flush on the CNC????? I don't want to change the wheels themselves as I like the staggered look.
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Old 08-04-2009, 02:53 PM   #959
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Originally Posted by speedracer1129 View Post
Funny you mention that. I have heard people complain about the same thing. I love the 510 body, but don't want to run it as I do not like the 2 piece body!! I went ahead and purchased a Tamiya Mini Cooper to run in the meantime and I went ahead and bought a set of Tamiya M chassis rims and tires just in case..... I found the overall diameter to be the same between the Tamiya and HPI tires so I think the problem with the stock 510 setup is the fact that the rear rims are 3mm offset. Grab yourself a pair of 0 offset for the rears and it should be fine!!
FYI: Wheel clearance/size.

All the Cup Racer wheels are available in 0/3/6 offsets to accommodate different bodies etc. We always use the widest offset possible on each body photo shoot to maximize the "realistic" look. For racing etc. we recommend going down to a narrower offset to accommodate body flex and prevent wheel rub.

We will be bringing back the Mini X-Patterns (which are the slightly smaller "standard mini size"). Having run both tire/wheel sizes back to back, the smaller "mini" sized tire/wheels definitely effect the handling and final roll out gearing of the car. The larger tire/wheels tend to be more stable and smoother while the smaller tire/wheels are much more responsive (...also requires a little bit more trigger and wheel control )

Thanks,

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Old 08-04-2009, 03:47 PM   #960
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andy,


I assume you are bring out the belted ones as well???

Also, will these fit the current Cup Racer rim selection or do we have to go to Tamiya wheels??
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