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Old 05-05-2009, 11:10 AM   #406
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last thing HPI rep said on here was they were just waiting for the decals that go in the bag for the 510, so i guess those will be out shortly.
parts support really is a big point when buying any kit, with the cupracer i dove in knowing its a new product and parts will not be too far behind, i am tempted at getting a genetic kit since the LHS i frequent carries parts for them, only thing setting me back is the choice between a genetic kit or the new 08 tamiya DF-03RA rally kit and i cant afford both at the same time.
...hmmm

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Old 05-05-2009, 11:15 AM   #407
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AndyH, bodies are nice, we need parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 05-05-2009, 11:40 AM   #408
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...hmmm

Andyh - Where can I get the 510 Body and how much?
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:25 PM   #409
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Freeway - the DF-03RA is nice looking kit. By far the best looking rally kit, in my opinion. I'm really thinking of getting one. Not sure if it can handle a true off-road track built for 1/8 and 1/10 scale truggies and buggies with big jumps. Have you test driven one?
havent tried one yet, just got back from the LHS and ordered the DF-03RA 2008, getting it in a week. fingers crossed

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...hmmm

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AndyH, bodies are nice, we need parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

510 is coming !!!
+11tymillion on parts andy
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:40 PM   #410
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I finally ran my cup racer at my local track. It wasn't too noisy at all and actually ran like my old Pro4. Suspension seems to be on the soft side especially for the front laydown shocks if you built them as per instructions. Tires give good grip but are on the soft side. I've encountered oversteer with the stock settings. I tried touring car tires to see if the kit tires affected handling and there was still too much steering. I will replace the front spring (soft copper) with the harder silver that came with the kit to see if there will be any difference. I also plan to try out a combination of Tamiya mini tires to see if they work better.

There isn't much one can do by way of setup for now. Perhaps when the hop-ups arrive? Meanwhile, does anyone have a good baseline setup already? I'd like to take out most of the guess work and just have fun running this kit.
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:47 PM   #411
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I dont have this car yet, but I am planning on building one. Does anyone have part numbers for the Pro 4 diff and spool? Do they drop right in or do I need the shaft pinion? I would like to have this stuff before I build.
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:48 PM   #412
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I dont have this car yet, but I am planning on building one. Does anyone have part numbers for the Pro 4 diff and spool? Do they drop right in or do I need the shaft pinion? I would like to have this stuff before I build.
this is what i got from linking the part from some post up there


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=HPIC3151&P=K
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:57 PM   #413
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Andyh - Where can I get the 510 Body and how much?
Just made some early production samples, have to send to the licensing guys so they can "approve the packaging"....soon after
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Old 05-05-2009, 04:58 PM   #414
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Just made some early production samples, have to send to the licensing guys so they can "approve the packaging"....soon after
cool - can't wait
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:00 PM   #415
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[QUOTE=freeway;5772929]havent tried one yet, just got back from the LHS and ordered the DF-03RA 2008, getting it in a week. fingers crossed

Nice - I'm sure you will have a blast with the DF-03RA. Please let me know your experiences with the kit once you get it.
thanks
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:38 PM   #416
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[QUOTE=JS;5773879]
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Originally Posted by freeway View Post
havent tried one yet, just got back from the LHS and ordered the DF-03RA 2008, getting it in a week. fingers crossed

Nice - I'm sure you will have a blast with the DF-03RA. Please let me know your experiences with the kit once you get it.
thanks
i will for sure.
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Old 05-05-2009, 08:50 PM   #417
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Quote:
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AndyH, bodies are nice, we need parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
my LHS just got in a 510 kit today so me and my buddy are swapping bodies
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:36 PM   #418
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Some tips for building:

1. The steering plate that is put on the knuckle is placed on the bottom side with the ball end on facing up. With this, you will get some bump out. Found out that if you install this upside down (plate on top, ball facing down) you get neutral steering.

2. The screw that holds the center shaft cup on the spur side. (see pic)
This NEEDS to have locktite on and securely tightened down. (don't over tighten). This tends to come loose, and if it does, it may damage your bevel gears.

3. don't over tighten the wheel screw. Unlike the TC counter part, you will create binding if you do. Just tighten enough to keep it snug.
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HPI Cup Racer 1M-cupracer01.jpg  
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:42 PM   #419
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
Some tips for building:

1. The steering plate that is put on the knuckle is placed on the bottom side with the ball end on facing up. With this, you will get some bump out. Found out that if you install this upside down (plate on top, ball facing down) you get neutral steering.

2. The screw that holds the center shaft cup on the spur side. (see pic)
This NEEDS to have locktite on and securely tightened down. (don't over tighten). This tends to come loose, and if it does, it may damage your bevel gears.

3. don't over tighten the wheel screw. Unlike the TC counter part, you will create binding if you do. Just tighten enough to keep it snug.

Thanks for the tips.

I received a bad part in my kit, PN 86194. There were no notches in it to match up with the bevel gear on the opposite side, and if I tightened it down the assembly was hard to rotate. HPI is sending a replacement but I have to wait 5 business days. . Anyone else get bad or defective parts?
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Old 05-06-2009, 02:04 PM   #420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbones View Post
Some tips for building:

1. The steering plate that is put on the knuckle is placed on the bottom side with the ball end on facing up. With this, you will get some bump out. Found out that if you install this upside down (plate on top, ball facing down) you get neutral steering.

2. The screw that holds the center shaft cup on the spur side. (see pic)
This NEEDS to have locktite on and securely tightened down. (don't over tighten). This tends to come loose, and if it does, it may damage your bevel gears.

3. don't over tighten the wheel screw. Unlike the TC counter part, you will create binding if you do. Just tighten enough to keep it snug.
great tips, gonna have to redo those bits
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