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Old 03-26-2010, 12:51 PM   #1546
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Thank you.......what a bummer!!!!

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Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
The Tamiya M chassis cars' wheelbases are:

M03/M05 - 210mm
M03M/M04M/M05M - 225mm
M03L/M04L/M05L - 239mm

The BMW Cooper bodies 2002 and 2006S fit the M03L. I have the 2002 version of the body and its 239mm wheelbase.

Even though Tamiya USA site doesn't say it's 239mm wheelbase for the 2006S body, it does say it's for an M03L.

See the link below from the English language Japanese Tamiya site. Yes the spec said 237mm. Its 239mm.


http://www.tamiya.com/english/produc...er_s/index.htm
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:16 AM   #1547
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I just picked up a CR and will be putting it all together this weekend but I need advice on which servo to run? More speed than torque, more torque than speed, what are good numbers?
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Old 04-02-2010, 07:16 AM   #1548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omalley72 View Post
I just picked up a CR and will be putting it all together this weekend but I need advice on which servo to run? More speed than torque, more torque than speed, what are good numbers?
For Mini sized cars you don't need much torque. All standard sized servos will have enough torque. In terms of speed sometimes too much speed can make the steering twitchy it really depends on your driving style.

With that said any standard sized servo with a speed of around 0.10 sec@6V is good. Look for quality dual ball bearing metal geared digital servos.
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:41 PM   #1549
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If anyone out there is interested in purchasing a Cup Racer running chassis only, please let me know by PM. I'll forward pics to those that are interested.
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Old 04-05-2010, 07:19 AM   #1550
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If I try to run RWD what should I do to the front differential to get good performance? Soften? Harden? Lock?
Thanks
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Old 04-05-2010, 07:39 AM   #1551
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If I try to run RWD what should I do to the front differential to get good performance? Soften? Harden? Lock?
Thanks
Remove the dogbones and differential drive cups then put small piece of foam in the the holes where the drive cups were to prevent dirt from getting in the differential.
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:32 AM   #1552
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Oh, thank you, then make everything free?
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:38 AM   #1553
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Yes, then it will be 2 wheel drive
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:47 AM   #1554
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hehe, sure...I'll try to run against m-05
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:30 PM   #1555
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Disregard what I mentioned earlier as I just remembered that the CR use ball differentials so the drive cups do not/cannot need to be removed from the front differential. What you need to do is remove the front dog bones AND the center prop shaft.
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:33 PM   #1556
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well, yes, I remove the whole front differential and leave only the box...no?
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:37 PM   #1557
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No you do not need to remove the front ball diff, all you need to do is remove the two front L/R dog bones and the long prop shaft that connects the front and rear diffs. This way the rear diff works like normal and is completely disconnected from the front diff so there less drive loss. If you leave the prop shaft in it will still work but you lose efficiency because the motor will still have to turn the front ball diff even if it's not connected to the front wheels.
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Old 04-06-2010, 12:11 AM   #1558
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This is certainly the fastest and easily reversible solution. I'll start like that, if the car is fine then I can remove the whole front differential to save further weight...
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Old 04-06-2010, 12:56 AM   #1559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David-M View Post
This is certainly the fastest and easily reversible solution. I'll start like that, if the car is fine then I can remove the whole front differential to save further weight...
I can tell you now that the Cup racer in 2WD is a bag of sh*t.

Hara ran a switch at the TITC event in Thailand. As it was uncompetitive he tried a 2WD Cup racer and it was even worse to the point where he gave up in the final
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Old 04-06-2010, 02:25 AM   #1560
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mmm. bad news, although a little I thought it
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