3LikesTamiya TRF415
05-05-2006, 09:10 AM
Charles: I'm just buying parts from them, already got my MSX 
they are the only ones I could find with Square parts and the delrin outdrives for the spool. Presicionrc.com has the kit for under 440.. I order from them lots
they are the only ones I could find with Square parts and the delrin outdrives for the spool. Presicionrc.com has the kit for under 440.. I order from them lots
05-05-2006, 05:13 PM
Tech Elite
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Location: Asphalt Unlimited Customs, Baltimore MD
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Hey all, gettin my first TRF415 soon. Not sure if it's standard 415 or MS or MSX or what have you. One thing, what body size is it, 190 or 200mm? Also, is there anything i should know to fix before i start racing it? Thanks.
05-05-2006, 05:31 PM
Originally Posted by HotrodHopkins
Hey all, gettin my first TRF415 soon. Not sure if it's standard 415 or MS or MSX or what have you. One thing, what body size is it, 190 or 200mm? Also, is there anything i should know to fix before i start racing it? Thanks.
05-05-2006, 05:33 PM
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thanks alot!!!
-HotrodHopkins
P.S. is the pontiac G6 body any good?
-HotrodHopkins
P.S. is the pontiac G6 body any good?
05-06-2006, 06:14 AM
Tech Elite
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does anyone know a link to a PDF manual of the TRF415?
05-06-2006, 07:10 AM
Originally Posted by HotrodHopkins
does anyone know a link to a PDF manual of the TRF415?
The G6 is a carpet body, from what I have heard is pretty good, but I have never run it personally. If you are running on asphalt it is pretty hard to beat the Maxda 6 body.
05-06-2006, 07:20 AM
Tech Elite
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ok, thanks. what is the difference between a carpet body and an asphault one, won't a carpet work fine on asphault?
05-06-2006, 07:30 AM
Originally Posted by HotrodHopkins
ok, thanks. what is the difference between a carpet body and an asphault one, won't a carpet work fine on asphault?
05-06-2006, 07:33 AM
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ok, sounds reasonable, thanks alot!
05-06-2006, 07:36 AM
Tech Master
Originally Posted by Crashmaster
Evening all,
Got a question for you on setup. Had first outdoor race yesterday, and had a few issues with the car. Was fast as anything else there (which I was quite pleased with), but I did seem to suffer with a lack of rear end grip, would have the tendacy to almost snap round on the entrance to the corner. Other times it would just loose all rear end grip for about a lap, however I think that was more to do with the intermitant rain....
my setup was:
Front:
LW suspension, mounted on 3rd hole
3rd hole on shock towers
B-C blocks
4mm hex's
60wt oil, 3 hole pistons
yellow springs
-1 deg camber
4 deg hubs
ride height 5.5mm
droop 5mm
Rear:
LW suspension, 3rd hole
3rd hole on tower
X-B blocks
1 deg hubs
middle hub hole
5mm hex
60wt, 3 hole shocks
yellow springs
-1 deg camber
droop 4mm
Other:
std MSX role centre and inner stud position
Peak DS 8x1
Mazda 6 body with std wing
3mm chassis
I was thinging that a change to X-C block (2.5 deg rear toe) would do a good move, aswell as maybe lengthening the wheel base, but don't know if thats the way to go?
Cheers
Dan Chambers
Got a question for you on setup. Had first outdoor race yesterday, and had a few issues with the car. Was fast as anything else there (which I was quite pleased with), but I did seem to suffer with a lack of rear end grip, would have the tendacy to almost snap round on the entrance to the corner. Other times it would just loose all rear end grip for about a lap, however I think that was more to do with the intermitant rain....
my setup was:
Front:
LW suspension, mounted on 3rd hole
3rd hole on shock towers
B-C blocks
4mm hex's
60wt oil, 3 hole pistons
yellow springs
-1 deg camber
4 deg hubs
ride height 5.5mm
droop 5mm
Rear:
LW suspension, 3rd hole
3rd hole on tower
X-B blocks
1 deg hubs
middle hub hole
5mm hex
60wt, 3 hole shocks
yellow springs
-1 deg camber
droop 4mm
Other:
std MSX role centre and inner stud position
Peak DS 8x1
Mazda 6 body with std wing
3mm chassis
I was thinging that a change to X-C block (2.5 deg rear toe) would do a good move, aswell as maybe lengthening the wheel base, but don't know if thats the way to go?
Cheers
Dan Chambers
i used a set of cs22 at stafford and back end was all over the place,tried a rp30 alot better.
also try 3deg rear toe,very good
05-06-2006, 07:55 AM
Originally Posted by Crashmaster
Evening all,
Got a question for you on setup. Had first outdoor race yesterday, and had a few issues with the car. Was fast as anything else there (which I was quite pleased with), but I did seem to suffer with a lack of rear end grip, would have the tendacy to almost snap round on the entrance to the corner. Other times it would just loose all rear end grip for about a lap, however I think that was more to do with the intermitant rain....
my setup was:
Front:
LW suspension, mounted on 3rd hole
3rd hole on shock towers
B-C blocks
4mm hex's
60wt oil, 3 hole pistons
yellow springs
-1 deg camber
4 deg hubs
ride height 5.5mm
droop 5mm
Rear:
LW suspension, 3rd hole
3rd hole on tower
X-B blocks
1 deg hubs
middle hub hole
5mm hex
60wt, 3 hole shocks
yellow springs
-1 deg camber
droop 4mm
Other:
std MSX role centre and inner stud position
Peak DS 8x1
Mazda 6 body with std wing
3mm chassis
I was thinging that a change to X-C block (2.5 deg rear toe) would do a good move, aswell as maybe lengthening the wheel base, but don't know if thats the way to go?
Cheers
Dan Chambers
Got a question for you on setup. Had first outdoor race yesterday, and had a few issues with the car. Was fast as anything else there (which I was quite pleased with), but I did seem to suffer with a lack of rear end grip, would have the tendacy to almost snap round on the entrance to the corner. Other times it would just loose all rear end grip for about a lap, however I think that was more to do with the intermitant rain....
my setup was:
Front:
LW suspension, mounted on 3rd hole
3rd hole on shock towers
B-C blocks
4mm hex's
60wt oil, 3 hole pistons
yellow springs
-1 deg camber
4 deg hubs
ride height 5.5mm
droop 5mm
Rear:
LW suspension, 3rd hole
3rd hole on tower
X-B blocks
1 deg hubs
middle hub hole
5mm hex
60wt, 3 hole shocks
yellow springs
-1 deg camber
droop 4mm
Other:
std MSX role centre and inner stud position
Peak DS 8x1
Mazda 6 body with std wing
3mm chassis
I was thinging that a change to X-C block (2.5 deg rear toe) would do a good move, aswell as maybe lengthening the wheel base, but don't know if thats the way to go?
Cheers
Dan Chambers
05-06-2006, 09:50 AM
Was running direct centre drive and spool (no-oneways). Tyre wise, was running Vtec 24r's with TQ orange additive. Are the rp30's good for long, or a one run tyre, also do you really need tyre warmers with them?
Cheers
Dan Chambers
Cheers
Dan Chambers
05-06-2006, 10:08 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
What does inboard tow out do on the front suspension as aposed to no tow.
Ex. running tha A bridge and D block up front.
Ex. running tha A bridge and D block up front.
05-06-2006, 10:36 AM
Originally Posted by JoeGlover
What does inboard tow out do on the front suspension as aposed to no tow.
Ex. running tha A bridge and D block up front.
Ex. running tha A bridge and D block up front.
Most drivers use B-A up front now days, works really good and have a nice balance!!
05-06-2006, 03:50 PM
Originally Posted by Crashmaster
Was running direct centre drive and spool (no-oneways). Tyre wise, was running Vtec 24r's with TQ orange additive. Are the rp30's good for long, or a one run tyre, also do you really need tyre warmers with them?
Cheers
Dan Chambers
Cheers
Dan Chambers