HPI Cup Racer 1M

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  • Quote: Whose showing up for CharlieB's Corona Race?
    Sorry Raman 400+mi is too far to drive.
  • @Skottoman

    Very nice bodies!!
  • What you don't have private jet?
  • Quote: What you don't have: private jet?
    Sorry the giant lipo is being charged.
  • Quote: With motor's and esc's being so advanced it's not uncommon for them to get kind of warm. If you play with the timing on your motors at all you will notice them getting warmer. Or even after a good run at the track or during practice.

    That's just my 2 sense Can't wait to see pics of what you come up with and best of luck on the build! It's a great one!Fox
    Hey Fox,

    Fair enough, as i can understand one wanting to take protective measures against thermal issues. Imo those motor heat sinks wouldn't much use thou without using thermal paste.

    I have two CR kits and my first build is going to be standard apart from using the sway bar set, BO13 and BO15 bearings, and the disk rotor - calliper set. The shell is the HPI Mini Cooper, motor is racing 27t stock ( have 4 ), servo is the high torque metal geared HPI SFI-50, esc is a LRP Quantum competition 3, and batts will be matched cells with greater than 3300 nimh capacity. Batt charger is an old but in perfect condition Tekin BC112A. Tyres at the moment are drift and the toe angle at the rear hub carrier is set at zero degrees. Planning to change that later to hard compound HPI slicks and 3 degree rear toe angle once i set all the electronics up to my personal specs. Fwiw, the second build will be pimped out to the max with all the option parts and will be using brushless and lipo tech. Second build will be using the 911 body

    Oh yeah, both setups with be on 2.4 Ghz systems. Might even setup a RC tank smoke unit on the Mini Cooper drifter

    Cheers mate,
    Brad - Sydney
  • any good setup for medium grip asphalt?
    not sure what shock length, spring and oil to use for 17.5 boost
  • TE27 body coming soon for mine, as well as wide wheels. Should have one hell of a fitment going with it when they all come in.....
  • Gd'day All,

    Nothing special, but here's a few pics of my first CR build. As you can see the chassis is slowly progressing. I'm taking my time and the whole build process so far has been immensely enjoyable Anyway enough said, as i have a question that some here might be able to answer...

    In step 19 the 35mm long hex screw ( part # Z419 ), lock nut ( part # Z661 ) and the plastic parts ( part # 85279 - 3 and 85279 - 2 ) significantly limits the front double wishbone suspension arms travel. Is this normal and have much front suspension arm travel is on your CR ?

    Regards,
    Brad - Sydney

  • I just bought a used Cup racer. It has alloy axle shafts. One is bad. I can only find the 4 pack of plastic ones from HPI. Does anyone know who made the alloy ones? Thanks
  • Quote: Gd'day All,

    Nothing special, but here's a few pics of my first CR build. As you can see the chassis is slowly progressing. I'm taking my time and the whole build process so far has been immensely enjoyable Anyway enough said, as i have a question that some here might be able to answer...

    In step 19 the 35mm long hex screw ( part # Z419 ), lock nut ( part # Z661 ) and the plastic parts ( part # 85279 - 3 and 85279 - 2 ) significantly limits the front double wishbone suspension arms travel. Is this normal and have much front suspension arm travel is on your CR ?

    Regards,
    Brad - Sydney

    If you have the nut that's on the bottom set flush to the end of the screw you should not have problems with limited suspension travel though it does look like there's very little freedom of movement. This rod is acts as a steering knuckle stopper only. You can use a shorter threaded screw and nut so it doesn't pass through both upper and lower arms. There's a couple of pics on this thread. Look for MikeR's posts.
  • Quote: I just bought a used Cup racer. It has alloy axle shafts. One is bad. I can only find the 4 pack of plastic ones from HPI. Does anyone know who made the alloy ones? Thanks

    Hot Racing makes these. http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?partnumber=TTS230CH;c=467

    Be careful when you buy as some of them were/are apparently not threaded so you can't screw in the screw that holds the wheel on.
  • The old school BMW body from HPI for the cup racer looks pretty cool. It has similar styling as the Alfa Romeo Guilia GTA.
  • hey scottoman,
    very nice bodies, ...hey how are you mounting the drivers? -it looks like you have different drivers in each car, ...so i am assuming your mounting them to teh bodies and not the CR chasis? I have a bunch of sand scorcher drivers ...i'd love to mount one in my car, ...
  • Right now, I'd have a chance to buy this car for quite cheap (150euros, used 30min)
    I was just wondering, we don't have a touring track in my town, can this car be driven in the driveways etc, sport field rally?
    How big can the ground clearance be with the stock tires?
    I'm just worrying the cars chassis will hit the ground.
    - Never driven a touring car before.
  • Quote: Right now, I'd have a chance to buy this car for quite cheap (150euros, used 30min)
    I was just wondering, we don't have a touring track in my town, can this car be driven in the driveways etc, sport field rally?
    How big can the ground clearance be with the stock tires?
    I'm just worrying the cars chassis will hit the ground.
    - Never driven a touring car before.
    You can run it on asphalt or concrete. Ground clearance can be as high as 6 mm or so. A few have made it into rallye as well

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