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Old 12-05-2005, 07:05 AM
  #11641  
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Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
I have ordered a 415 refine 2 kit i could do with some build tips for this car.
Do I need to round the chassis edges and glue them and file the battery slots?
Is it advisable to drill the shock pistons out to 1.2 mm to reduce pack.
Do I need to get ceramic balls for the rear diff i have been told the old one wears fast.
Is the kit setup a good starting point for rubber tyres at D V?
Any tip would be helpful for me to know Plus i really don't want to trawl through 219 pages to find out this info !! I hate the search engine:P
Yes smooth all the edges of the carbon parts and then seal them with CA. Also make sure you chamfer the battery slots to stop the sharp edges cutting the cells heatshrink.

Leave the shock pistons as they are, there is no drilling needed.

Diff balls i changed for ceramics and i think i would always do this.
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Old 12-05-2005, 08:01 AM
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A tip when filing, file down the outer servo mounting hole AND screw (don't file it so much that you can't unscrew it) to prevent it from scraping and collecting rubber. By filing this much you can lower the car about 0,5 mm without scraping the "ear"
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Old 12-05-2005, 09:52 AM
  #11643  
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Anybody have a 3mm chassis from the standard 415 that they would like to part with?
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Old 12-05-2005, 12:03 PM
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Default Where can i get ceramic diff balls cheap?

The ceramic diff balls what size are they 2.4mm ?
Is axiom the best place?

The thrust washer/balls would you replace it with one of a higher specification?

Also where can i get a Kimbourgh servo saver for the KO spline in the uk ? I have one on my 1/12th car but that was given to me.

I have ordered spare wishbones but not sure about the blocks, I usally run 2 degrees of rear toe and I am happy with that.
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Old 12-05-2005, 01:58 PM
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The diff balls are 3mm.
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Old 12-05-2005, 02:07 PM
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Acer's line of diff balls

I am using Acer's Ceramic Nitride Pro Series Differential Balls and they make for an ultra smooth diff. I also used the Yokomo diff plates, they last a bit better and stay smoother than the Tamiya ones.
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Old 12-05-2005, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jack2
Acer's line of diff balls

I am using Acer's Ceramic Nitride Pro Series Differential Balls and they make for an ultra smooth diff. I also used the Yokomo diff plates, they last a bit better and stay smoother than the Tamiya ones.
What's the model number for the Yokomo diff plates?
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Old 12-05-2005, 03:20 PM
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Part #: ZS-506

I got them from Champ

Last edited by Jack2; 12-06-2005 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 12-05-2005, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Jack2
Part #: ZS-506

I got hem from Champ
Ta, I'm doing an order to RC Champ for the 415 MSX I have on preorder, and already have the Acer diff balls, but want to make sure it is low maintainence as possible.
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Old 12-06-2005, 02:09 AM
  #11650  
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Hi Guys,

Could someone tell me are the titanium coated shock shafts for the TRF shocks 3mm or 1/8" diameter?

Cheers
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Old 12-06-2005, 05:33 AM
  #11651  
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I think all of the TRF shock shafts are 3mm.
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Old 12-06-2005, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Burlap
Ta, I'm doing an order to RC Champ for the 415 MSX I have on preorder, and already have the Acer diff balls, but want to make sure it is low maintainence as possible.

I recently started using the APS cermamic diff balls for the cleveland race. I have to say they are very smooth and last much much longer than normal diff balls. I just replace the diff plates and re-use the diff balls and the diff is as smooth as the first time. I have replaced the diff rings 4 times already and I am still using the same APS cermaic diff balls. You might want to check them out at www.magmarc.com.
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Old 12-06-2005, 11:12 AM
  #11653  
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Matrin, do you have a setup for foam/carpet using the LIGHTWEIGHT suspension?
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Old 12-06-2005, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by CIVIC91
Matrin, do you have a setup for foam/carpet using the LIGHTWEIGHT suspension?
I use the same setup for the lw as I do the original one.


Front:

droop - 1mm
springs - 33lbs
oil -80 orion
shock Pos. - 3 holes in on shock tower. inner of 3 holes arm
inside upper links - 5mm spacer (take away spacers if you want more steering)
ackerman - rear holes on HPI knuckles, swept back bell crank
blocks - A and A no spacers
caster - 4 degrees
sway bars - Blue ( I am also going to try no swaybar and yellow swaybar)
toe out - none
wheel hub spacers - 0mm
belt - position 1
lw suspension - camber 1.5
wheel base - 3mm forward (using original 415 (not ms) chassis)
ride height - 5 mm

Rear:

droop - 1mm
springs - 28 to 30lb spring
oil - 80 orion
shock pos - two holes in on shock tower, inner of three holes on arm
inside upper links - no spacers
outside upper link - 0.7
upper link length - middle hole on upright
blocks - d and b, no spacers
upright - 1 degree allum (total 2.0 toe in)
wheel base - 3mm forward
belt - position 2
ride height - 5 mm
lw suspension - camber 1.5 inside tire (right) 2.0 on outside tire (left)
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Old 12-06-2005, 02:48 PM
  #11655  
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Originally Posted by Martin Crisp
I use the same setup for the lw as I do the original one.


Front:

droop - 1mm
springs - 33lbs
oil -80 orion
shock Pos. - 3 holes in on shock tower. inner of 3 holes arm
inside upper links - 5mm spacer (take away spacers if you want more steering)
ackerman - rear holes on HPI knuckles, swept back bell crank
blocks - A and A no spacers
caster - 4 degrees
sway bars - Blue ( I am also going to try no swaybar and yellow swaybar)
toe out - none
wheel hub spacers - 0mm
belt - position 1
lw suspension - camber 1.5
wheel base - 3mm forward (using original 415 (not ms) chassis)
ride height - 5 mm

Rear:

droop - 1mm
springs - 28 to 30lb spring
oil - 80 orion
shock pos - two holes in on shock tower, inner of three holes on arm
inside upper links - no spacers
outside upper link - 0.7
upper link length - middle hole on upright
blocks - d and b, no spacers
upright - 1 degree allum (total 2.0 toe in)
wheel base - 3mm forward
belt - position 2
ride height - 5 mm
lw suspension - camber 1.5 inside tire (right) 2.0 on outside tire (left)
what tires are you running ?
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