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Old 01-21-2011, 11:25 AM   #2146
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here are my front pics and my cr setup both front and back use stock droop


front
pink spring with 2mm spacer between top ballstud and tower (spring rubbing upper arm)
1 degree camber
0 toe
3 hole piston
lower inner hinge pins angled up (anti dive)
5mm ride height
heavy diff spring
60wt oil
med soft tire

rear
black spring
1.5 degree camber
3 degree toe
stock tower inner hole
middle hinge pin
5mm ride height
3 hole piston
30wt oil
med tight diff
med soft tires

i really like how cr handle and i can turn down my high point to cruise with minis.
thanks for any suggestion for setting it up
Attached Thumbnails
HPI Cup Racer 1M-cr-001.jpg   HPI Cup Racer 1M-cr-002.jpg  

Last edited by littlealex; 01-21-2011 at 01:13 PM.
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:15 AM   #2147
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Here is my setup from last race. So far its the best I have had and the car handled awesome. I have tried a lot of things on the car so far and this is the best I have got so far for my driving.

I am following the Cup Racer setup Sheet which can be found here so you can under better what I am saying:
http://www.lrp-hpi-challenge.com/aut...upSheet_V3.pdf


Track Type:
- Carpet
- Has Technical and Straight Aways
- Low to Med Traction
- 20*C Temperature (About 72*F)

Front Shocks:
- Lay Down
- 40WT
- 3 Hole Piston
- Gold Spring
- 3.5mm Preload
- 25% Rebound
- Stock Bladder

Rear Shocks:
- 40WT
- 3 Hole Piston
- Black Springs
- 4.7mm Preload
- 25% Rebound
- Stock Bladder

Front Suspension:
- Chassis Spacer
- Middle Roll Center

Rear Suspension:
- 3rd Hole Out on Shock Tower
- Lower Hole on Camber Link
- Middle on Both Front and Rear Rollcenters

Front:
- Gear Diff
- 0mm Wheel Hubs
- 0mm Wheel Spacers
- 5mm Ride Height
- -2* Camber
- Stock Toe Angle
- Arms Level for Droop
- No Sway Bar
- Gold Spring in Gear Diff

Rear:
- Ball Diff
- 0mm Wheel Hubs
- 0mm Wheel Spacers
- 5mm Ride Height
- -3* Camber
- Stock Toe Angle
- Arms Level Droop
- Silver Sway Bar

Caster & Ackermann
- 2nd Hole on Steering
- Caster All the Way Back
- Stock Camber Spacer

Front Tires:
- Medium Compound
- 0 Offset
- Put Traction Compound on 1/3rd of Inside Front Tires for 5 Minutes Before Race

Rear Tires:
- Medium Compound
- +3 Offset
- Put Traction Compound on 3/4 of Inside Rear Tires for 5 Minutes Before Race

Gearing:
- 30T Pinion
- 65T Spur
- FDR 5.28

Electronics:
- RS Pro
- 17.5 Murfdogg Motor
- 0 Endbell Timing
- 2S 40C 4200mah Battery
- 45 Timing Boost Between 3*** and 15*** RPM
- 0 Turbo
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HPI Cup Racer - Murfdogg Synergy 17.5, Tekin RS Pro, 2S 40C 4200mah, DX3R, Sav÷x SC-1251MG Servo
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:46 AM   #2148
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thanks for sharing your setup, i will give it a try.

do you think lay down front shocks would handle better than stand up?
also i m not using chassis spacer, would it make any difference?

Last edited by littlealex; 01-23-2011 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 01-23-2011, 01:58 PM   #2149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlealex View Post
thanks for sharing your setup, i will give it a try.

do you think lay down front shocks would handle better than stand up?
The stand up shocks are the one thing I haven't tried that I plan to in the future. I kinda don't want to touch the setup I have for now because what I came with before was terrible. One of the biggest things that helped the setup I have now was going to softer springs in both the front and back. When I had the hard springs (Pinks Front, Blues Back) the car was very unpredictable and would act different every time. The setup I had now the car is super easy to drive. When I went from my old setup to my current setup I picked up 3 laps in a 6 minute race. I think the reason I was able to pick up so much is because the car was so easy to drive, that I was able to focus more on the track around me and not be surprised every time I go into a corner because I had to put all my attention on my car. When I came up to slower cars I was able to look ahead and plan where I wanted to pass. Instead with my old setup I kinda have to hope for the best that the car is going to act like I think its going to. The only thing that I might want to improve on is my on power steering. It's a minor problem and only affects me in a take a corner a bit wide and I want to quickly get back into my racing line.

What also helped me a lot was playing around with traction compound. I have tried applying the compound for different amounts of time, and location on the tire. And the best I have come up with so far is what I have above.
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Mugen MBX6T - Ninja JX.21 with EB Mods Headbutton, O.S. 2060 Pipe, DX3R, Hitec 7955TG Servos on LiPo
HPI Cup Racer - Murfdogg Synergy 17.5, Tekin RS Pro, 2S 40C 4200mah, DX3R, Sav÷x SC-1251MG Servo
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Old 01-23-2011, 03:23 PM   #2150
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I would like to thank the entire Exotek Team and Company for their support and sponsorship for the 2011 Cups @ Da' Bowl! Awesome prizes and gifts.

My friend and I took 1st and 3rd in the Cup Modify class.

Thanks again!
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HPI Cup Racer 1M-imagejpeg952a.jpg   HPI Cup Racer 1M-imagejpeg953.jpg  
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:17 PM   #2151
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cool, i didnt know people race it at modify class.
i thought 10.5 or 17.5 boosted was too fast already

Last edited by littlealex; 01-24-2011 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:25 AM   #2152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlealex View Post
cool, i didnt know people race it at modify class.
i thought 10.5 or 17.5 booster was too fast already
Modify = Open Class

Not "modify motor" per se. Maybe they should of call it "Super Stock".

I don't think any of the cars ran anything lower than a 17.5T. What makes it modify, is the tires, open speedo and some option parts (Ex: Exotek Cup, Hot Racing, etc). But 17.5T Brushless is the norm.
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:55 AM   #2153
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Quote:
My friend and I took 1st and 3rd in the Cup Modify class.
-Congratulations! -and very nice looking paint schemes on those honda bodies.
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:56 AM   #2154
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cool, we are not running any class like this in vancouver.
i m just running my cr for practice

Last edited by littlealex; 01-24-2011 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:05 PM   #2155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by san. View Post
I would like to thank the entire Exotek Team and Company for their support and sponsorship for the 2011 Cups @ Da' Bowl! Awesome prizes and gifts.

My friend and I took 1st and 3rd in the Cup Modify class.

Thanks again!
Great job guys!

Quote:
Originally Posted by shanty140 View Post
The stand up shocks are the one thing I haven't tried that I plan to in the future. I kinda don't want to touch the setup I have for now because what I came with before was terrible. One of the biggest things that helped the setup I have now was going to softer springs in both the front and back. When I had the hard springs (Pinks Front, Blues Back) the car was very unpredictable and would act different every time. The setup I had now the car is super easy to drive. When I went from my old setup to my current setup I picked up 3 laps in a 6 minute race. I think the reason I was able to pick up so much is because the car was so easy to drive, that I was able to focus more on the track around me and not be surprised every time I go into a corner because I had to put all my attention on my car. When I came up to slower cars I was able to look ahead and plan where I wanted to pass. Instead with my old setup I kinda have to hope for the best that the car is going to act like I think its going to. The only thing that I might want to improve on is my on power steering. It's a minor problem and only affects me in a take a corner a bit wide and I want to quickly get back into my racing line.

What also helped me a lot was playing around with traction compound. I have tried applying the compound for different amounts of time, and location on the tire. And the best I have come up with so far is what I have above.
Very good points Setting up a perfectly handling car takes time and a lot of trial and error. Keep up the good work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by littlealex View Post
thanks for sharing your setup, i will give it a try.

do you think lay down front shocks would handle better than stand up?
also i m not using chassis spacer, would it make any difference?
The lay down shocks system tends to 'deaden' the steering response.

Quote:
Originally Posted by littlealex View Post
here are my front pics and my cr setup both front and back use stock droop


front
pink spring with 2mm spacer between top ballstud and tower (spring rubbing upper arm)
1 degree camber
0 toe
3 hole piston
lower inner hinge pins angled up (anti dive)
5mm ride height
heavy diff spring
60wt oil
med soft tire

rear
black spring
1.5 degree camber
3 degree toe
stock tower inner hole
middle hinge pin
5mm ride height
3 hole piston
30wt oil
med tight diff
med soft tires

i really like how cr handle and i can turn down my high point to cruise with minis.
thanks for any suggestion for setting it up
You might need the option HPI front shock towers so that you are able to move the front shock tops out ward to take away some of the front body roll which generates front grip off power. Try also no sauce on the front tires and moving the front steering link to the farthest hole on the steering knuckle. Make sure the car is balance left to right. I usually have to add 1oz lead to the battery side to balance out the motor.
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A picture with your post, when trouble shooting, will probably get more rctech help than without...
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Old 01-24-2011, 05:02 PM   #2156
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Has anyone tried running a ball diff in both the front and back? After talking with a few more experienced racers they thought it was a little weird there is a gear diff in the front and if you were to run a gear diff most people run one in the back.
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:12 PM   #2157
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whats a good starting point on gearing with 17.5 BL motor?
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:39 PM   #2158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR View Post

......You might need the option HPI front shock towers so that you are able to move the front shock tops out ward to take away some of the front body roll which generates front grip off power.......

+1
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:48 PM   #2159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanty140 View Post
Has anyone tried running a ball diff in both the front and back? After talking with a few more experienced racers they thought it was a little weird there is a gear diff in the front and if you were to run a gear diff most people run one in the back.
Yes I have but I now run a rear gear diff with no spring and a front ball diff.

Couldn't get the rear ball diff loose enough to control on power oversteer without slipping. Looks like a design issue with the metal ring gear and plastic ball cage. One diff ring is rubbing on the metal gear.

Still trying to figure out how MikeR is using the plastic gear from a Hot Bodies car.
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Old 01-25-2011, 12:29 AM   #2160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcracerlol View Post
whats a good starting point on gearing with 17.5 BL motor?
Stock gearing is working for me. I am thinking about using a 31 pinion.
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