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Old 12-01-2001, 09:13 AM   #211
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I only own 2400 and 3000 stickpacks that I use for practice. They fit the TA03 and F103, but they are a bit snug. I leave one battery "door" installed and slide the stick pack, non-leads side first, into the battery compartment. When I install the remaining battery "door" I start by inserting one post and slightly bending the "door" around the battery while inserting the second post. It takes a little extra grunt to get it to go together, but I have seen no ill effects of doing this and have not broken a battery "door." I have been racing two F103's all season, so I'm sure I would see problems from all that battery changing. I hope that explaination helps.
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Old 12-01-2001, 10:19 AM   #212
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Default Then why

I am having some problems? I can not possibly put the another "door" of the battery holder because its longer...so I'll just leave it like that...the battery dont budge even if I drive it hard and make a 180 or sumtin like that...but still I want the door to be there just in case. It really takes some effort to put the battery there and to take it out too...

Thats why I put the 1700 and the 2400 side by side...and I noticed that each 2400 cell is bigger than 1700 cells...and longer too...maybe by 1/2 mm each...but theres 3 so that 1 1/2 mm longer.

Oh well...

Thanks for your reply...
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Old 12-01-2001, 06:49 PM   #213
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It's a little rough, but you could put a wrap of glass tape around the end without the battery "door." I think that should hold it in there, just in case. I'd be concerned about racing the car without the battery secured in there. If you're just bashing, it probably won't make a difference.

LOL Some buddies and I set up a track at my office today for our HPI Micros. I ran my TA03 on it, just to see if it would be possible. The track was so small and narrow, so it was really tough driving that big 1/10 car on it. I did do my fastest laps in that car, though!
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Old 12-02-2001, 11:13 AM   #214
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Default Hey

you the same Psycho in HPI forum? Hows the crabing problem? I think I have the same problem but I dont think of it as a problem tho because I'm just bashing inside our living room going to the dining room. What I do is when turning fast like a 90 degree turn I keep my throttle but only 1/4 so the wheels will keep on turning or the car will slide more. But I say the rear is very loose...its to easy to loose control.

Back on the topic...

Is that a Graphite chassis you have there? My problem solved by the way...I tried your technique of one post at a time...but I'm worried that the door is straining too much...I cant believe I was able to do it because its very tight. Anyways...thanks.
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Old 12-02-2001, 11:49 AM   #215
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Default Re: Hey

Yep, it's me. Damn rain is keeping us off the track these days. It seems to only rain on the weekends! So, we're limited to running Micro's on the big conference room at my office. I have the David Jun Edition TA03F, so it is basically like the TRF car with the front engine configuration. OK, no cool alum bellcranks. It comes with the graphite chassis and top plate. I really like the car. I was hoping to get some serious track time this weekend, because I need to figure out which sedan works best in the various scenarios that I race in. I have a TC3 and a XXX-S as well.

The problem with the micro is that the notchy diffs stay loaded coming out of a turn. I think it's because the car is so light. I did a bunch of mods to it to stop it from traction rolling and fix their screwed up steering design. I drove my buddy's Viper Micro and it handles so much better than my BMW. The wider track and short wheelbase of the Viper makes a huge difference. I got pressured into buying the micro, but it's actually a pretty cool car. It's tough to drive on a technical track, though, so it will help improve my driving if I can get it to handle predictably and consistantly.
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Old 12-02-2001, 10:42 PM   #216
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Default Yup

driving a Micro will definitely improve your driving skills...

Goodluck on your 03...hope you win some races with it.
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Old 12-02-2001, 10:49 PM   #217
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Yeah, thanks! If it ever stops friggin raining here! Oh well, I guess I'll just have to go snowboarding instead! I'm off to Tahoe the next two weekends instead of racing and watching football.
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Old 12-02-2001, 11:49 PM   #218
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psycho-Are you from the Bay Area? What is your baseline setup for your Jun car? I have 2 TA03 Pros hopped up to Jun spec and a TA03R-TRF. I am planning to race one of my pro's with a saddle pack chassis in stock class next year. Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-03-2001, 11:38 AM   #219
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Dayten

Yep. I'm in the South Bay. Are you planning on racing at Castle and Sheldons? If not, you should check them out. Castle doesn't start again until Feb. but Sheldons is trying to race when it doesn't friggin rain! If you race at Castle, the two stock classes have the most entries each race day. I race stock sedan and F1 there. It's a lot of fun. There were a couple guys running TA03's out there this past season.

I just got my DJE TA03F about a month or so, so I have only a little testing with it. I run the stock setup except I found the rear was stepping out a bit on me, so I changed to Associated silver springs in the back. On a Sheldon's like track, the car handled best with Yokomo firm Sprints/Yok medium insert up front and medium Sprint/soft Yok insert in the back. I'm sure that will be too much grip for Castle, though. I plan to add adjustable upper suspension arms before I really race it. I like the car. It has great turn in and handles very predictably. Here's the rest of my setup. I hope to see you out there at Castle and Sheldons!

Front:
Yokomo Sprint Firm/Yokomo medium insert
camber at stock, fixed setting
zero degrees toe
stock shocks with stock, 2 hole piston
60 weight shock oil
Tamiya blue spring
diff tight enough not to slip
4.5mm ride weight
no droop or bump adjustment added
yellow swaybar

Rear:
Yokomo Spring medium/soft insert
camber at stock, fixed setting
stock toe in
stock shocks with stock, 2 hole piston
60 weight shock oil
Associated silver spring
diff tight enough not to slip
4.5mm ride height
no droop or bump adjustment added
yellow swaybar
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Old 12-03-2001, 04:24 PM   #220
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I live several blocks away from Castle. I usually just go there to watch. The races there at Castle are so intense, and I get a little intimidated. I watched the Castle Classic (Electric), which was an awesome event. I know that Sheldonís is been trying to have races but the weather hasnít been cooperating. Iíll start racing at Castle on a regular basis next season with my TA03. My setup is similar to yours on the TA03 but I am running 30WT oil and Blue Springs on all four shocks no sway bars. Iím not sure how well this setup works, havenít had time to test it out. What would be a good tire and insert combo for Castle? I was told Yokomo medium sprints with Yokomo medium molded inserts.

I see that you have a TC3 and XXX-S as well. I was looking into getting the TC3 or the XXX-S to race at Castle. I knew that the XXX-Sís that were at the Classic was performing really well. What are your thoughts on both of those cars?
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Old 12-03-2001, 06:17 PM   #221
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Dayten

Man, If I lived that close to Castle, I'd be completely broke! It's not as bad as you may think, to race there. It is very "businesslike" the way they run the races, so you need to pay attention to quite a few things, but if you know where to park and how to turn marshall, you know the hard stuff. Eric and Cameron are very cool to race with, well everyone is, actually. Stop by the store and talk to them about it before you come out. They can explain what you need to look for, and where to find everything. There is also a driver meeting before qualifying starts and they make it very "newbie friendly." I would start with just one class, though. It gets pretty hectic if you are trying to get two cars ready on your first race day. Sheldons is much more mellow. It's more like if you had a bunch of buddies bashing in a parking lot somewhere. There are much fewer cars, so it doesn't have to be so businesslike. A typical race day at Castle will see 150 to 180 cars. A typical day at Sheldons will see 40 to 50 cars. Give it a shot. Just be courtious when people come up behind you. Pull over in a safe spot and let them by. The most important thing is to be predictable so the other driver knows what you are doing, try not to hack people and say "sorry" if you do. Everyone wants to win and people understand that. As far as your setup goes, I think 30 weight will be way to light at Castle. You can probably get away with that at Sheldons, since it's more bumpy, but you'll traction roll at Castle if you have that little dampening. Everyone's driving style is a little different, so you kind of have to experiment. The Sprint is a good tire. If you only buy one set of tires, I'd buy mediums. Unfortunately, I don't have much track time on my TA03 to give you much advise and I only ran it a few laps at Castle during practice. I will tell you that the backend is way loose with the stock setup and stock tires. That's why I went with a harder tire up front and softer rear setup. The weight is balanced more toward the front of the F configuration, so the car will set up differently than a TC3. You'll probably want to run swaybars at Castle. There are usually a lot of transition turns like chicanes, s-curves, etc, so you want good transition or you'll find the car pushes as you set up for the next turn. You might want to bring the car in that you want to race and have Cameron or Eric help you get it set up. They won't have parts for the car, but they can help you with tire selection and shock setup. I would also get a ride height guage to you can get that set right. I would suggest running a non-Tamiya body so you get better downforce and lower cg. I love the scale of Tamiya sedan bodies, but they're not so good to race with.

I raced the TC3 all summer and just got the XXX-S. I like the TC3. It took me a little while to get the setup right, but it handles very well. I bought the XXX-S planning to run it in mod, but I think 3 classes might be a bit too nutty, since I want to race F1. The XXX-S is an awesome car. I really like it. I think the whir sound from the gears is what gives me the most wood! If you have not raced on a technical track before, you will probably not be too happy with the XXX-S. Some of the stock parts are not very strong. The TC3 seems pretty bulletproof. I've had some really hard hits and driven away without as much as a change in camber. The TA03 seems very strong, so I think that's a good car to race there. The only problem may be the availability of parts. San Antonio does a pretty good job of keeping Tamiya parts in stock. I haven't had the oportunity to directly compare the 3 cars, though. I had hoped to do this at Sheldons last week, but the race was rained out. I decided that I'm only going to run stock sedan, so I need to decide which car will be my primary car.

If you decide to race at Castle, I would stock up on some parts. Here's what I would recommend having in your toolbox as a minimum.

1 Race battery pack 2400 matched cells with 1.16V or 1.17V average per cell or you'll wonder why everyone is blowing by you.

2 "practice packs" The race pack will probably set you back around $90, so these can be cheaper. I use 2400 non-matched packs. You should be able to get good ones for around $50 and cheap ones for $30. You will use one pack during practice and the other during your first qualifier. After practice is over, recharge this pack so it's ready for your second qualifier.

1 complete set of upper and lower suspension arms. Usually a pack is good for either side of the car.

1 front and 1 rear knuckle

Gearing choices. I would start by gearing the car at around 6.00:1, but have pinions to go down around 5.00:1 and up to 7.00:1. You'll have to work out what tooth pinions you need. Castle changes the track configuration every race, so you will need to be able to change gearing to suit the track that week.

Tire/insert combinations. Since you're using Sprints, I'd stick with them. I would have 4 medium tire/medium insert wheels ready to go, 2 firm tire/medium insert and 2 medium tire/soft insert. When you put the soft insert in, brush some rubber cement inside the tire first so the soft insert sticks to the tire. It won't roll over on you that way. Keep in mind, this is what I would recommend as a minimum! I usually have much more than this. You will need to change tires throughout the day. It is rare when I keep the same combination all day long.

Shock support stuff. This is kind of a tough call and it may take you a few weeks to get this figured out. You have 30 weight oil now, so I'd get 40 weight and 60 weight as well. Generally, you'll be in the ballpark with one of those weights. I would buy a complete set of some brand of springs. I like Associated springs because they're not super expensive, they have a wide range of spring rates, their measurement is in lbs, so it makes sense and they fit most shocks. Unfortunately, they don't fit the Losi shocks without modification. I have no idea what will give the best results on the TA03, but it felt pretty good with the setup I'm running. If you want to be able to change shock oil at the track, buy a shock air remover pump. It's $30, but you'll be really happy you spent the money once you use one.

Servo tape. I like the Trinity stuff. It sticks well and isn't too bad to peel off when you need to.

Bring your soldering iron, solder, your charger and extra everything you think you might use. On race days, the shop sells out of the stuff you need to buy, so be prepared. Oh yeah, don't throw away those scraps of lexan when you cut out bodies. You will use them to make all kinds of stuff. You'll need to make a transponder mount that you can get to easily or drill a hole in your race body for it. Obviously, bring your tools. Make sure you have a few channels on your radio. I suggest a minimum of 3 so you aren't waiting forever for a frequency clip during practice. Make sure you have a good brush to clean off the dust and dirt from your motor and other moving parts. I use acid brushes since they are cheap and work well. It's good to have a couple extra wheel nuts and body pins in case you lose them. You will need one for the transponder. Generally everyone is very cool about letting you borrow stuff as long as your request is reasonable.

Hopefully I didn't scare you too much! Seriously, though, if you are prepared, you'll have a good race day. Maybe race at Sheldons, when you can, to get the idea of how the heats run and how to read the results board to know which heats you're in, which channel you're on, which transponder you are using, etc. That's a good way to get your feet wet. I hope to see you out there!
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Old 12-05-2001, 03:17 PM   #222
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Psycho


Wow, Thanks for the insight for racing at Castle. I have several questions about qualifying and the mains. Iíve raced twice at Hobby World and they had two 4minute qualifiers and a 4-minute main on race day. Does Castle have that as well or do they run 5 minute qualifiers and 5 minute mains. I run matched 1700 SCR Cells and I havenít tried it on a 5-minute race. I guess I just have to gear down if need be. Once again thank you for giving me great valuable information.
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Old 12-05-2001, 05:30 PM   #223
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The heat times vary by the class you run in. This is also subject to change based on a vote before the beginning of the season. Here's the way they ran last season. The qualifiers were the same length as the races.

Stock sedan 5 minutes
Mod sedan 4 minutes
F1 6 minutes
1/12th scale 8 minutes

In nitro, all the qualifiers are 5 minutes. The A and B mains are usually 10 or 15 minutes. All the rest are 5 minutes. If you're worried about runtime, bring your stopwatch and time yourself during practice and make changes accordingly. You should be ok with 1700's in 5 minute heats if you run in Sportsman Stock. Gear the car around 6:1 and you'll be in the ballpark.

Last edited by psycho; 12-05-2001 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 12-05-2001, 05:37 PM   #224
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Dayten

One more thing. Sheldons is racing this Sat. Check www.rcracing.com message board for details. Race there and you'll get a good idea of what to expect. I'm snowboarding this weekend, or I'd be there!
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Old 12-05-2001, 10:26 PM   #225
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Thanks for the input regarding Castle races. I'll most likely be running in the sportsman stock class for next season. I would like to race at Sheldon's but I don't think that my car will be ready for Saturday. I have allot of work to get my car race ready.
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