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Old 06-14-2011, 09:45 AM   #2491
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..sorry, wasn't trying to offend you or talk down (w/ the FPS lesson).
it is just difficult to get a sense of how fast something is travelling on a YouTube video ..looking at it visually.

You mentioned that you have a 13.5 turn motor w/ a 1500mah nicad pack, and Novak GTB ESC.
do you mean "NiMH", or are you using a nicad? If a nicad, then that battery isn't listed to work w/ that ESC and may be your issue:

here is what the Novak GTB ESC says about input voltage:
2S (Li-Po) / 4-6 cells NiMH (1.2V/cell)

you need to get a li-po or a nimh battery. nimh are less expensive if $$ is an issue. I'd recommend a 4800 or 5000 mah one.

Last edited by eR1c; 06-14-2011 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 06-14-2011, 12:00 PM   #2492
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lol don't worry man no offense taken just saying i know where your coming from i actually like that you explained it most people dont know anything about fps or how it works

i have a new nimh pack on the way thats rated at 6800 mah not sure if thats accurate or not but its on its way i thought the battery pack might be holding me back but its the only pack i have to work with at the moment
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Old 06-14-2011, 03:04 PM   #2493
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doesnt look to bad but somethings can be changed
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Old 06-14-2011, 03:47 PM   #2494
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To get the best out of that 13 turn brushless, you really need to give it a 40C or better LIPO pack, because it can dish up the current much more efficiently and dish up more current than the NIMH can.

The car i currently drive came with a NIMH battery, changing to a 3200 50C Lipo gave me a 3 second per lap speed increase, using the same rtr motor it came with.

The 6800 NIMH will give you much longer run times, but if you are after better lap times, hi rated C lipos are the way to go IMO.
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Old 06-14-2011, 03:57 PM   #2495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonvo View Post
i understand how fps works (took film classes in high school made a few shoryt films etc) but that video is a good representation of how fast it goes
the main reason i ask is my friend has a brushless 2wd slash on 2 s lipos that is 3 times as fast and that just seems backwards to me
the one thing you need to take into consideration is tire diameter, which factors into roll-out..internal gear ratio plays alot into it as well...not as much as roll-out, but a lot

a slash has significantly larger tires - thereby giving it a higher rollout (ie, the amount of ground it covers in 1 revolution of a wheel)

your cup racer has smaller tires - if you put on standard TC wheels, it will go faster assuming you didn't mess with gearing.

that's why when you are running foam tires, you need to constantly be aware of what you're rolling out at - because as the tires get smaller, the car goes slower (assuming no changing of gear ratios)...

plus, what kind of motor does your friend have in his slash? is it the same as what you're running in your CR?
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Old 06-14-2011, 03:59 PM   #2496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonvo View Post
lol don't worry man no offense taken just saying i know where your coming from i actually like that you explained it most people dont know anything about fps or how it works

i have a new nimh pack on the way thats rated at 6800 mah not sure if thats accurate or not but its on its way i thought the battery pack might be holding me back but its the only pack i have to work with at the moment
another thing to consider - lipo's hold their voltage much longer the nimh cells...so over the course of 1 min (for example) a lipo pack may still be sitting at 8.41v whereas your nimh may be down to 8.00v...the longer a pack holds its voltage, the stronger (and faster) it'll run
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Old 06-14-2011, 05:46 PM   #2497
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..Lipo is definitely the way to go,
yet if you already have a 6800MAH NIMH battery on the way try that out. I'd bet that you'll get much better performance than your 1500 NICD, -which isn't even rated for use w/ that ESC you have. I think what you're doing w/ the new battery is a good thing to try.

If that doesn't give you faster performance, you should also check your ESC programming. That ESC has several programmable forward scenarios, ...you may have it programmed to something that isn't allowing full power? -probably not, but worth checking (and it doesn't cost $$).

If your using the standard CR'r tires, i wouldn't worry 'bout that too much. I have a 17turn and my CR'r flies ...whether i use the 60mm CR'r tires or a little larger 64mm sized tires ...doesn't seem to make a noticeable difference for parking lot driving.

i'd go through and recheck your gear mesh, the ESC programming, make sure your motor is in good shape. From the video you shared it looks like your tires are pretty standard size, ..you don't have Clod Buster tires on it or anything! ....the battery seems like a logical place to start (especially since you were using a Nicd when it should be a Nimh or Lipo for that ESC).
Let us know what happens w/ the new battery. I am curious.
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Old 06-14-2011, 05:56 PM   #2498
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my friend just has the stock traxxas brushless system in his slash

i do plan to go lipo later but right now it was easier to get a nimh pack that i already have a charger for then a new lipo pack and $50+ for a charger ive messed with the programming a little so i now have reverse and turned the drag brake off but other then that i havent done much we shall see what a new pack does cause im curious as well
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:39 AM   #2499
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..I installed these aluminum axle cups in my CR'r.

http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-Cup-Racer-al...item3a671837ec

In my last competition one of the rear tires came off in both of the events I competed in. I am wondering if I need to put a little blue loctite on them to keep them snug? ...yet is that the best way to go considering I change tires after each race ...and will be changing tires often ..not sure I want to junk up the threads w/ loctite each time? Anyone else experience this? ...or maybe I just didn't tighten my wheels enough?
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:09 AM   #2500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eR1c View Post
In my last competition one of the rear tires came off in both of the events I competed in. I am wondering if I need to put a little blue loctite on them to keep them snug? ...yet is that the best way to go considering I change tires after each race ...and will be changing tires often ..not sure I want to junk up the threads w/ loctite each time? Anyone else experience this? ...or maybe I just didn't tighten my wheels enough?
Think you don't need loctite, but check the wheels after each race. it is good moment to check the axle, bearings etc. too. Have a good day!
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Old 06-23-2011, 08:29 PM   #2501
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..yeah i usually do check everything, i think i must have forgot to check the wheels after the 1st race.
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:59 PM   #2502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eR1c View Post
..yeah i usually do check everything, i think i must have forgot to check the wheels after the 1st race.
You should not need loctite. The washers are serrated and bite down on the wheels to keep them tight. Just make sure you are tightening them down.

I still have the original hubs. I glued the nut inside the hub so that it wont move in and out on wheel changes. So far so good.
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Old 06-24-2011, 08:35 AM   #2503
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welp, i guess i know what my next r/c car will be....

a question, anyone know for sure if the older HPI mini wheels/tires will fit the new cup racer? offset is the same? I have a few sets and am not too crazy about the 4 spoke wheels...but i love the new hpi cup racer!
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Old 06-24-2011, 08:47 AM   #2504
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i also have this old skool HPI Mini Pajero suv body, it was made for the RS4 mini or nitro mini, anyone know if it will fit the cup racer correctly?




link-->> http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/bodies/7025paj.jpg
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HPI Cup Racer 1M-7025paj.jpg  
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:49 AM   #2505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrackerG View Post
i also have this old skool HPI Mini Pajero suv body, it was made for the RS4 mini or nitro mini, anyone know if it will fit the cup racer correctly?




link-->> http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/bodies/7025paj.jpg
it should, the cup racer has adjustable wheel bases that accomendate all the normal mini wheelbases...the tamiya old skool mini cooper will fit up to the longer wheelbase cars..

best thing - if you can find the wheel base for that body download a copy of the Cup Racer's manual from HPI's site its free and will give you everything you need to know about the chassis
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