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Old 04-23-2002, 02:51 PM   #361
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Dayten

I didn't have much time to watch the races, so I didn't see how your car looked on the track. It sounds like you were doing the right things, though. Also, keep in mind that the layout you ran on Sunday is the 2001 Castle Classic layout that was rotated 180 degrees. It's a pretty tricky layout in the sense that if you blow a turn in the infield, you can't set up the next turn correctly. Usually, the track is more open than that, so you should be able to run faster at the next race. It's definitely tough to run fast when your motor is binding up! I run a P2K2 in my sedan and have been really happy with that motor. I would suggest using that motor or a Reedy MVP. If you're planning on buying new batteries, pick up Sanyo 3000HV's. They don't go flat 3 minutes into the race like 2400's can. Castle had some good number batteries when I looked a week or so ago. Get the ones with the highest voltage. Don't worry about the runtime. Otherwise, if you just want to get some decent batteries pretty cheap, check out Sheldons. They have a whole cabinet full of discontinued batteries that are pretty cheap. Just make sure you get matched cells. You should go out and race at Sheldons on Saturdays. They race the weeks that Castle doesn't. It's real mellow and you can get some good practice on that tight track! Just watch out for the area around the timing bridge! That's the Ron Sheldon memorial turn. Lots of parts are broken in that turn.
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Old 04-23-2002, 10:27 PM   #362
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I actually enjoyed the track layout alot, since I wasn't going really fast. I would like to attend the Sheldons race, but I am busy this weekend. I hope to make it to the next Sheldons race and I will definitely try to make it to the next Castle race. Thanks for the info about the 3000 packs. I always swayed away from 3000 pack because they are more delicate than Ni-cads when charging them. I'll try to do more research on the care of Ni-MH batteries before I buy one. I would hate it if I damaged a new pack.
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Old 04-24-2002, 09:37 AM   #363
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Dayten

You won't damage 3000's. They don't mind getting hot. You'll need a charger than can properly peak them, though. If you don't have a nimh charger, just let the pack cool after you charge and charge it again. If you are going to get 3000's, make sure you get HV's since the voltage is higher.
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Old 04-26-2002, 10:04 AM   #364
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psycho-Yeah I have a Tekin 112C with H30 software that should be able to handle the NiMH. I'll try looking in to the 3000 packs at Castle. I am working on my diffs and trying to make them as smooth as possible.


wyd-My setup was almost similar to your setup but just a little softer in the rear.

80WT Assoiciated Oil (front and rear).
66mm total shock length, 2 o-rings internal limiter, with 1 hole black piston (front and rear).
Stock fixed camber links.
Blue springs for the front and Yellow for the rear.
Yellow swaybars (front and rear).
5mm ride height.
15T pulleys (front and rear).
Torque splitter in front gear box.
Running a carbon fiber saddle pack chassis.
Paradox Stock Motor with .4 25T pinion gear.
Yokomo sprint medium with yokomo medium inserts on Tamiya wheels with 2mm offset.

The car handled great the way I was running the car. I was not really pushing the car to it's limit (novice driver).
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Old 04-26-2002, 01:25 PM   #365
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Dayten

Just loosen your diffs abit and they should be fine. You want them tight enough so they don't slip, but looser than they are now.

I picked up my F201 yesterday, so I think I will try to find a new home for my Sears Point ALMS ticket so I can race next month! I hope SPEED has decent coverage of the race or I'll be really pissed!
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Old 04-26-2002, 01:40 PM   #366
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Dayten glad the car is working for you. I'm going to have my buddy run mine at the next TCS race and I will run my TB01 plastic tub version.
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Old 04-26-2002, 03:23 PM   #367
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Psycho-That is cool dude. That new Tamiya F201 looks really trick. I sold 3 of my cars and I maybe looking into getting a new car, the F201 has definitely caught my interest the first time I saw it on Tamiya's web site a couple months ago.

Wyd-Thanks cool. I like the TA03R a lot, great car to learn on. It got hit really bad a couple of times and the car just kept on going, no broken parts, just knocked my receiver off. Quick fix, more servo tape.
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Old 04-26-2002, 07:19 PM   #368
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Dayten it is a great car still. It can take big hits and still run with no broken parts. It does suffer a little with all the extra gears but it is a great car to learn with and just to race with in general. I never did run mine with a new stock motor like I have in my new TB01 plastic tub type.

That would have helped alot along with some new batteries. Mine are old but run great. I don't even own a 2400 or 3000 yet. I run stock most of the time and have no problems keeping up with 2000's. new batteries will just make me alot faster.

I will get some new ones for the next TCS race in July. I did just put in a new LRP Quantum instead of my Cyclone. Can't wait to try it as it is alot smaller and seems to have more punch. I will know Saturday if it does.
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Old 04-27-2002, 08:45 AM   #369
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wyd

The LRP Quantum is a good speedo. I run them in my F103 and XXX-S with stock motors. I have never had a single problem with either of them and I love the small size and weight. You'll be happy with it.
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Old 04-28-2002, 12:02 AM   #370
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Hi Guys,

My tub chassis just broke. About time since I have not changed it since i bought it in 97!

I was thinking of changing to the carbon chassis. My question is, do i need to get the FRP conversion first before I can change to the carbon one?

Or can I just directly convert tub to carbon chassis?

Thanks
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Old 04-28-2002, 05:42 AM   #371
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psycho I ran the new Quantum and it is very nice. It was super smooth. I did go 3 seconds faster than last week but it was not the speedo that did it. I put on a much newer set of Tamiya A's and it really hooked my car up. I do like the smaller size as I saved 1 oz. of weight. That is great since my TB01 is 3lbs 8oz with the new speedo in.

I'm working on getting a graphite top plate for my TB01 and that will let me take off all that extra plastic I don't need. I should be able to take off 2 to 3 more ounces with that.

I run the car in the GT2 class as our track does run some TCS classes all the time. I really wish they would make a chassis more like the TA04R pro. It would be lighter and still be considered a tub chassis. I don't want to spend 425 on a EV2 since I can't run the stock GT2 Tamiya class. Oh well you can't have everything. I will make due at this time.
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Old 04-28-2002, 07:58 AM   #372
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Fit

I'm pretty sure you can just bolt the graphite chassis on. A buddy of mine went from the tub to the saddle pack chassis and I'm pretty sure he didn't have to make any other chages. As I recall, the stick pack chassis comes with the matching top deck, but I'm not sure about the saddle pack chassis.

wyd

How's the TB01 running for you? A couple buddies of mine gave up on them because they couldn't keep pace with other cars. They seemed to think that the drivetrain was too ineffecient and they was why thier cars were slow. I didn't want to rub it in any more, so I didn't ask them too much about it.
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Old 04-28-2002, 08:20 AM   #373
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psycho it seems to be fast. I have all the lightweight gears in it and the lightweight alum. drive shaft. I will be getting the graphite one (not really that much lighter but cooler looking). I think it is very free. The only thing I don't care for is the outdrives are still those ones like the TA03's have that pull in and out. I think they should be perminant like the 04's have.

Speed wise it is as fast as the 04's in almost all places. I think it should accelerate faster than it does but I thinkk that is the fact that the car is 4 to 5 ounces heavier than most of the 04's I race agaist but I'm working on that problem. Overall it is a fast car. I think the last two things I will do is get the long a arm kit and graphite shock towers (I will adapt the 04's to fit and still be TCS legal). I wish Tamiya would have more support for this car like they do the 04 and 414 models.
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Old 04-29-2002, 12:24 AM   #374
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psycho,

Thanks for your reply. I did some research on the Tam. site and I find that I can convert from tub to Carbon chassis by using the TA03R or RS chassis conversion kit. It includes all the necessary plastic parts to convert from tub to carbon.

However If I were to convert an 03F tub to an 03F carbon chassis I have to get the FRP conversion first then buy the chassis plates.
It needs some plastic parts for the conversion which only comes with the FRP conversion it seems.
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Old 04-29-2002, 07:28 AM   #375
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Default TA-03R

Hop-Ups Installed:

-Full Ball Bearings
-Aluminum Front and Rear Uprights
-Aluminum Knuckles
-0.4 module (64pitch) Spur/pinion set
-Dyna Run Racing Stock Motor
-Novak Explorer II ESC
-JRXR2 Radio Gear
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