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Old 05-01-2012, 12:11 PM   #2911
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One more "dumb" question - do the drift tyres get glued to the rims like I do with rubber?
there's no "dumb" question. however, you won't need any glue for drift tires.
have fun! Zavo
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:27 PM   #2912
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just a quick question? will i be able to race this car in the usvt class?
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:20 AM   #2913
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there's no "dumb" question. however, you won't need any glue for drift tires.
have fun! Zavo
OK, great, will put them on and let her rip!!!!

Thanks
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Old 05-02-2012, 10:20 AM   #2914
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just a quick question? will i be able to race this car in the usvt class?
Do you mean the USVTA Class?
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:34 PM   #2915
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Do you mean the USVTA Class?
sorry yes usvta
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:45 AM   #2916
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Default racing a cup racer

hi guys, I got a Cup Racer but my local club doesn't allow it to race against the minis since the minis are limited to tamiya chassis 2wd, and well, lets be honest, the CR outspecs the m chassis. I could in theory take it into the "stock" 1/10 touring car but I fear it may not be competitive. This brings me to some questions:

- can I put the bits and pieces on a longer chassis board to achieve the wheelbase of a touringcar 1/10? or will 225 with one of those mini touring car bodies do the trick?

- at it's widest setting the car just gets 190mm width with offsets, should I get 1/10 size wheels? My stock tt01 is 188mm with LRP Vtecs ... If so, what does this do to my FDR/Gearing?

- Our stock class runs 23 turns brushed with 2s lipos in 7 minute heats. I guess trial and error, but any of you guys melting your ball diffs in this type of setup? ( should I clean off that molybdenum grease off the thrust bearings?)

Maybe its a waste of time but I really like the CR and don't want to just shelve it because we don't have a class that suits it and I find the tt01 a little uninspired to race (my current stock car)
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Old 05-18-2012, 07:51 AM   #2917
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You may have to search through this thread for a while, but I do remember seeing something about a chassis that would get the CR to standard touring car dimensions.
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:51 AM   #2918
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One more "dumb" question - do the drift tyres get glued to the rims like I do with rubber?
Sorry, I haven't been on this site for a few weeks. NO! Glue nothing! I got a great tip from youtube for mounting drift tires. This guy got a cup of boiling water and dropped the drift tires in for 15 seconds and then got them out with a chop stick. He then snapped them right in. Here is the title of the youtube vid: Easy Steps installing HPI T-drift tires! uploaded by RX03.
This worked like a charm. Some guys go as far as freezing the tires first. Forget that and just check out this video.
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Old 05-24-2012, 04:31 AM   #2919
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THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That is exactly what I needed, guess who's going drifting this weekend!!!
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:48 AM   #2920
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were is i can get the part metal rear diff like picture in post #728 ...

need help please.....
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:43 PM   #2921
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Last week had a hard race, please find a photo of my C/R in action:
HPI Cup Racer 1M-stratos-action.jpg
pit lane:
HPI Cup Racer 1M-stratos-pitlane.jpg
and competitors, far away..
HPI Cup Racer 1M-comp-cupracer.jpg
you may think that I need new body soon. I could agree....
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:59 PM   #2922
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I got a cup racer this past week and I can't get the front diff not to bind once I put it in the case
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:37 AM   #2923
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Hi, did you slide the bearings fully up to the axle? on other hand, a photo could help to better understand ther problem.
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:46 AM   #2924
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I did slide the bearings in all the way after I pulled the diff out again it's the metal gear thats warped
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:59 AM   #2925
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I did slide the bearings in all the way after I pulled the diff out again it's the metal gear thats warped
Have you checked that all the srcews are tight in the assembly of the diff. Maybe that's why it's warped.
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