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Old 10-01-2010, 09:33 AM   #1846
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Hi again. Ive just finished my CR, but im having problems with electronics. My servo glitches, returns to neutral when turning, and makes mi drivetrain run by itself, without pulling the trigger. Im usin a dx3s, sr300, an orion 1409, and a CCSidewinder. Any ideas? Please Thanks
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Old 10-02-2010, 12:28 AM   #1847
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Guys,

Has anyone mounted the Mini Cooper body on the CR chassis?

If so please post pics...


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Old 10-03-2010, 04:39 AM   #1848
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Default Rear diff tightness

Hi,

My friend just got a HPI CR and we were putting it together today and came across a problem. When we put the rear diff together, there appeared to be a lot of play in the input cup. The cup itself could move in and out of the housing by about 2mm. It appeared as if the metal cup and pinion gear shafts were slightly too long. Thinking it was a bit odd, we checked that everything was installed correctly before continuing. After we got the diffs bolted down with the centre shaft in place, we found that the drivetrain was binding up and was not able to spin freely.

After stripping it down and checking everything again, we found that due to the fore/aft play in the rear input cup, when the centre shaft is installed, the pinion is forced back into crown gear which binds up the entire drive train.

So after all that, my question is if anyone else has had a similar problem or does anyone know of a simple fix?
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Old 10-04-2010, 03:19 PM   #1849
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Ran my CR yesterday after a few months. Put some new slicks on all four corners.. Car was glued to the tarmac.. It also did a traction roll 3 times, scuffing up my perfect body... Grrr lol

What change would you make first, increase front droop, thicker front damper oil, thicker diff front diff oil..

Front spring is the firmest already.
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Old 10-11-2010, 04:43 AM   #1850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksp20 View Post
Hi,

My friend just got a HPI CR and we were putting it together today and came across a problem. When we put the rear diff together, there appeared to be a lot of play in the input cup. The cup itself could move in and out of the housing by about 2mm. It appeared as if the metal cup and pinion gear shafts were slightly too long. Thinking it was a bit odd, we checked that everything was installed correctly before continuing. After we got the diffs bolted down with the centre shaft in place, we found that the drivetrain was binding up and was not able to spin freely.

After stripping it down and checking everything again, we found that due to the fore/aft play in the rear input cup, when the centre shaft is installed, the pinion is forced back into crown gear which binds up the entire drive train.

So after all that, my question is if anyone else has had a similar problem or does anyone know of a simple fix?
I have the same problem and when my drivetrain binds up it jes sounds horrible. Also is there a more durable axle shaft besides the plastic one? ive stripped the axle pin out twice today. And let my say it is not easy to work on this car
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:56 AM   #1851
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Well i picked up and built my cup racer yesterday. For electronics i installed a 5700kv mamba max pro setup. I am also running a 2s 4000mah lipo. So far the only issue is my car wants to pull one way on throttle so i cant give it much throttle. The only other problem i have is i dont like the tires.

So i have a few Questions for everyone:
Where can i get better/treaded tires?

Is the exotek chassis really worth $75?

Is there any other upgrades i should do to make this an awesome car?
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Old 10-11-2010, 12:35 PM   #1852
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i raced mine completely stock for the first time with the x-pattern tires and the sweep 33 tires. I was able to go a whole second faster in my lap times.

I would look into buying the threaded shocks cuz i was starting to get irratated with the pre-load collars.

I like the cup racer and my m05 but what would be faster on the track. If i start hopping up my CR or get the xevo concersion for the tamiyaa chassis?
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:06 PM   #1853
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My biggest issue is i need something better than the stock slicks for when i am not drifting. Possibly something that comes glued already.

I am thinking of buying a full size 1/10 scale onroad to drop the brushless into and then run a 19t brushed in this car.
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Old 10-11-2010, 03:01 PM   #1854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake1191
My biggest issue is i need something better than the stock slicks for when i am not drifting. Possibly something that comes glued already. I am thinking of buying a full size 1/10 scale onroad to drop the brushless into and then run a 19t brushed in this car.
The stock slicks offer alot of grip of your set up is right. If you're looking for pre-glued check out sweepracingusa.com
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Old 10-13-2010, 10:50 AM   #1855
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I have a Cup Racer ...going to begin building it this evening.

What would you all recommend is a good motor, ESC, battery setup. I am not looking to make a rocket out of my CR'er, yet do want something that is quick and fun to race. I anticipate that I'll mostly use this in parking lots (like I do w/ my 1/18th street racer). I may bring it to a track, but probably not for anything competitive -just for "practice runs".

I know a lot of you swear by brushless and lipo battery setup, -this isn't really important to me necessarily. I don't need to spend a fortune, yet don't really have a budget either.

thanks!
(by the way, this is my 1st post, yet i've read through about the 1st 55 of the 118 pages on this thread and didn't really find anything too specific).
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Old 10-13-2010, 01:47 PM   #1856
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cant go wrong with the SP cirtix 17.5 combo for under a 100$

I on the other hand race w/ the silver cans
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Old 10-13-2010, 02:12 PM   #1857
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Thanks Goots,

Okay, so maybe I am totally dumb, ...but what is the "SP Citrix combo" -for under $100? ...and this would be something a stock cup racer could handle and wouldn't make my car a rocket? -but not too slow either?


Also, how is the HPI motor that HPI recommends for the CR'er, -i think it's called the 30R or something.


thanks!
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Old 10-15-2010, 11:00 AM   #1858
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I will be racing mine this weekend in our Mini class to test them. I will post my setup after the weekend.
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Old 10-15-2010, 11:06 AM   #1859
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Okay, i've spent some time researching this,

curious on your thoughts on these two motor/esc setups for the cup racer:

Novak SS 17.5 BL motor w/ Novak sport ESC $159

or

Speed Passion Citrix 17.5 BL motor w/ SP ESC $89


thanks (learning a lot about brushless motors ...I started back in the 80's w/ brushed motors ...but took a 25year break ...now getting into the sport again)
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Old 10-16-2010, 11:06 PM   #1860
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ARGGGHHHH,
started building my CR'er this evening ...w/ 2 small kids and wife I don't get much time to myself ...tonight was my night. I am totally missing 2 plastic parts from the plastics bag. One part is the entire battery tree the other is the shock parts set. ...totally missing. Tonight was the first time I opened the box. I was very methodical in looking over every page of the directions and noticed that two part trees/bags are totally missing. Also my red liquid locking solution containter cap was not tighten and the liquid is all over the inside of that bag. The outer box of my CR'er is in perfect condition, so this must have happened before it was all packaged. -totally frustrating as now I have to call HPI for replacement parts. Funny, thing is that I had to send my original receipt in for the current $25 discount they are offering. So I have no proof I bought this kit!
The two parts trees are cheap, about $10 total, so I may just see if I can get them from some 3rd party and will probably get here quicker.
okay, little frustrated!
(I did make it out to a race today w/ my 4year old boy ...we raced my 1/18th scale street car). -so was still a good day!
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