k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

the rims will work on the CR - same standard 12mm hex that all touring cars use...the old HPI rims and the CR tires won't work - different kind of beads on the CR tires, and obivious, the CR rims won't work with old mini tires...if you wanna run the CR rims, you need the CR tires...

the older stuff can run anyone's tires on those rims..

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

-there are a ton of wheel/tire choices for the CR'r, ...you have to look around, ...i've been using some treaded Associated tires that are about 4mm larger in diameter than the stock CR'r tires. ...they're great for asphalt (which is what I race on). you just have to look around at all the R/C sites that sell tires/wheels and make sure they aren't too large/small compared to the stock wheels/tires and that they fit the standard wheel hub size (12mm).

wagon92x

iTrader: (1)

Help!

I'm somewhat new to the hobby, and the Cup Racer is my first car. I was changing my wheels for the first time last night, and I just barely overtightened the screw that holds the wheel in place.

Needless to say, whatever that screw screws into is now stripped, and the wheel won't stay on now!

I've already looked through the manual to determine what part I managed to strip out, but I cant figure it out. Does anyone know what part I need to replace to make my wheel stay on again??

Mr P!nk

iTrader: (1)

It's page 27 of the manual, all that holds the wheel screw on is an M3 lock nut. Are you sure that the lock nut didn't just fall out? Sometimes you can accidentally push the nut out when your trying to screw the wheels back on. Most people put a drop of CA glue on them so they stay in place.

If you did strip it its not a big deal, like I said its just an M3 lock nut.

locked

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure why I even clicked on this thread, I don't own one of these and probably never will. Despite this, I went off to look at the manual online to see if I might solve your problem. I must be bored.

It looks like the screw that holds the wheels on threads into the nut behind the axle. Part #Z676

If the screw looks like it has all it's threads, you probably stripped the hole in the nut.

littlealex

iTrader: (86)

this is my opinion, i find cup racer has little too many parts for first car to build.
pay attention to gears box smoothness same as upper and lower arms.
you may stripped the hex nut in the drive cup. or it could be the flat head bolt that you stripped.
it has rubber o ring so you dont need to tighten it too much.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

There are only 2 parts you could of destroyed by over-tightening your wheel:

Either:
-the M3 lock nut (has a plastic insert in the nut that could have stripped)
-or the actual plastic axel cup that holds the nut, that nut could have stripped the plastic that houses it (on the outside,..the actual axel cup).
yet this is doubtful as the axel cup plastic is pretty hard in comparrison to the M3 lock nuts thin plastic locking strip ...i'd guess you stripped the lock nut.

2 solutions:

1) put a new M3 nut in place (they are super cheap).
or
2) replace the entire axel cup w/ this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-Cup-Racer-al...56846372106959
there is no lock nut as the entire axel cup is threaded, it's a MUCH better design than the stock plastic piece.

the cup racer is a great car. I race against Tamiya "Mini's" -i believe they are the M01-M06 series. ...my car out-handles them all.

I learned early on as your probably learning now, -it's very easy to break parts by over-tightening ...you just want to tighten to the point where it feels snug then back off.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

-wen you find out, let us know what part broke

bud.stiltz

Hi everyone - my first post, & I'm a total noob to RC racing, but I'm planning to start with a cup racer...

Does anyone know if ansen sprint mag-type rims are made that will also fit the cup racer?

-and-

what are the pros & cons of aluminum wheels vs. plastic ones, if any?


Thanks!

littlealex

iTrader: (86)

just make sure the hot racing drive cup has thread in it, i bought a set without thread and its total garbage.

tamiya m series its either front or rear wheel drive. the one you wanna race with is any similar size car that is AWD

oh also get extra rear suspension plate
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Mount-B-Orange

fritzzz

Why so? I don't understand why an extra one is needed...

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

those parts can bend in you wack a front wheel hard enough I did that a couple of years ago in HPI Challenge A-Main for Cup Racers - was running in 2nd or 3rd, wacked a curb and my run was finished

amygal

iTrader: (4)

i need one extra for rear because my rear spin out easily.
it just extra protection.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

A single plate bends really easily if you race... you will want to double them up.

wagon92x

iTrader: (1)

Thanks to everyone that replied to my issue. I definitely plan on getting the aluminum axle cup!

Turns out that the M3 nut had just been pushed back a little. I managed to get the screw to just barely catch a thread while the wheel was off, and then pulled the screw outward the get the M3 nut seated again. Everything works fine again.