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Old 04-04-2011, 04:53 PM   #2266
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Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
Good to hear the Cup Racer can hold its own. Maybe you're just a better driver.

The XRay mini uses touring car sized wheels. It's roll out gives it more straight speed.

Sorry no traction roll issues. I run on carpet with foams so I can't help you with an asphalt setup.
I may become a good driver in the future, right now I'm still a work in progress...

I did some reading, looks like I have to either:
1. Firm up the front
2. Stiffer roll bar up front
3. Change roll centre up front..
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:34 PM   #2267
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Default Tyre wear

Anyone seen their front tyres wear like this? Im wonder if this is indicative of my traction rolls?

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Old 04-05-2011, 03:42 AM   #2268
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Anyone seen their front tyres wear like this? Im wonder if this is indicative of my traction rolls?

This is known as the ring of death. The tire could be just worn thin or there's too much negative camber + too soft of an insert. The tire is folding over on itself. The ring always occurs on the inside.

Btw it looks like from your pic the nut that goes onto the long screw that goes through the upper and lower arms is turned too far in. It limits suspension movement. The outer face of the nut should be flush with the end of screw. This could be part of your roll over problem.
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:45 AM   #2269
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This is known as the ring of death. The tire could be just worn thin or there's too much negative camber + too soft of an insert. The tire is folding over on itself. The ring always occurs on the inside.

Btw it looks like from your pic the nut that goes onto the long screw that goes through the upper and lower arms is turned too far in. It limits suspension movement. The outer face of the nut should be flush with the end of screw. This could be part of your roll over problem.
Front Camber is set to zero. The front camber is not very fine tunable, the change by turning the link is too drastic.. anyone figure out something different?

My initial thought was the insert is too soft. These are the stock CR tyres.. I doubt there is a firmer insert.

I always wondered why the added that long screw on this car.. its to limit up travel?
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:48 AM   #2270
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That death ring is standard issue on Cup Racer tires, which are inconsistent at best. (In my humble opinion, cup racer tires are junk). I suggest getting some Tamiya S-grip tires (and tamiya wheels, HPI rims won't work). They offer 10x the grip, wear like iron, and are cheap.

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Old 04-05-2011, 10:17 AM   #2271
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I actually prefer the Tamiya rims.. Do you run the S grip slicks on all the way around?
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Old 04-05-2011, 10:43 AM   #2272
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Well it looks liked I'm the only one that runs a cup racer at CharlieB's races.. come on guys, more Cup Racers need to show up... there are a lot of people showing up more Mini 4wd, so come on out its fun.

I new to racing and the second heat was the first time I placed in the top 3 and I might add, I managed to do it with 1 body pin left on the car for the last 5 laps LOL. My Alfa body kept popping up during turns and braking, was pretty funny to watch.

The car holds its own against a field of ABC's. There was one Xray mini there that was sick fast on the back straight, luckily his car was not hooking up or else he would have cleaned up. Im definitely going to gear up for the next race, I'm maxed out on the pinion at 42T, so i'm going to go down on the spur maybe a 60 or even 55.

In the amain i started to traction roll again.. any one else experiencing this?
I will be running F1 at the next race (Corona) so I will bring my Cup Racer and join in.
What motor are you running? I'm geared pretty tall with my ABC can motor- I believe 5.1FDR

No traction rolls here. Dump the cup racer rims/tires and run ABC. Less sidewall flex. Make sure you have the electronics as low as you can get it for lower CG. Ditch the chassis spacers too when you get rid of the Cup Racer wheels. Cup Racer wheels are more for show then go
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Old 04-05-2011, 10:59 AM   #2273
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Mike,

Most run the ABC black can. I'm running a ballistic 21.5 and it seems I'm a tiny bit slower on the top end. Last race I ran 42 / 65 which puts me at 3.75 FDR ( using Novagear iPhone app)

What shore ABC tyres Are you running and which insert? Also will the ABC tyres fit Tamiya rims? I run an Alfa Giulia GTA body and own a 1:1 version, so I like to stay true to the correct period panasport rims
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:08 AM   #2274
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Mike,

Most run the ABC black can. I'm running a ballistic 21.5 and it seems I'm a tiny bit slower on the top end. Last race I ran 42 / 65 which puts me at 3.75 FDR ( using Novagear iPhone app)

What shore ABC tyres Are you running and which insert? Also will the ABC tyres fit Tamiya rims? I run an Alfa Giulia GTA body and own a 1:1 version, so I like to stay true to the correct period panasport rims
Stock insert and tires.

Panasport you say?
http://www.abchobbyusa.com/tiresandwheels.aspx
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Old 04-05-2011, 01:02 PM   #2275
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I'll have to get me some of those then. Thanks Mike.

What spur and pinion are you running?

Also on the front suspension, where do you have the nut long screw that goes through both A-arms set.. flush with nut ?
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Old 04-05-2011, 02:14 PM   #2276
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Front Camber is set to zero. The front camber is not very fine tunable, the change by turning the link is too drastic.. anyone figure out something different?

My initial thought was the insert is too soft. These are the stock CR tyres.. I doubt there is a firmer insert.

I always wondered why the added that long screw on this car.. its to limit up travel?
The camber should be adjusted by putting in shims/washers and screwing back together the upper arm pieces tight. You aren't just loosening the screw and backing out the eyelet are you?

I cut molded touring inserts down and glue the ends together with rubber cement to get harder inserts. I agree with other comments that going with other tires and wheels will be a better option.

I think that long screw is just a steering knuckle stop and not to limit up travel. I remember seeing a factory racer's car with a screw just long enough for the knuckle (from the bottom) but doesn't go through the upper arm.

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Nice to see MikeR grace us with his presence in this thread. Have you tried Sweeps tires?
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Old 04-05-2011, 02:26 PM   #2277
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Shim washers? I must have missed that in the manual. This is what happens when you buy a car off someone with no manual. I need to print the PDF instead of viewing it on the computer

I thought you turn the upper arm piece in and out to adjust camber. Didn't realise there are shims for it.

I just ordered the abc tyres. I looked at sweeps, only problem with sweep is they work with their rims only. ABC and Tamiya are the same, so I was told by ABC today.

The grip on the CR tyres is pretty good, the rear S compound wore very evenly.. It's too bad HPI doesn't have firmer inserts. So until then, as Mike said, use them for looks lol.

Sunday I'm going to run at Speedtech RC, however they only run 2 wd, so last night I removed centre shaft, front diff and removed cvs from cups. We'll see how I do against a field M05's
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Old 04-05-2011, 03:13 PM   #2278
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Shim washers? I must have missed that in the manual. This is what happens when you buy a car off someone with no manual. I need to print the PDF instead of viewing it on the computer

I thought you turn the upper arm piece in and out to adjust camber. Didn't realise there are shims for it.

I just ordered the abc tyres. I looked at sweeps, only problem with sweep is they work with their rims only. ABC and Tamiya are the same, so I was told by ABC today.

The grip on the CR tyres is pretty good, the rear S compound wore very evenly.. It's too bad HPI doesn't have firmer inserts. So until then, as Mike said, use them for looks lol.

Sunday I'm going to run at Speedtech RC, however they only run 2 wd, so last night I removed centre shaft, front diff and removed cvs from cups. We'll see how I do against a field M05's
See page 26, step 15 in the manual. The washer used to adjust camber is part z203. The eyelet part in the upper arm has marks that suppose to help identify the degree but they aren't accurate. I use a camber gauge.

Good luck Sunday.
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Old 04-05-2011, 03:25 PM   #2279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
The camber should be adjusted by putting in shims/washers and screwing back together the upper arm pieces tight. You aren't just loosening the screw and backing out the eyelet are you?

I cut molded touring inserts down and glue the ends together with rubber cement to get harder inserts. I agree with other comments that going with other tires and wheels will be a better option.

I think that long screw is just a steering knuckle stop and not to limit up travel. I remember seeing a factory racer's car with a screw just long enough for the knuckle (from the bottom) but doesn't go through the upper arm.

----------

Nice to see MikeR grace us with his presence in this thread. Have you tried Sweeps tires?
Yes, 16mm screw in the upper arm only held in with a nut;


No have not tried the sweeps. I have a bunch of Atomic tires I need to work through first. The Sweeps look nice though so maybe next time.
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Old 04-05-2011, 03:33 PM   #2280
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Good to know.. I always wondered why the car had that screw going through both arms.

The markings on the eyelet are what lead me to say camber is not accurate. I twisted it out and angle changed drastically. Now thanks to you I know about the washers.
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