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Old 05-18-2002, 10:08 PM   #406
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Does any of you know the dimension of following Tamiya bearings?

1510 - 10x15x4
1280 - 8x12x3.5
1060 - ?
1050 - ?
850 - 5x8x2.5
840 - ?

Thank you for your help.
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Old 05-18-2002, 11:50 PM   #407
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Anyone still find TA03 available.... ?


One thing, how much is the TA03-F pro?

thanks
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Old 05-19-2002, 09:36 PM   #408
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rcruv

You might try calling Tamiya America. I looked in mt Tamiya instruction books and they don't show the mm numbers, only the part#'s. If you are trying to buy an entire bearing set, try Integy www.integy.com. They have pre-packaged bearing sets for many cars.

M 5

If you've looked on Ebay and can't find what you are looking for, here's a couple hobby shops you can try.

www.sheldonshobbies.com Sheldons has lot's of older Tamiya kits in stock. Expect to pay top dollar, but they may have what you are looking for. I'd call them rather than searching their webpage.

www.mdiracing.com MDI does a great job of tracking down hard to find Tamiya stuff. If it's available new from any normal wholesale hobby chain, Les will get it for you and charge a reasonable price. Send him an email.

Good luck!
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Old 05-19-2002, 10:11 PM   #409
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Quote:
Originally posted by psycho
rcruv

You might try calling Tamiya America. I looked in mt Tamiya instruction books and they don't show the mm numbers, only the part#'s. If you are trying to buy an entire bearing set, try Integy www.integy.com. They have pre-packaged bearing sets for many cars.
---------
Thank you for the info on integy.

Actually I got the size.

1510 - 10x15x4
1280 - 8x12x3.5
1060 - 6x10x3
1050 - 5x10x4
850 - 5x8x2.5
840 - 4x8x3

It should be correct or close at least.
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Old 05-20-2002, 11:18 AM   #410
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rcruv

Cool. Thanks for the info. It's always good to have those sizes in case you blow out a bearing on race day and have to sift through the bearing box at the hobby shop!

Dayten

How about that race yesterday? The F201 race was pretty wild in the rain. I haven't had that much fun in a long time!
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Old 05-20-2002, 12:24 PM   #411
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Psycho-Yeah the F201 looked pretty cool. To bad that it rained. I actually didn't finish my qualifier. I broke my bumper and the ball connector for my left front shock stripped out of my front arm. So I DNF my first qualifier. Fixed my shock at the track, but I would have been running with out a front bumper. The back section just killed me. I kept thinking that there was a back straight. I also put in a faster steering servo on my car so I was not used to the quickness of the car so I kept hitting the boards yesterday.

After the race was called off due to the rain, I went to D & J to get a new front grear case, the bumper also stripped the mounting holes on the grear case. Fixed my car last night so I am pretty much ready to go.

The Tamiya 414M looked pretty good out there. Two guys that was pitting next to me was running the 414M. They sparked my interest on the 414MII. I'll have to see though, saving money for my vacation next month.
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Old 05-20-2002, 02:49 PM   #412
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I plan to slap Jaime around for setting the track up with a front straight instead of a back straight. So many people piled into that board, it really wasn't funny after a while. The 414-2 is the world champion car, so it's obviously improved over the previous version. Go "Big T." They had 2 cars in the a-main.
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Old 05-20-2002, 05:44 PM   #413
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Hmm, "obviously improved". Then I guess blue IS better.

Gavin
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Old 05-20-2002, 06:15 PM   #414
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Dayten - I was one of the 2 guys you pitted next to who drives 414M's.

psycho - I don't think you realize that the only big difference between the 414M and 414MII is that the bulkheads are anodized blue!
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Old 05-21-2002, 10:38 AM   #415
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Psycho-I guess Jaime just wanted to keep us on our toes. I have to be more careful at the next race. I am ordering spare gear cases just in case. I might have to look for another TC, it is getting harder to find parts locally. I don't like mail order, I would rather support LHS.

Aurra-Cool. The both of you had sweet looking cars. Looks like you modified your front sway bar mount if I am not mistaken from stock, looks really trick.

So is the next Castle race next month? Is there going to be a make up?
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Old 06-05-2002, 11:20 PM   #416
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I've just been browsing RCRacing.com

A guy there mentioned about mounting the front assembly of his Yokome to the rear to come up with an adjustable rear toe. Do you think this could be done on the 03? I have an extra plastic hub carrier and knuckle arm but I have no adjustable links to even try this out.

Finally finished my 03F to 03R conversion. The car seems more responsive on the living room. Haven't have time to test it on the track yet. I used 6mm bearing for the idler assembly. I find the belt a little too loose though. I like the way the car is able to coast to stop. I think it has more "freewheeling" run now compared to the old Idler bearing and even when it is in F config...

Just thinking out loud...

Hiyaaa guys, wake up!!!


Last edited by rough512; 06-05-2002 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 06-06-2002, 03:44 PM   #417
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rough512

I don't really think the car needs adjustable toe in the rear, but you could probably make that work. I'm sure it will make one of the toughest sedans ever built more prone to breaking.
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Old 06-06-2002, 07:21 PM   #418
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Quote:
I'm sure it will make one of the toughest sedans ever built more prone to breaking.



Thanks Psycho, you saved me a lot of time.
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Old 06-07-2002, 10:25 AM   #419
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Default TA03 Alu Arms?

Anyone ever run Eagle (or others) Aluminum arms? I'm curious about the durability (bending?) in a crash. Thanks
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Old 06-07-2002, 11:10 AM   #420
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Default Re: TA03 Alu Arms?

microman

There are many schools of thought on this subject. Here are some things to consider.

Aluminum usually weighs more than plastic.
Aluminum bends. Plastic breaks
Aluminum costs more than plastic (usually.)
There is a certain cool factor to anodized aluminum.

If you take the cool and cost factors out, it makes the decision a bit easier. I would prefer to have a plastic arm break so I know what to fix. If you bend an alum arm, you might not notice it. Then you end up fighting your setup trying to compensate for a bent part. I race in a very competitive club. In an environment like that, you need every advantage you can get. If you can save a few grams here and there, it makes your car more responsive and faster. This translates into a more competitive car.

It really depends on what you are doing with your car. If you are bashing and just want it to look cool and have everyone say "wow" when they see it, aluminum and titanium is the way to go. If you are racing, you probablt want to use aluminum more sparingly. Take a look at the top racers cars. I don't remember ever seeing aluminum arms on one. Sure those guys are better drivers than we are (well, me at least!) I hope that helps!

I plan to take my TA03F DJ edition out of mothball this weekend. My daughter wants to start racing and doesn't really like her TC3. I can't say that I blame her! I picked up adjustable camber links for it so I can get it all set up for her. Should be fun!
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