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Old 09-08-2011, 11:04 AM   #2596
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Originally Posted by Mitchrc View Post
Bah, I just noticed that the Losi Motor is a 550 and that the C Racer takes 540 motors.

ahwell
yeah, thats a bit big.....lol, everything fits snug with 540
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:54 PM   #2597
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They axial motor should work fine. We are running the ABC hobby black can motor. it is 27 turn I think. the car still moves real good. I had a 17.5 speed passion club spec system in the car when I bought it and it seemed to over power what the car had for handling.
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:22 PM   #2598
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Default This forum has been a huge help to me

First off I just want to say thank you to all who have posted in this forum. I started at page 1 and learned a lot. I was very confidant in my purchase of a cup racer after reading all the great advice and positive experience of Cup Racer owners. I ran into a few rough spots during my build and was able to read about someone else with the same issue and a solution to the problem.

Thanks again guys.
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:20 PM   #2599
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after a few runs wiht an 12T EZRun brushless motor I did put the 17T Radon motor (that came with my SC10) into my CR . This one suits the car rather better.

Although I'd like it to have more breaking power... any ideas on that issue? Or got I just used too much to brushless breaks?

as for the front lights: I had to go with normal Pactra Silver paint for the inside of the front lights, as no chrome paint was available to me. Now as this finish isn't reflecting the light of the LEDs too well, I did some research and found some concave LEDs, that do spread the light differently and I like it much more. (I also tried 120 diffuse LEDs, but they weren't as good either.) As soon I can do a decent pic about that, I'll post it.

Last edited by aSab; 09-09-2011 at 12:20 PM. Reason: linguistics :D
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Old 09-10-2011, 07:10 AM   #2600
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@ aSab

What size is that motor from your SC10?

Never mind :P I just found the specs for it.. It's a 540 Motor
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Old 09-10-2011, 07:25 AM   #2601
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The reedy radon is the same motor we use for our spec touring class. It should have way more than enough punch for the cup racer.
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Old 09-10-2011, 12:36 PM   #2602
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Default Concave LEDs

Uhm...if you ever tried to take a good photo of a lamp/lightbulb/flame, expecting a result on the pic the way our eyes see it, you'll know it's kinda hard to do:/

Anyway, my headlamps look something like this. One is a combined HDR image, the other is a simple macro shot.



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Old 09-10-2011, 08:48 PM   #2603
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Does anyone have a set up that works on indoor carpet. My car is set up with 225mm wheelbase and upright front shocks. Also running the gear diff in the front and ball diff in the rear. I cannot get the car to run well. The rear wants to drift. It is like the front is slower than the rear. Any help would be great. Thanks
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Old 09-10-2011, 10:09 PM   #2604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brettweir78 View Post
Does anyone have a set up that works on indoor carpet. My car is set up with 225mm wheelbase and upright front shocks. Also running the gear diff in the front and ball diff in the rear. I cannot get the car to run well. The rear wants to drift. It is like the front is slower than the rear. Any help would be great. Thanks
Rear loose on power or off power?
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:23 AM   #2605
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Mostly on power. But will break free off power as well. I think I need to start over on the car. But if anyone can post up a setup list for the car that would be great.
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Old 09-11-2011, 06:51 PM   #2606
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My current setup using foams on carpet:

Front:

  • HPI carbon shock tower
  • Pink springs
  • 70wt oil
  • Outer shock hole in shock tower
  • 1/2 degree toe out
  • Stock droop
  • 1 degree negative camber
  • Stock rollcenter
  • 5mm ride height
  • Medium tight ball diff
  • No swaybar
Rear:

  • HPI carbon shock tower
  • Gold springs
  • 45wt oil
  • Middle shock hole in shock tower
  • 3 degree toe in
  • Stock droop
  • 1.75 degree negative camber
  • Low rollcenter (upper hole in shock tower for camber links)
  • 5mm ride height
  • Very loose gear diff
  • No swaybar
You might want to try:

  • Lower rear ride height than front
  • More front droop
  • Raise front rollcenter/lower rear rollcenter
  • Harder front springs/softer rear springs
  • Thicker front shock oil than rear
  • Front antidive (front of lower front hinge pins lower than rear) This is not good if the track is bumpy.

Last edited by Sydewynder; 09-11-2011 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Re-word rollcenter recommendation
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:22 PM   #2607
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Thank you sidewynder that was just what I was looking for. I will give it a shot.
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Old 09-12-2011, 03:21 AM   #2608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
My current setup using foams on carpet:
When you say "Foams" do you mean regular 1/10 foams used by Nitro cars or other foams?

thanks
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Old 09-12-2011, 04:24 AM   #2609
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Hi All,

Finally finished my build, a few photos of the finished product for you.

Running the following:-
  • Airtronics MX-3 FHSS 2.4GHz Radio 3-Channel
  • XERUN 2700KV 13_5T RC Sensored BL Motor & 60A ESC ME247
  • Blue Bird (BMS-706) Low Profile High Speed Servo

Found it an interesting build being my first HPI one. Kit had a couple of missing screws, a dodgy gear, instructions were out of date / wrong in a couple of areas, but in the end it came together quite nicely.

Haven't had a good blast with it as yet but will do so next weekend.

Enjoy









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Old 09-12-2011, 05:20 AM   #2610
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Default Lowering Plates

^ Nice ride fritzzz

Do these "Lowering Plates" do anything else than just "lower" ?? I understand that they are used to "lower" the under carriage when using bigger wheel/tire combinations but are they really needed even if you do use bigger wheels/tires?

I am asking this because some some people will most definitely be running their C Racers on tarmac and parking lots where their will definitely be bumps and stones around and some clearance will be needed for both actual clearance and travel.
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