TT01 Hopup Questions
#16
hey loop, ur car will go faster w/the plastic motor mount. thank me later. peace.
R
R
#17
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
ultegrasti,
Ive read your posts on the TT01. I had 2 tt01s before, the D and R. Sold them
all because of the front suspension slop, and its appetite for stock pinions.
Now Im a having an urge of getting into TT01 spec racing locally. Ive read
the local rules and specs... Tamiya hop ups allowed, silvercan (2 vent holes),
any tyre, TEU101BK esc, realistic body shell (non racing bodies), LiPo allowed.
I want to get a 3rd TT01 and will follow your suggestions since you've
raced this chassis in spec class. But I want to hear your opinion in some
issues that I have:
• What is the better platform to start with, TT01 D, E, or R? Combination?
• I want to change the front suspension to c-hub style suspension.
Ive seen in some thread or forum a TT01 with this kind of set up.
The front suspension ball joints tend to wear really fast and lowers
your car slowly. I want to try front suspensions from TL01 or TA05.
• Now about the propeller shaft, is it better to use the stock plastic rather
than the aluminum? Reason is I want to have a bit of flex/slip when
accelerating or braking so that it will be less stress to the drivetrain
thus saving me some pinions.
• Havent tried any stabilizers in my previous TT01s, any significant gains
with these devices?
• Lastly, since we'll be confined with stock Tamiya esc, can I put a
Novak capacitor in this esc for more punch?
• What do you mean by running your TT01 like pan cars? Please elaborate.
I always enjoy reading your posts everywhere in rctech... TT01, TC4,
TC5, etc... your all around man.
Hope you share more.
Regards.
Ive read your posts on the TT01. I had 2 tt01s before, the D and R. Sold them
all because of the front suspension slop, and its appetite for stock pinions.
Now Im a having an urge of getting into TT01 spec racing locally. Ive read
the local rules and specs... Tamiya hop ups allowed, silvercan (2 vent holes),
any tyre, TEU101BK esc, realistic body shell (non racing bodies), LiPo allowed.
I want to get a 3rd TT01 and will follow your suggestions since you've
raced this chassis in spec class. But I want to hear your opinion in some
issues that I have:
• What is the better platform to start with, TT01 D, E, or R? Combination?
• I want to change the front suspension to c-hub style suspension.
Ive seen in some thread or forum a TT01 with this kind of set up.
The front suspension ball joints tend to wear really fast and lowers
your car slowly. I want to try front suspensions from TL01 or TA05.
• Now about the propeller shaft, is it better to use the stock plastic rather
than the aluminum? Reason is I want to have a bit of flex/slip when
accelerating or braking so that it will be less stress to the drivetrain
thus saving me some pinions.
• Havent tried any stabilizers in my previous TT01s, any significant gains
with these devices?
• Lastly, since we'll be confined with stock Tamiya esc, can I put a
Novak capacitor in this esc for more punch?
• What do you mean by running your TT01 like pan cars? Please elaborate.
I always enjoy reading your posts everywhere in rctech... TT01, TC4,
TC5, etc... your all around man.
Hope you share more.
Regards.
#18
#19
if yer trying to make a drifter, the tt01 is the one to get. dont get ball bearing differentials. stick with the opend geared differentials. ill tell you why.... my friends and i drift in RL and we welded or rear differentials because they were open which means it will keep you from drifting. by welding it you make it like a "spool" or fake LSD. so just take your rear opend diff on your tt01 and take some silly putty "yes that stuff you buy in they toy isle" and put it inbetween each gear of the diff. this makes it a spool. kinda like welding a diff only its not permanent. this gives you great control for dirifting.
#20
the steering issue..........I started withe a base tt01.The steering sucked.I added turnbuckles and it got a bit better.Then I added the etype parts,and got better still.Then I added 3racing steering arms and turnbuckle and now it is really good.
This car drifts great with heavy grease in the diffs,and a high torque motor with pvc tires..
I also use it in gt2.With tamiya celica gt4 tires, hpi 6mm offset wheels and really stiff foam liners and a 200mm HPI Firebird body.I use a peak racing dragon 14td motor that spins @ 34000rmp and I run 23/58gearing .I have put ball baerings,alum shaft, cva shocks,etype upper deck and shock mounts on it.I runs really good for the little $$ I have put into it.I end up in the b mains regularly out of 30 or so guys weekly.
I enjoy the car and the fun racing it,but I will not braek my bank account to go fast.I just love the racing
This car drifts great with heavy grease in the diffs,and a high torque motor with pvc tires..
I also use it in gt2.With tamiya celica gt4 tires, hpi 6mm offset wheels and really stiff foam liners and a 200mm HPI Firebird body.I use a peak racing dragon 14td motor that spins @ 34000rmp and I run 23/58gearing .I have put ball baerings,alum shaft, cva shocks,etype upper deck and shock mounts on it.I runs really good for the little $$ I have put into it.I end up in the b mains regularly out of 30 or so guys weekly.
I enjoy the car and the fun racing it,but I will not braek my bank account to go fast.I just love the racing
#21
Tech Apprentice
When you guys say "steering issue" are you talking about the extreme amount of play on the front wheels? I hate it so much, the car starts shaking at max throttle, silver can!
Oh and I don't have the motor plate that goes between the motor mount and motor. Will the be an issue?
Oh and I don't have the motor plate that goes between the motor mount and motor. Will the be an issue?
#22
yes ,that is what we are talking about.I used the 3racing steering setup along with the etype upper deck,and the car is not stable up to 40-50mph.I am still using the plastic motor mounts,I have had no problems yet.The metal ones draw off heat,so it can't hurt.if your motors are running hot, use a larger spur or smaller pinion.5 sec rule applies.If you can't hold you finger on the motor for 5 sec, it is geared to big for the motor, and you will fry it.