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Old 02-20-2002, 04:08 PM   #271
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Psycho-Unfortunately I am going to run those tire and insert combo only. I'll try to buy more tires, but for now, these will have to do. I'll just be running sportsman stock sedan, I would like to try F1, but I need to get rid of some of my other RC's before I buy another one. Also my driving needs to improve before I even attempt it. I don't think there is a sportsman F1 class. I saw Cameron running an F1 at the Castle Classic and it was pretty awesome. For F1, what brand are you running? Do run rubber or foam tires?
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Old 02-20-2002, 04:23 PM   #272
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I would pick up some softer springs if you are running those tires. I think they should be fine, but not with the Tamiya blue springs. I'd run Associated silvers in back and reds or golds up front. Eh, maybe try it and see how it goes. You can always walk over to the shop and pick up springs. I normally run a Tamiya F103 in F1, but I recently got the Cross Fireforce, so I'm hoping that I got it set up the way I want. I've had it on the track 3 times, but never raced it because I had to make major changes to correct something and I didn't want to do it between qualifiers. I run foams on both F1 cars. Those cars are really fun to drive. Don't be afraid to race with Cameron. He's not really agressive, so you don't have to worry when he blows by you. It will be a clean pass or he won't try it. I know that the only way I'll beat him is if he breaks, so I just use his line to judge how my setup is working. Anyways, it's a fun class. Everyone is cool and not super competitive. Plus, you're assured of a berth in the a-main! Well, unless there's more than 10 cars. It looks like the weather will cooperate, so it should be a fun one.
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Old 02-20-2002, 04:47 PM   #273
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Psycho-Thanks for the info regarding the springs. I do have the red and yellow Tamiya springs. So I'll change them out if I need to. I might stop by at Castle today to get more springs and paint for my body. I'll have to see about the F1 class, it looks really fun though.
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Old 02-21-2002, 09:52 AM   #274
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Quote:
Originally posted by psycho
Dayten

I agree on that choice of tire, but I think the firm insert may be a bit too firm. If the budget allows, I'd also pick up another set and put medium inserts in them. This way you can go medium all around or medium rear and firm up front depending on how the car behaves. I find the car comes around a lot with the blue springs in back, so I run Associated silver springs in the rear. Bring a sharpie pen so you can mark your tires and set the camber for the track. You might need to go with a little more camber in the rear, but you won't know unless you mark your tires and check the wear. I would also try to wear in your tires a bit before coming out. With the rain, the old coat of vht has washed away, so it might be a little slicker than normal. If it starts getting warm in the afternoon, you'll be happy you have the 27's. Are you only going to run sedan? I'll be running sedan and F1. If you have an F1 car, bring it! That class is awesome!
psycho~~what's your setting on your 03 that makes the rear end loose? mine pushes fairly bad
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Old 02-21-2002, 10:36 AM   #275
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Fire

I have the David Jun Edition and set it up with the kit instructions/setup. I found that the blue springs in back were a bit too hard. If there were more than one shock position, I'm sure I could have balanced it out by laying the rear shocks down. It is perfect for my driving style with the Associated silver springs in back. If your car is pushing, try going with a softer tire or insert up front. What tires are you running and on what surface?
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Old 02-21-2002, 10:49 AM   #276
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Hey guys correct me if I am wrong. This is my first touring car and I'm a novice (no knowledge) as far as car setups. I have read the following:

Front Diff
For low traction tracks, setting the diff tighter is better because the front end will "pull" the car around the corners almost like a front-wheel-drive car. For tracks with high traction (and if you want to decrease steering), loosen the front diff so the rear end can put more power down to the track.

Rear Diff
Tightening the rear diff will make the car act more aggressively, which is great for high traction tracks. Loosen the diff if you do not want the car too "touchy" and if the rear end of the car seems a little loose.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 02-21-2002, 11:56 AM   #277
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This is true, but these are fine tuning options to get you a few more tenths. I would suggest that you set your diffs as loose as you can get them without slipping. By having the diffs too tight, you will sacrafice steering and possibly encouter strange handling. The only fine tuning that I would suggest is to make sure your ride height is between 4 and 5mm (start with the same height front and back,) check that your camber is the same from right to left and that your front toe is set as close to zero as you can get it. The steering has a lot of slop in it, so I usually try to get no more than 2 degrees of toe out when you pul the front edge of the wheels apart ( I hope that made sense.) You can also try to take the tweak out of the car, but this is hard without a tweak station. Use an x-acto knife to lift the car and make it so both wheels lift off the ground at the same time. Put the tip of the x-acto blade in exactly the center of the forward and back edges of the chassis plate and slowly lift it while trying to watch both tires. Since the car has no droop screws, your shocks must be exactly the same length for this to have the desired effect, but you can probably get pretty close using this method.

Once you get your first race under your belt, you'll have a lot better idea what changes you need to make. Make good use of the practice time. I'd try to get out there around 7:00 so you can get your pit set up and be ready to hit the track when it opens for practice. Try to get at least 2 packs worth of time on the track so you can get familiar with the lines. Watch the fast guys and try to take the same lines that they do. Remember, slower is faster. It seems kind of strange, but if you take it easy around the track, you will have a lot faster lap times than if you try to go full throttle in every straightaway and overshoot the turns or go into the boards. It's also easier to stay out of the carnage if you are relaxing and taking it easy around the track.
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Old 02-21-2002, 12:34 PM   #278
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Psycho-Thanks for the info. I read August's article about setup and tweak on rccar's website. I'll try to set it up as best I can. Cameron said that my diffs was set a little loose, so i'll tighten it a little more.
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Old 02-21-2002, 01:43 PM   #279
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Quote:
Originally posted by psycho
Fire

I have the David Jun Edition and set it up with the kit instructions/setup. I found that the blue springs in back were a bit too hard. If there were more than one shock position, I'm sure I could have balanced it out by laying the rear shocks down. It is perfect for my driving style with the Associated silver springs in back. If your car is pushing, try going with a softer tire or insert up front. What tires are you running and on what surface?
mine is DJ too cool car

i use pit sumizu's 30 with hpi green insert all around on a track set up in parking lot

everything on my car is stock and i use 1 hole pistons for shocks and 27.5 wt oil with blue springs, maybe my servo is too slow?
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Old 02-21-2002, 03:03 PM   #280
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Fire

I'd bet it's your tires causing the push. I would run Shimizu 24's with a medium insert. I'm not sure how firm an HPI green insert is. I would also run a lot heavier weight shock oil. The stock pistons have big holes in them. The kit calls for 60 weight oil as I recall, for the blue spings. It seems to have the right amount of dampening with 60 weight oil. Maybe you're on a really bumpy surface.
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Old 02-21-2002, 08:27 PM   #281
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Quote:
Originally posted by psycho
Fire

I'd bet it's your tires causing the push. I would run Shimizu 24's with a medium insert. I'm not sure how firm an HPI green insert is. I would also run a lot heavier weight shock oil. The stock pistons have big holes in them. The kit calls for 60 weight oil as I recall, for the blue spings. It seems to have the right amount of dampening with 60 weight oil. Maybe you're on a really bumpy surface.
i see, those tires are from summer racing last summer, guess i need to get some tires for cold weather
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Old 02-22-2002, 12:05 PM   #282
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I was wondering how everyone did last weekend. I will be racing my 03F DJV this weekend.
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Old 02-22-2002, 02:13 PM   #283
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I'll be running my car for the first time this coming Sunday.
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Old 02-25-2002, 08:47 AM   #284
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Sold my TA03F Pro, so now I am working on my TA03R-TRF. Do you guys have any baseline setup for the car running on smooth asphalt with a stock motor? Should I set it up the same way as the Pro?


psycho-How did you do with the race on Sunday? What TC did you run? Well I am looking for a new TC to race at castle. One that is durable and easy enough to setup for a novice. I've been told that the XXX-S is not as durable. Looking at the TA04R, TC3, or maybe the Mission. Any thoughts on these cars?
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Old 02-25-2002, 10:21 AM   #285
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Dayten

I'd run Yokomo Sprint mediums all around with Yokomo medium inserts up front and soft inserts in back. Brush some rubber cement on the inside of the tire before you put the soft inserts in of they may flip over inside the tire. No need for the rubber cemnet on the medium inserts. Otherwise, use the stock setup from the kit and mark your tires with a sharpie pen or ballpoint pen. Do a couple laps and look at your tire wear. Adjust your camber based on the tire wear. The track temp wasn't warm enough yesterday for your 27's.

I ran my xxx-s yesterday. I bought the front one-way for it. One word... awesome! That car was made to run a front one-way. It got me the extra lap that I was looking for. The car is pretty durable. If you get one, I would suggest that you make a front bumper brace out of kydex and replace the stock knuckle/hub carrier set with the graphite 4 degree set, replace the rear hub with the graphite 1 degree ones and use e-clips to hold the hingepins rather than the grub screw. Let's see, you want the short front shock shafts and the threaded shock bodies. Other than that, I think the car is very good right out of the box. This is like $60 worth of hopups that make a big improvement on the car. The stock springs have been perfect on carpet and asphalt and run their recommended 80 weight shock oil with the red, 3-hole pistons.
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