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Old 04-12-2009, 02:07 PM   #196
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What is the stock gearing on the Cup Racer?

I'm pretty sure the Cup Racer can handle more than a 19T durability wise, but would make it tough to drive I bet.
Stock is 65/30
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Old 04-12-2009, 02:14 PM   #197
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I am confused too. A good 19T is more like a 10.5BL and WAY faster than a 17.5 unless you have an HPI 19T .

In 1/12 4 cell a 19T is noticably faster than a 13.5 and would dust a 17.5 hands down, only a 10.5 can keep up.
Okay, you seem to have some knowledge of brushed vs brushless motors.
I want the fastest setup I can get without tearing up the car.
HPI recommends a 30 turn brushed motor, but said on the phone I could go a 19 turn brushed motor ( I am guessing a 19 turn motor is faster than a 30 turn?).
I have no idea what the number of turns means. I do not want a brushed motor. I would like to go for a brushless motor/lipo battery setup.
so the real question is which brushless motor should I use. Keep in mind I can only use a 65 or 67 tooth spur, and 25 thru 39 tooth pinion gears.
Thanks
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:27 PM   #198
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OK the lower the number of turns the faster the motor. The higher the number of turns the more torque. This is true of both brushed and brushless. However the numbers are not equivalent. A 27turn brushed motor is considered to have parity with a 17.5 brushless. (at some clubs)

That is assuming you are using the same power supply in both motors.
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Old 04-12-2009, 06:20 PM   #199
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is it true the Tekin RS requires a PC for setup? What ESC's work with both brushless and brushed as well as stock and mod?

Anyways thanks for any help!
The actual answer is yes and no - you can do a lot of programming on-board with the RC esc (well all of the newer tekin esc)...However, if you get the hotwire (PC connector/software), you 'unlock' serveral additional settings that cannot be access at the esc

so yea, you program the RC speedo without a PC - but you get additional parameters if you have access to the tekin HotWire
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:24 PM   #200
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Originally Posted by tc5basher View Post
Here's the issue: The cup racer uses a "ring" which you bolt to the motor.
According to HPI the smallest pinion you can use is a 25 tooth. The available spur gears are 65 and 67 only! Castle reccomends a 18 tooth pinion for my set up, but it won't mesh with such a small spur. You need more like a 87 tooth spur gear. So in order to go brushless i am stuck with a Noval or LRP setup, which is ok, but I need to figure out which motor will work best using a65 tooth spur and any pinion form 25 tooth to 39 tooth.
I really am leanig toward the Novak Havoc system becuase of price (its $80 cheaper). So the real question is which motor to get 21.5,17.5,15,13.5 or?
Who at Castle recommended the 18T? That is quite a significant jump from the stock 30T pinion. Did the Castle rep factor in the smaller diameter wheels of the Cup Racer?

Honestly, I think you will be fine with a 25T pinion. When I ran my 5700kv in my other car, I only geared down a couple of teeth. Motor, ESC, and battery temps were all fine.
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:30 PM   #201
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Who at Castle recommended the 18T? That is quite a significant jump from the stock 30T pinion. Did the Castle rep factor in the smaller diameter wheels of the Cup Racer?

Honestly, I think you will be fine with a 25T pinion. When I ran my 5700kv in my other car, I only geared down a couple of teeth. Motor, ESC, and battery temps were all fine.
ding, ding, ding - we have a winner

don't matter what the 'rep' at castle says - they don't actually drive the car or probably even own one try the stock settings and see what happens...

plus the majority of the gearing that they would 'recommend' are aimed at off-road vehicles - did you mention to the rep that its an on-road car?
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:58 AM   #202
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Who at Castle recommended the 18T? That is quite a significant jump from the stock 30T pinion. Did the Castle rep factor in the smaller diameter wheels of the Cup Racer?

Honestly, I think you will be fine with a 25T pinion. When I ran my 5700kv in my other car, I only geared down a couple of teeth. Motor, ESC, and battery temps were all fine.
Joe Ford. He said I need to be about 10 on the gear ratio.
The final drive is 2.4375.
So If I use a 65/25 thats 2.6 times 2.4375 is a ratio of 6.33 no where near 10.
It would be really cool if I can actually use the castle system, since i already own it.
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:55 AM   #203
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10 sounds like an offroad buggy ratio for those motors.

Offroad buggies have bigger tires, touring cars have smaller ones and minis (like the cup racer) have even smaller ones, so they all have different ratios.

Like everyone says, whack on the smallest pinion and start enjoying your car and motor but keep and eye on the temperatures on your first time out.
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Old 04-14-2009, 04:39 PM   #204
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I built a cup racer this weekend and installed a castle creation 5700kv motor. Tp get the wires in a convient spot in the end they get in the way before you cam the motor over, but you can squish the out of the way or remove the upper deck. The shaft is a little long too but I took a little out of the dust cover and it fit fine. I planed on running a 2s hard pack that I had from intigey, it will not fit. I have been running a 3s and have not had any problems or seen any wear. I have been using the 30 tooth pinion and all seems fine not hardly getting warm, just a little fast. The car is noisy when it is slow(not cogging maybe diffs?), but real quiet at speed.

Last edited by Stat; 04-14-2009 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 04-15-2009, 03:09 AM   #205
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Six hours later...



Still no electronics. Body still uncut and unpainted. No body posts obviously.

Just picked up my Cup Racer this afternoon. Had to settle for the drift version but what difference does it make since all I have to do is swap tires.
I didn't like having to hop from one bag to another to finish one step but that pretty much only applied to the plastics. The last HPI kit I assembled was a Super Nitro Rally so it was a pleasant surprise seeing the improved quality of the parts.
I'm still not really sure what esc and motor I'll put in it but I'm really digging the Novak Havok Spec BL system (17.5). I'm wondering if the car can handle a 13.5 or lower and still do more than just go fast in a straight line.
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:31 AM   #206
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^^^ nice work so far, i got mine some days ago but have only managed up to this point (below). true dat with the plastic parts but i think i got spoiled by the last kit (xray) i built.
i have a sidewinder for sure but mulling about the CC 4600kv or a trinity 21.5. i havent even put the wheels and tires on much less the shocks, 9 to 5 gets in the way/LOL


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Old 04-15-2009, 11:18 AM   #207
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^^^ nice work so far, i got mine some days ago but have only managed up to this point (below). true dat with the plastic parts but i think i got spoiled by the last kit (xray) i built.
You're at about page 23 right? I was ready to call it a night at that part but new car enthusiasm kicked back in.
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:42 AM   #208
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Hey guy's,

Tower has the 26mm wheels as a replacement part for the Cup racer? I thought the wheels for the car was smaller?

Does the Cup use the standard HIP wheels and tires?

BRC
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Old 04-15-2009, 01:52 PM   #209
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You're at about page 23 right? I was ready to call it a night at that part but new car enthusiasm kicked back in.
yeah LOL, let me see if get home early and do a late nighter on it.

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Hey guy's,

Tower has the 26mm wheels as a replacement part for the Cup racer? I thought the wheels for the car was smaller?

Does the Cup use the standard HIP wheels and tires?

BRC
26mm is width ???
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Old 04-15-2009, 05:09 PM   #210
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The wheels and tires are smaller than regular 1/10. I have been running jaco prism purples, they are just about the same size. The other rubber tires I have fit w/o body but are way to tall, they range from 64.7mm - 69.6mm. The kit tires are 60mm tall.

Has anyone gotten another body of any sorts for theirs? I love this 240Z body. I know if I keep running it I am going to eventually scuff it up.
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