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Old 11-15-2002, 10:01 AM   #706
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x414x

Have you tried my suggestions two posts above? If you strike out there, it pretty much doesn't exist!
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Old 11-15-2002, 10:17 AM   #707
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Thanks,
I'll give it a shot.
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Old 11-20-2002, 03:11 PM   #708
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I am a little new to the TA03-R and I was just wondering something. I dont officially own it yet, but i will as soon as this trade is over. But what would I want to get right away as far as the whole car? This knowledge will be for future reference because I am on a limited budget. It has the carbon chassis on it but that is it.
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Old 11-20-2002, 05:55 PM   #709
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EVIL_S10,
Do you intend racing in any particular class???
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Old 11-20-2002, 06:01 PM   #710
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Start with the lightweight components. The TA03 is a heavy car. I'd get the aluminum dogbones, the aluminum layshafts (where the pulleys are attached), one way pulley for the front gear box. Check if you have ball diffs.
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Old 11-21-2002, 03:37 AM   #711
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I would get the front one way pulley AND the front oneway diff... gets the TA03 steering HEAPS better and makes the car noticably quicker, though a little harder to drive... with a TA03 TRF Ball diff in the rear

Good shocks, either the alloy Tamiya ones or a good quality aftermarket (like Eagle Racing) make life with ANY Tamiya a lot easier... get both sets of Tamiya tuned springs... the standard and the hard

As time goes one and the budget allows add the alloy pieces like the belt pullies and layshafts and the alloy hub carriers etc... if chasing even more steering the TA02 front hub carriers work... I have them on Mine

Forget swaybars... the TA03 just doesn't have enough mechanical grip to sacrifice any with using swaybars

Basically this will let you set up the car pretty well and to go pretty quick... I've got My TA03 going faster around My local track than My Associated TC3

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Old 11-21-2002, 10:00 AM   #712
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I like the way the car handles with very little changes. I've been racing an 03S lately and it's an awesome car. The only thing I did to it is add bearings (~$30) and the lightweight layshafts (~$7 each X2) I also felt like the car didn't have enough steering in the "R" configuration, so I bougt the "F" rear gearcase (~$10) and made my car a front motor. It has much more steering in the F configuration than the R does. You should also lower the ride height and use o-rings, in addition to the shock spacers, to control the droop. When you lower the ride height, you will probably also need to add adjustable upper suspension links to take some camber out. I run with 1 degree of camber all the way around and the car is very well balanced.
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Old 11-21-2002, 02:11 PM   #713
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I plan on racing it. I just got it today and I like the way it is, but i am still stumped on a lot of things.

1) How do you install the servo in the car?

2) How do you install the battery holder in the car (and how to put it together)?

3) I have old Losi xxx-s .36 shocks, will they be able to fit on it and run good???

I think that is it for now but i mostly likely will have a lot more questions
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Old 11-21-2002, 04:46 PM   #714
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The servo mounts in the tub just behind the front bulkhead. It may be that the mounts are missing, so you might have to pick up a set. I like the Tamiya one. It's part# 53308. There is a screw hole for one side of the servo mount and a slot for the other side so you can use a micro sized servo if you like.

The battery tray is molded into the tub and there is a small plastic "door" that is held on with a body pin. It is on the "passenger" side of the tub. If it's missing, use glass tape to hold the battery in place. I don't believe the door is available separately. The tub only allows you to run stick packs unless you do some creative Dremelling. If you get the carbon chassis set, you can run side-by-sides and you may still be able to find the saddle pack chassis on Ebay.

I'm not a big fan of the Losi XXX-S shocks. They leak air, no matter what you do. I'd stick with the kit shocks or use the short Yokomo shocks if you want threaded body shocks that are cheaper than the Tamiya ones. The Yok's should be around $40 vs $60 for the Tamiya ones.
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Old 11-21-2002, 06:09 PM   #715
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you see i got these two servo mounts that look like they arent for it but i am not sure. I have the carbon chassis that is like 3 inches wide. I am going to try and run the battery tray near the motor considering it is in the rear and i didnt like it anywhere else.
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Old 11-21-2002, 06:22 PM   #716
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If you have extra cash, you can also pick up the optional battery plate. This will enable you to move the battery tray farther front just behind the steering racks. The plate goes over the two battery braces, replacing the plastic grid above the batter. The servo will then be mounted on the plate.

This moves more weight towards the front end, balancing the motor's weight at the rear.

I also have steering problems with my 03R. I use the saddle chassis and most of the weight are on the rear.
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Old 11-21-2002, 07:57 PM   #717
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If you need better steering try running super narrows in front and 24mm in the rear. When I raced my 03F, the super narrows gave me instant steering without needing any other adjustments.

The car will have a quicker initial steering and better steering overall especially tight chicanes. And all the extra steering with the standard 11 degree caster C- carrier. Then I was using express radials all around.

Give it a try.
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Old 11-22-2002, 02:48 PM   #718
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Evil_S10

Ah... ok, I see. You have the CF chassis kit without the battery tray. The part# for the battery tray is 50703. If you use that battery tray, you can use stick packs or side-by-sides if you don't use the battery "cups."

Fit, thanks for the suggestion. Do you know if those tires come in any kit? The class that I am racing the 03FS in requires the use of kit tires. No Hop-Up or Type A or B tires are allowed.
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Old 11-23-2002, 07:03 AM   #719
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Psycho: The super narrows are not from Tamiya. The tyres are from Express. I think HPI has them too.
With the kit's tyres there's nothing much that can be done other than suspension tweaks to improve steering. But then the kit tyres only have so much grip.
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Old 11-23-2002, 11:19 AM   #720
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I am pretty sure that it has the FRP Chassis kit w/ their battery kit. It has two sets of pins on each end so this door thing comes off. Ontop of that i have this carbon piece that is bolted to the chassis and the battery tray with four bolts.

Today I found out that I have associated shocks on it. They seem to work pretty good, but not as good as my losi's. I have a choice of shocks that i can put on it and they are Traxxas, Losi, Associated or HPI. I do have the money for new shocks and i think that is what i am going to get today at the LHS.

One other thing, I was wondering about the stabilizer kit. I am thinking about getting it mainly just for show considering I have heard that they pretty much do nothing (correct me if i am wrong). I would just like to put them to use.
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