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Old 06-13-2009, 12:48 PM   #616
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I picked up some of the axle cups and am happy to say they are a perfect fit and really free up the driveline. Makes bolting the wheels on feel more secure as well.
that's good to know, Mike - I have a set on order
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Old 06-14-2009, 12:26 AM   #617
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Hey new to this thread but I'm interested in the Traxxas Velineon Brushless System and was wondering if there is anything wrong with that one .I thought it might be the way to go cuz it can take 2 to 3 cells Lipo . Anyways if someone can direct me that would be great.
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Old 06-14-2009, 05:15 AM   #618
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Hey new to this thread but I'm interested in the Traxxas Velineon Brushless System and was wondering if there is anything wrong with that one .I thought it might be the way to go cuz it can take 2 to 3 cells Lipo . Anyways if someone can direct me that would be great.
you can look here - Traxxas Velineon Thoughts? wanna try this as well - http://www.rctech.net/forum/search.php?searchid=5722226 (just a search of the forum for velineon)

but not sure how much info that's gonna give you..

I think most guys in this thread are running silver can motors in their cup racers - I believe less then a handful are running BL in their cup racers..
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Old 06-14-2009, 07:58 AM   #619
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popdada, have you purchased any of these parts? I'm interested in the threaded shock bodies.
just order, let you know when I get it, got everything!
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Old 06-14-2009, 08:15 AM   #620
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just order, let you know when I get it, got everything!
I've gone ahead and placed an order as well, should have them in 'bout a week.
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Old 06-14-2009, 10:55 AM   #621
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I've gone ahead and placed an order as well, should have them in 'bout a week.
On the shock bodies the bottom spacer is too thick. If you screw the bottom cap down too far the thick spacer balloons the o-ring causing it to bind on the shaft. I used blue thread lock on the cap and just tightened it to the point that it touches the o-ring without ballooning it. Pretty smooth shocks if built this way.
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Old 06-14-2009, 02:47 PM   #622
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On the shock bodies the bottom spacer is too thick. If you screw the bottom cap down too far the thick spacer balloons the o-ring causing it to bind on the shaft. I used blue thread lock on the cap and just tightened it to the point that it touches the o-ring without ballooning it. Pretty smooth shocks if built this way.
MikeR,
Thank you for the heads up. I'm shopping for new o-rings anyway, do you think another size o-ring may work better with this shaft? And on a side note, I've been keeping my eye on HPI's site constantly, waiting for the hop up to become available. Seeing that I'm a born again newbie, how's it that the after market producers are able to make it to market before the original manufacturer? I'd like to give HPI the business but is it worth the wait?
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Old 06-15-2009, 07:34 PM   #623
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Built my Cup racer, didn't find a place to run it so now its for sell.
It's completely built with a metal gear servo.
I put LED head and tail lights in it.
Anybody got an idea of what its worth?
Datsun 240Z painted green body.
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:11 AM   #624
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MikeR,
Thank you for the heads up. I'm shopping for new o-rings anyway, do you think another size o-ring may work better with this shaft? And on a side note, I've been keeping my eye on HPI's site constantly, waiting for the hop up to become available. Seeing that I'm a born again newbie, how's it that the after market producers are able to make it to market before the original manufacturer? I'd like to give HPI the business but is it worth the wait?
I would still stick w/ the stock o-rings.
I scratch my head on that too. Seems some after market parts come out even before the kit is released haha. Maybe someone borrowed a sample car at a magazine shoot and laser scanned some of the parts It's really pretty easy duplicating parts. Coming in with a redesigned part is much more time consuming.
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:00 AM   #625
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I am having trouble with my rear diff. It is binding for some reason. I followed the instructions precisely. When I turn it it spins free until about 3/4 of the way through the revolution. Then it binds. There doesn't seem to be any problems with the gears. As I start to tighten the screws that connect each half of the diff case, it gets worse.
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:15 AM   #626
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I would still stick w/ the stock o-rings.
I scratch my head on that too. Seems some after market parts come out even before the kit is released haha. Maybe someone borrowed a sample car at a magazine shoot and laser scanned some of the parts It's really pretty easy duplicating parts. Coming in with a redesigned part is much more time consuming.
For those interested hobbyetc.com also has hop ups and "great" response time. I ordered on Saturday and had my parts in hand on Monday. I've got the a/m shock on and I did not have the binding issues with the o-rings so I'm good on that issue, night and day with the difference, much, much smoother and stable dampening.

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Old 06-16-2009, 08:32 AM   #627
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I am having trouble with my rear diff. It is binding for some reason. I followed the instructions precisely. When I turn it it spins free until about 3/4 of the way through the revolution. Then it binds. There doesn't seem to be any problems with the gears. As I start to tighten the screws that connect each half of the diff case, it gets worse.
five&dime, I did not experience that issue with my model, no dis intended. Perhaps some of the more elite that post here may have some advice....
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Old 06-17-2009, 07:08 AM   #628
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Figured it out. The bearing for the internal small spline gear in the front diff is bad. I cannot get the gear off so I just ordered two more bearings and two more gears just in case
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Old 06-17-2009, 08:40 AM   #629
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i love speed and i have finally got this car up to 48mph and actually go staight
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Old 06-17-2009, 12:49 PM   #630
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i love speed and i have finally got this car up to 48mph and actually go staight
Nice! What electronics are you running? In particular I'm wondering how well the 3 plastic nipple thingies (85281-10) hold up to high horsepower motors.

I have to admit I''m thinking about selling my CR for a M05 Pro or trading it for a TT01 and do the 3Racing mini conversion. Or maybe just wait for all the goodies to become more available for the CR.
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