HPI Cup Racer 1M
#3301
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
My cup racer is apart for odd grinding noises in the rear. Also it keeps letting the right-rear drive loose at the hub. Has a Lancia body on it, so I assume that takes a toll on its reliability :-D *
*Daily drove a Lancia Scorpion for years. Great car once previous owners 'improvements' were removed.
*Daily drove a Lancia Scorpion for years. Great car once previous owners 'improvements' were removed.
#3302
Do you have the upgraded metal hub piece where the drive shaft connects to the diff?
It's been awhile since I've driving my CR (been focussed on other cars). But the stock piece is a 3 pronged plastic piece that has a tendency to break. When it does you'll have loss of power as the drive won't be engaging the diff (front or rear, same design) ...and you will have grinding noise. The metal replacement piece solves this.
Regardless you'll need to remove the top portion of the CR chassis, drive shaft and front and/or rear diff to find out what is going on. If you hvaen't replaced that plastic hub piece that would be my bet.
It's been awhile since I've driving my CR (been focussed on other cars). But the stock piece is a 3 pronged plastic piece that has a tendency to break. When it does you'll have loss of power as the drive won't be engaging the diff (front or rear, same design) ...and you will have grinding noise. The metal replacement piece solves this.
Regardless you'll need to remove the top portion of the CR chassis, drive shaft and front and/or rear diff to find out what is going on. If you hvaen't replaced that plastic hub piece that would be my bet.
#3303
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Do you have the upgraded metal hub piece where the drive shaft connects to the diff?
It's been awhile since I've driving my CR (been focussed on other cars). But the stock piece is a 3 pronged plastic piece that has a tendency to break. When it does you'll have loss of power as the drive won't be engaging the diff (front or rear, same design) ...and you will have grinding noise. The metal replacement piece solves this.
Regardless you'll need to remove the top portion of the CR chassis, drive shaft and front and/or rear diff to find out what is going on. If you hvaen't replaced that plastic hub piece that would be my bet.
It's been awhile since I've driving my CR (been focussed on other cars). But the stock piece is a 3 pronged plastic piece that has a tendency to break. When it does you'll have loss of power as the drive won't be engaging the diff (front or rear, same design) ...and you will have grinding noise. The metal replacement piece solves this.
Regardless you'll need to remove the top portion of the CR chassis, drive shaft and front and/or rear diff to find out what is going on. If you hvaen't replaced that plastic hub piece that would be my bet.
It's finally time for that teardown :-)
Shocks also need a rebuild. I've put quite a few miles on this as my basher, so much fun. Too bad Mini racing is dead in my area, fun class.
#3304
If you haven't torn down and checked your diff's in awhile I'd go ahead and do it. I am a bit insane, but I rebuild the shocks (mostly just taking apart, clean, refill and re-calibrate) after every race day OR every 3 to 4 bash sessions. As for Diff's I usually tear those down at the end of every race season unless there is some reason to do so sooner. For bashing as soon as I sense or hear issues I tear it down.
I don't think the metal hub pieces came in sets, I think they are sold individually and are about $9 each. Since that part is prone to break, they may have just replaced the one broken piece? Hard to tell until you get it apart. ...but yes you can get a glimpse of them when everything is together.
Sorry to hear that the mini class is dead in your area. It is very much alive in my area, we have anywhere from 5-15 contestants each race day in the mini class, ...usually about 8-11 entrants. Although we only race Tamiya Mini's in our class. I did race my CR for 2 seasons, but "open" mini class didn't have enough entrants ...yet looks like there is more interest again so I may bring my CR out of retirement?
okay, let me know what you find after you take it all apart.
I don't think the metal hub pieces came in sets, I think they are sold individually and are about $9 each. Since that part is prone to break, they may have just replaced the one broken piece? Hard to tell until you get it apart. ...but yes you can get a glimpse of them when everything is together.
Sorry to hear that the mini class is dead in your area. It is very much alive in my area, we have anywhere from 5-15 contestants each race day in the mini class, ...usually about 8-11 entrants. Although we only race Tamiya Mini's in our class. I did race my CR for 2 seasons, but "open" mini class didn't have enough entrants ...yet looks like there is more interest again so I may bring my CR out of retirement?
okay, let me know what you find after you take it all apart.
#3305
-----this was a double post----
#3307
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Okay, I found one in my LiPo collection that will work, although it is a 3s... It fits and I think I'll rock it!
It's a Nano-tech 3300 mAh, 3s. I was planning to run my Traxxas VLX 3500kv system and ESC on it, but the motor is a tight fit, and the ESC is on the larger size.
I test fitted a Tekin Redline Gen2 13.5T that may make this car scream on a 3s
3s 3300mAh LiPo
General Mock up of the parts
13.5 Turn
Too Much?
It's a Nano-tech 3300 mAh, 3s. I was planning to run my Traxxas VLX 3500kv system and ESC on it, but the motor is a tight fit, and the ESC is on the larger size.
I test fitted a Tekin Redline Gen2 13.5T that may make this car scream on a 3s
3s 3300mAh LiPo
General Mock up of the parts
13.5 Turn
Too Much?
#3310
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
*I say sublime cuz it just handles a lot better than my old Sprint 2. Which was secondhand, who knows maybe it was messed up internally and I didn't know it.
#3311
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
I like the cup's sublime handling* so I'm lifting the SpeedPassion 21.5 from my ex-racer. Smooth, sensored and no worries. A little 2S leftover from my Vaterra which fits great with some velcro in the battery compartment (put toward the aft cuz it's short).
*I say sublime cuz it just handles a lot better than my old Sprint 2. Which was secondhand, who knows maybe it was messed up internally and I didn't know it.
*I say sublime cuz it just handles a lot better than my old Sprint 2. Which was secondhand, who knows maybe it was messed up internally and I didn't know it.
I may follow your lead with a 21.5 as well. I just installed a 21.5 in my VTA build. From what I've seen, that's fast enough for this cup racer.
#3312
I have a 17.5 for this if i can find a used one online. Anyone know if these things drift well?
#3313
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Not a bad plan... This car should be set up for the fun scale aspect of it, not land speed records, we have other rigs for that
I may follow your lead with a 21.5 as well. I just installed a 21.5 in my VTA build. From what I've seen, that's fast enough for this cup racer.
I may follow your lead with a 21.5 as well. I just installed a 21.5 in my VTA build. From what I've seen, that's fast enough for this cup racer.
#3314
-getting my CR'r dusted off for its first racing season in about 5 years. ...our club is opening up an "open mini" class.