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Old 04-06-2010, 02:36 AM   #1561
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I can tell you now that the Cup racer in 2WD is a bag of sh*t.

Hara ran a switch at the TITC event in Thailand. As it was uncompetitive he tried a 2WD Cup racer and it was even worse to the point where he gave up in the final
Maybe he's just not used to driving RWD cars? AWD cars have much more traction than 2WD cars and the driving styles are very different. I doubt a RWD CR is much different handling-wise from that of a RWD M04. RWD cars require different driving techniques vs FWD and AWD.
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Old 04-06-2010, 03:45 AM   #1562
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Maybe he's just not used to driving RWD cars? AWD cars have much more traction than 2WD cars and the driving styles are very different. I doubt a RWD CR is much different handling-wise from that of a RWD M04. RWD cars require different driving techniques vs FWD and AWD.
hara run 12th scale - so he knows how to drive rwd car
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:07 AM   #1563
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hara run 12th scale - so he knows how to drive rwd car
If you're talking about Pan cars then that is different too. Pan cars have huge levels of grip with their wide tires and high downforce bodies...nothing like driving narrow RWD M chassis cars.

With equal drivers on a tight track a FWD/AWD car will be faster than a RWD car...it's plain physics...nothing to do with CR being a crap chassis though the CR has never been known to be fast even in AWD form. The fast AWD cars are usually the Genetic and Atomic and Express cars.
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:48 PM   #1564
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I just switched back to the stock kit dampers from Tamiya dampers. What springs are you guys running front and rear? For the time being I put pink in front and blue in the rear.
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:57 PM   #1565
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I just switched back to the stock kit dampers from Tamiya dampers. What springs are you guys running front and rear? For the time being I put pink in front and blue in the rear.
I'm using the same Feels pretty balanced.
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:23 PM   #1566
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Same here, but my rear tends to go avway under motor (oversteer), what should I do? Soften a little the rear differential? Thank you
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:57 PM   #1567
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Same here, but my rear tends to go avway under motor (oversteer), what should I do? Soften a little the rear differential? Thank you

You can try and get more weight transfer to the rear when getting on power. To do this you can lean the rear shock in 1 hole on the rear tower or on the front shock move it out 1 hole on the front tower. You can also try adding more front droop (when you lift the front of the car the arms should have some down travel). A little more rear toe in can help greatly also.
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Old 04-07-2010, 12:18 AM   #1568
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You can try and get more weight transfer to the rear when getting on power. To do this you can lean the rear shock in 1 hole on the rear tower or on the front shock move it out 1 hole on the front tower. You can also try adding more front droop (when you lift the front of the car the arms should have some down travel). A little more rear toe in can help greatly also.
First of all, thanks for the tips, let's see in detail:


The rear shocks are at full lean (the innermost hole) and the front are laydown so I can't do anything (then I'll try to pass them in the raised position).

For the front droop I can unscrew a little the grains in the front suspension, right?

The toe in back is at max value (as manual says).


Thanks mike
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Old 04-07-2010, 11:16 AM   #1569
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First of all, thanks for the tips, let's see in detail:


The rear shocks are at full lean (the innermost hole) and the front are laydown so I can't do anything (then I'll try to pass them in the raised position).

For the front droop I can unscrew a little the grains in the front suspension, right?

The toe in back is at max value (as manual says).


Thanks mike
No problem. Yes for droop.
I think if you add spacers to the F shock ball it stiffens the front dampening but I don't know if that is enough. If it is not enough you may need to go one softer on rear spring but make sure you raise the rear ride height or it will bottom out with the soft springs.
Another option is to use better tires. I'm using Atomic mini slicks & inserts which I think are superb and comparable to Sorex 1/10 tires
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Old 04-07-2010, 11:28 AM   #1570
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Hi All,

I have the Porsche RSR Cup Racer and I originally ran it with a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor and NiMh 5100 battery.Unfortunately, on the first day out racing, I broke the plastic pins on one of the axle cups/shafts.

I ordered aluminium replacements from Liquid R/C and Im waiting for them to arrive.

Anyway, the car lacked in power with the Sport Tuned so I decided to go brushless for the first time.I am a complete newbie when it comes to brushless technology and LiPos etc.

Having just had a baby, funds are a bit scarce.So, I had a small budget for the motor.After looking around I decided on a Hobbywing Xerun 8.5t combo.
Now I know this may be overkill for the CR, what do you guys think?
I havent run it yet due to waiting for the replacement axle cups/shafts.

Thanks in advance,
Cheers,
Steve.
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Old 04-07-2010, 12:46 PM   #1571
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Originally Posted by BangkokBulldog View Post
Hi All,

I have the Porsche RSR Cup Racer and I originally ran it with a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor and NiMh 5100 battery.Unfortunately, on the first day out racing, I broke the plastic pins on one of the axle cups/shafts.

I ordered aluminium replacements from Liquid R/C and Im waiting for them to arrive.

Anyway, the car lacked in power with the Sport Tuned so I decided to go brushless for the first time.I am a complete newbie when it comes to brushless technology and LiPos etc.

Having just had a baby, funds are a bit scarce.So, I had a small budget for the motor.After looking around I decided on a Hobbywing Xerun 8.5t combo.
Now I know this may be overkill for the CR, what do you guys think?
I havent run it yet due to waiting for the replacement axle cups/shafts.

Thanks in advance,
Cheers,
Steve.
Oh yes 8.5 is a bit much. I would definitely turn down the throttle settings and make sure the car had perfect handling before trying to let loose. If possible I would trade the 8.5 for a 17.5. Enjoy!
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:02 PM   #1572
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Oh yes 8.5 is a bit much. I would definitely turn down the throttle settings and make sure the car had perfect handling before trying to let loose. If possible I would trade the 8.5 for a 17.5. Enjoy!
Hi Mike,

Thanks for the reply and loved reading your updates on the CR on this thread.
Well, Im not a serious racer obviously, I just run with my friend at a local track.He has a TA-05 and we actually bought the same motor.Turning down the power is an option.

My questions are;
1) My friend was told that his TA-05 would have no problems handling this motor.Why is the CR unable to handle this motor?...difficult to set-up to have decent control?..... or broken parts due to the power?

2) Has there been an aluminium replacement part for the shaft cup yet?
(85281-10)

3) Ive bought some Sweep wheels,inserts and tyres.Ive been told that I should have the softer 40 tyres on the rear and harder 33 tyres on the front.Im using the car in Bangkok,Thailand so heat is a factor.Any opinions?

Thanks again,
Steve.
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:03 PM   #1573
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I broke the plastic pins on one of the axle cups/shafts. I ordered aluminium replacements from Liquid R/C
Steve: who makes this aluminium replacement part? I was not aware someone came up with a replacement part... thanks
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:14 PM   #1574
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Steve: who makes this aluminium replacement part? I was not aware someone came up with a replacement part... thanks
Hi Ramen:

I think the part was mentioned earlier in this thread.Or I may have the name of the part wrong, being a newbie guy

Anyway, I cannot post a link but the parts are from hot racing and the part number is TTS230CH.

Cheers,
Steve.
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:39 PM   #1575
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It is always the same piece and nobody does it aluminum (almost incredible), and as Mike said, take a back one and mount in the front...
However, a 8.5t is ok but the setup has to be perfect ...otherwise you can use its power only on the straight...
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