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Old 01-01-2011, 03:39 PM   #2071
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Default cheap chassis and interior

I used spare plastic from the kit, a cereal box for floorpans, electrical wire for the steering wheel and roll cage, a toothpick and a ball of tape as a shift knob and some packing foam for a seat. Belt buckles are the wiper decals from the kit traced with a red sharpie. Gauges are decals from the kit and a sharpie. and a bit of glue. Crude and cheap but it took under 2 hours while watching tv. Good place to store a body
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Old 01-02-2011, 04:23 PM   #2072
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Has anyone tried a Tacon BL in one of these yet?
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Old 01-02-2011, 04:24 PM   #2073
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Has anyone tried a Tacon BL in one of these yet?
I have a 3600Kv Tacon going in soon. I'll report on the performance.
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:28 PM   #2074
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Cool! I'm actually curious about the 2848/540 can motors. Seeing as the CR is smaller/lighter than the average 1/10, maybe worth a try? From what I've read so far here, most 3000+ KV motors seem more than what is needed for these cars. A lot of people seem to be liking the Novak 17.5 system, which is a 2200KV. Any reason why one would not want to run the 2848 Tacon in this application?
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:07 AM   #2075
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Ok so I am not new to RC but new to the Cup Racer. I am having an issue and have read through this entire thread and have not seen a solution to my issue that I believe.

I assembled my car and installed a Sidewinder 5700. As for battery I am running a Orion Lipo 3200 20C with Deans connections. When you first apply throttle the car seems to stutter it also is extremely loud.

After the first time the noise scared me so I completely disassembled the drivetrain and double checked assembly. I noticed the rear yoke on the pinion was hitting the three screws that hold the spur gear so I filed them down for clearance and re-assembled everything. The noise is definitely quieter but the stutter issue is still there. I have double checked everything from pinion/spur mesh to the diff's front and rear. The only thing I can think of is the gear ratio is too high at 5.28. Anybody else care to point me in another direction before I go out and spend money on multiple pinion gears?
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:30 AM   #2076
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The stuttering or cogging as it's normally is called can deffinitally be because of your gearing. 5700kv is pretty high for these cars. I would gear it at about 6.00FDR and see if that fixes it or at least makes it better.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:47 AM   #2077
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Also, even if it doesn't fix your problem. That gearing might make your motor to run hot to begin with. Just so you know, you can't go to a much smaller pinion gear with the stock spur gear because you might not be able to mesh correctly. So go get the optional HPI 67 Spur Gear (Part# 87299) and a 27T and 28T pinion gear and you should be set. Robinson Racing makes some good pinion gears and is what I am using.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:52 AM   #2078
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Originally Posted by shanty140 View Post
The stuttering or cogging as it's normally is called can deffinitally be because of your gearing. 5700kv is pretty high for these cars. I would gear it at about 6.00FDR and see if that fixes it or at least makes it better.
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Also, even if it doesn't fix your problem. That gearing might make your motor to run hot to begin with. Just so you know, you can't go to a much smaller pinion gear with the stock spur gear because you might not be able to mesh correctly. So go get the optional HPI 67 Spur Gear (Part# 87299) and a 27T and 28T pinion gear and you should be set. Robinson Racing makes some good pinion gears and is what I am using.
Thanks for the tips. I have quite the collection of Robinson gears and would agree they are top notch. I tried a 19 turn brushed motor and it did make a slight difference in the cogging issue. I think I even have a 27T pinion one so with the optional Spur we'll see if that works. Thanks again and i'll throw up the update once completed.

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Old 01-03-2011, 09:10 AM   #2079
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Sounds good man and good luck. The stock gearing at 5.28FDR is meant for a 30T brushed motor or 17.5 brushless. So you can see why cogging may become and issue. For temps on you motor, you want to be under 170-180*F at the end of your run (Max Temps very a bit for each manufactor). Anything past that and you start demagnetizing the rotor. So basically it's safe to gear anywhere as long as your temps are in that range, lower the better of corse. If your racing, each race is usually 6 minutes long. Tuning tips I have learned for motor experts stat the following:

- Run car for 3 minutes. Temps should be no hotter then 130-140*F
- Run car for 4 minutes. Temps should be no hotter then 150*F
- Run car for 5 minutes. Temps should be no hotter then 160-165*F
- At the end of a 6 minute race. Temps should be lower then the max temp of motor. Usually around 165-180*F.

Again that is for racing. When your running the car for fun. Most of the time you run longer then 6 minutes. So basically you just never want to be above the max temp at the end of your run no matter how long it is.
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:21 AM   #2080
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Originally Posted by shanty140 View Post
Sounds good man and good luck. The stock gearing at 5.28FDR is meant for a 30T brushed motor or 17.5 brushless. So you can see why cogging may become and issue. For temps on you motor, you want to be under 170-180*F at the end of your run (Max Temps very a bit for each manufactor). Anything past that and you start demagnetizing the rotor. So basically it's safe to gear anywhere as long as your temps are in that range, lower the better of corse. If your racing, each race is usually 6 minutes long. Tuning tips I have learned for motor experts stat the following:

- Run car for 3 minutes. Temps should be no hotter then 130-140*F
- Run car for 4 minutes. Temps should be no hotter then 150*F
- Run car for 5 minutes. Temps should be no hotter then 160-165*F
- At the end of a 6 minute race. Temps should be lower then the max temp of motor. Usually around 165-180*F.

Again that is for racing. When your running the car for fun. Most of the time you run longer then 6 minutes. So basically you just never want to be above the max temp at the end of your run no matter how long it is.
Ya I hear ya on the temps. I always use my temp gun on my vehicles to check motor temps. Unfortunately I have not got that far yet with the Cup Racer due to the noise issues. I tend to run a little bit cooler then required not typically more then 160* as it's also more efficient on battery life aswell and I am far from Pro but do like to get out to the club races.
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:30 AM   #2081
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Ya I hear ya on the temps. I always use my temp gun on my vehicles to check motor temps. Unfortunately I have not got that far yet with the Cup Racer due to the noise issues. I tend to run a little bit cooler then required not typically more then 160* as it's also more efficient on battery life aswell and I am far from Pro but do like to get out to the club races.
Haha your like me. I ran my motor last race and never got hotter then 130*F at the end of a 6 minute race... LOL man I really pushing it...... I was running a 17.5 brushless with stock gearing 30/65. I was having to run a NiMh though as didn't have my Lipo then. So most likely with a Lipo I will be around 140*F at the end of a 6 minute race.
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Old 01-03-2011, 10:09 AM   #2082
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...Sidewinder 5700. As for battery I am running a Orion Lipo 3200 20C ...
Correct me if I'm wrong here, but isn't this battery a little on the low side for a 5700? I thought the 5700 draws close to 100A peak?
Is it OK to run a 64A battery because most of the time you will be under the peak? Or is it still best to run a batt. that is rated for higher than the peak draw?
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Old 01-03-2011, 10:24 AM   #2083
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Correct me if I'm wrong here, but isn't this battery a little on the low side for a 5700? I thought the 5700 draws close to 100A peak?
Is it OK to run a 64A battery because most of the time you will be under the peak? Or is it still best to run a batt. that is rated for higher than the peak draw?
You can't run a Sidewinder and the 5700 on a 3 cell to achieve the higher peak therefore what I am running is what is recommended by Castle Creations. As the ESC cannot handle the higher amperage with the 5700. Drop down to the 4600 and you can run 3 cell.

Coles Notes: It's perfectly fine.
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Old 01-03-2011, 10:25 AM   #2084
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Originally Posted by Hodaka View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong here, but isn't this battery a little on the low side for a 5700? I thought the 5700 draws close to 100A peak?
Is it OK to run a 64A battery because most of the time you will be under the peak? Or is it still best to run a batt. that is rated for higher than the peak draw?
Yes the battery is a bit on the low side with a 5700kv motor and upgrading the battery in the future would be a good idea. But the motor should be able to run somewhat decent. But the battery may get a bit hot. And would make it even more sensitive to gearing. But like I said, the Car should be able to run ok.
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Old 01-03-2011, 10:38 AM   #2085
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Quote:
I used spare plastic from the kit, a cereal box for floorpans, electrical wire for the steering wheel and roll cage, a toothpick and a ball of tape as a shift knob and some packing foam for a seat. Belt buckles are the wiper decals from the kit traced with a red sharpie. Gauges are decals from the kit and a sharpie. and a bit of glue. Crude and cheap but it took under 2 hours while watching tv. Good place to store a body
-nice job on the interior bits for your 510.

I am currently working on the interior of my Porsche CR'r ...pic's will come once I get the driver mounted correctly. (I am using the driver figure from a
Tamiya Sand Scorcher kit).
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