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Old 06-20-2002, 09:22 PM   #451
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DAYTEN

for the ESC,

i already refered to the manual, nothing was written there 'bout extra caps for the ESC.

I think NOT DESIGN for extras since it's quite huge.

BTW what's the caps for? storing extra what?

COOL
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Old 06-20-2002, 10:06 PM   #452
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Talking Caps and Diodes

ToyBits...

The Caps are there primarily for smoothing out the voltage spikes produced by the motor. On the other hand, the Schottky diodes' main use is to divert from the ESC the large inductive kick also produced by the motor every time you hit the brakes.

In short, they protect your precious ESC from your badass Motor!!!

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Old 06-21-2002, 01:39 AM   #453
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ROUGH

Thanx man, but my ESC is not the newer one. am using an oldie Novak MC-1 or MXC, don'y know but it's older than my kid for sure.

BTW, di ako si TOYBITS.

baka magalit sa kin un

TOYBITS

Sir; missed ID lang ha
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Old 06-21-2002, 07:56 PM   #454
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Dugrant153

This is a baseline setup that I have for the TA03F DJ.

Smooth Track setup

Rear
80wt oil
Blue Springs
1 hole pistons with 2 black o-rings for travel limiters
2 degrees of camber
2 degrees of toe-in
4mm ride height
battery to the rear
Red sway bars
16 tooth pulley

Front
80wt oil
Blue Springs
1 hole pistons with 2 black o-rings for travel limiters
2 degrees of camber
yellow sway bars
16 tooth pulley
Stock Hub Carrier


Bitoy

I am not really sure if the older Novak ESC's need the caps, but the newer ones usually come with one. I had an old Tekin ESC that did not need to have a cap solder on to it.
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Old 06-21-2002, 11:02 PM   #455
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Well, wasn't looking for THOSE kinda setups. But thanks. I'll need that kind of setup anyways.

I was looking more for repair tips, maintenance tips... and also, a part number for the large screws that hold the battery thing in place. They're flathead 3 x 3.5 mm screws that you put in through the bottom of the chassis's countersunk holes, up through the battery pack holder.

I noticed the TA03F has a HUGE tendency to drift. But that's a good thing for me.
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Old 06-21-2002, 11:34 PM   #456
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why still run TAO3's?
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Old 06-22-2002, 11:48 AM   #457
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Also, wondering if anyone has a part number for a flat head screw, size 3 x 3.5mm (it's big). It was missing from my Tamiya TA03F kit. It's the screw used to hold the battery holder in place. There's supposed to be 4 of them.
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Old 06-23-2002, 01:36 AM   #458
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ROUGH512

Living in the Philippines right now?

Where do you race?

Are you a Filipino?

Looks like you've been here before.

(sorry bout my questions)

Last edited by Bitoy; 06-23-2002 at 01:59 AM.
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Old 06-23-2002, 02:18 AM   #459
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I raced my 03F yesterday, and it gave me headaches, was pretty sure i set it up pretty well the night before in front of our place but when i ran my car yesterday i ended up a loser.

UNDERSTEER.

Whenever i took a turn, always kissin' the other side of the wall. Coasting, Drifting, Pushing, Loose Brakes, Half throttle, 1/4 throttle, lengthen my rear shock shafts, pulling my front down, rear tires with soft inserts, even no inserts i used just to make her push, but to no effect.

Can you help me on this.

QUESTION;

Which is better at the corners, harder springs in front or softer?

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Old 06-23-2002, 06:25 PM   #460
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Bitoy...

I work in Makati City.

I joined the Wacky race at Pasig Capitol Speedway last saturday... landed second in the B-main of the novice class... If you were there and you saw a yellow car running with the shell ready to fall off in the last heat, that was me... :lol

I was lucky. My 03 pushing all day, I have to let go of the throttle throughout every turn. Am still using a gear diff at the rear and a ball diff at the front. I might have tightened the ball diff too much before the race. Too lazy to adjust at the race track.



Last edited by rough512; 06-24-2002 at 03:15 AM.
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Old 06-24-2002, 03:22 AM   #461
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Rough512

BIG GUY WITH THE BLACK SHADES

Yah, i remember you, i passed your car in front of the stand when some guy beneath shouting at you to stop your car so he can fix the shell. remember?

I drove the the yellow/black Ford Focus WRC 01/TA03F.

Man, THAT RACE WAS GREAT. I enjoyed it, although my car gave shits and headache. She doesn't want to turn left and right but damn, she screams in the straight..............................ahhhhhhhhhhh hhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I don't wanna talk about it

Hey Rough, why is it i ended up last in the tally when I took the 3rd P in first and second heat of the finals, mAyBe i lOsT aT d 3rD hEat, cguro. donno the result of that one.


Di ba drop one ung game natin nuon. Just thinkin' .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ..............

NICE RACING WITH YOU OFF-ROADERS

Congrats to Luis, got his eyebrows crossssssssssssssssssed the whole day,

baka dahil sa init ng araw.............................................. .....................

YOU TOO MAN, CONGRATS FOR BAGGING THE SECOND
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Old 06-24-2002, 10:08 AM   #462
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Bitoy

You don't choose springs based on corners, you choose them based on the amount of grip you need. The only real exception is when you are on a really bumpy track where you need the suspension movement to keep the tires contacting the track. If you are pushing (oversteer,) you should check a few things. First off, make sure you have the proper amount of steering travel. Make sure that it's not binding up. The diffs will change the amount of steering too. If you run them loose, you will add steering. If you run them tight, you will take away steering. I usually run them just tight enough where they don't slip. If I have too much steering, I fix it another way. Check your front toe as well. Since the steering is fairly sloppy, I'd run with 1 degree of toe out per side. You'll need to push the front edges of the wheels toward the rear of the car to simulate what will happen on the track in order to set it correctly. Swaybars will also reduce steering, so try running without them until you get the steering sorted out. I would also experiment with different tire compounds and inserts. If your track is prepared, try running Pit Shimizu or TakeOff 27's with a medium insert like HPI green. The TakeOff's come with inserts, so use those. 27's should work great on tracks ranging from 80-130 degrees F. If you are on a dusty surface, try running a softer tire like a 24 or maybe a treaded tire like a Proline S2 compound treaded tire. I don't use treaded tires, so I don't know what works best there. Good luck!
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Old 06-24-2002, 06:52 PM   #463
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Psycho:

Quote:
The diffs will change the amount of steering too. If you run them loose, you will add steering. If you run them tight, you will take away steering.

You just confirmed my suspicion. I was thinking the same thing after our saturday race although my initial theory is quite the opposite...

You see I've been browsing the "Faster Cornering like a Pro" thread and the following post by MCrisp caught my attention

Quote:
When I first started thinking about front one-ways I thought the same thing that you stated in your post. I use to think that with both front wheels pulling at the same rate, the car would push more. But the opposite happens.

They were talking about front one-ways at that time but the second sentence looks independent of whether a one-way is present or not. Besides, a tightening the front diff got me into thinking that maybe the front wheels will more likely turn at the same rate.



Bitoy:

Nope, I did wear black shades. but I am not big. :lol

Were you the guy beside me who keeps muttering about how his car is understeering, how his suspension is binding... etc etc ???heheheh... I remember your car too.

I dnt know how you ended last. The final results are now Posted at the Tamiya Manila RC Racer's Forum.... You can ask around how the final tally went down...
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Old 06-24-2002, 11:08 PM   #464
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Rough512;

yessir, should be me.

looks like i'm talkin to my car huh. R U a reg racer of Kapitolyo Tracks?

See u nxt race, i hope.

psycho;

Tnx bro, answers all my questions, especially with those tires i used that day. and my diff, too tight i guess.
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Old 06-25-2002, 09:56 AM   #465
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Bitoy

No prob.

rough512

If you happened to watch the European Gran Prix this past weekend, you got a great lesson on what happens to your steering in a turn and what effect the diff and front one-way would have in your rc car. Say you're making a right turn, what happens is the weight shifts to the left putting most of your steering on your left wheel. You use droop, dampening and springrate to balance things out so the right wheel gets as much traction as possible. OK, now add in drive to the front wheels. With a diff, it allows the inside and outside wheel to rotate at different speeds. Back to our turn, the right wheel is travelling a shorter distance than the left wheel, so it slows down in the turn. If you lose traction on the inside (right) wheel, all the power of the motor unloads on the inside wheel and you lose the effect of 4wd. What you feel on the drivers stand is that the car is pushing like a dump truck. So, you will need to play with your suspension settings and tire compound to increase your front grip and this won't happen. An easy way to reduce push without changing anything is to use your brake before the turn or let off earlier. It might seem obvious, but it's easy to forget during a race. Now, if you run a front one-way, you have a different set of circumstances. You fix one problem, but add another. A one-way basically allows the same action as a diff, in the sense that the inside and outside wheels can rotate at different speeds. What the one-way does not allow is that unloading effect. Even if the inside wheel completely lifts off the ground, you do not lose power to the outside wheel and you still have power to the inside wheel. Where you would lift off the throttle as the car starts to push with a diff, you gently apply throttle with a oneway. In order to make this work, you need to have more grip up front than in back, though, because you have to steer with the back of the car too. You slide the backend around in a controlled fashion to get more steering. The big drawback to a front one-way is that you only have brakes in the rear. If you have the brake set to strong, you will snap the backend around when you brake. You also do not want to use brakes in a turn with a front one-way. In case you're wondering what effect a mid-one-way has, it's just to reduce drag. It allows the front and rear drivertrains to roll freely from each other which reduces your rolling resistance.
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