Tamiya TRF415
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
I have ordered a 415 refine 2 kit i could do with some build tips for this car.
Do I need to round the chassis edges and glue them and file the battery slots?
Is it advisable to drill the shock pistons out to 1.2 mm to reduce pack.
Do I need to get ceramic balls for the rear diff i have been told the old one wears fast.
Is the kit setup a good starting point for rubber tyres at D V?
Any tip would be helpful for me to know Plus i really don't want to trawl through 219 pages to find out this info !! I hate the search engine:P
Do I need to round the chassis edges and glue them and file the battery slots?
Is it advisable to drill the shock pistons out to 1.2 mm to reduce pack.
Do I need to get ceramic balls for the rear diff i have been told the old one wears fast.
Is the kit setup a good starting point for rubber tyres at D V?
Any tip would be helpful for me to know Plus i really don't want to trawl through 219 pages to find out this info !! I hate the search engine:P
Leave the shock pistons as they are, there is no drilling needed.
Diff balls i changed for ceramics and i think i would always do this.
A tip when filing, file down the outer servo mounting hole AND screw (don't file it so much that you can't unscrew it) to prevent it from scraping and collecting rubber. By filing this much you can lower the car about 0,5 mm without scraping the "ear"
Tech Champion
iTrader: (108)
Anybody have a 3mm chassis from the standard 415 that they would like to part with?
Tech Regular
Where can i get ceramic diff balls cheap?
The ceramic diff balls what size are they 2.4mm ?
Is axiom the best place?
The thrust washer/balls would you replace it with one of a higher specification?
Also where can i get a Kimbourgh servo saver for the KO spline in the uk ? I have one on my 1/12th car but that was given to me.
I have ordered spare wishbones but not sure about the blocks, I usally run 2 degrees of rear toe and I am happy with that.
Is axiom the best place?
The thrust washer/balls would you replace it with one of a higher specification?
Also where can i get a Kimbourgh servo saver for the KO spline in the uk ? I have one on my 1/12th car but that was given to me.
I have ordered spare wishbones but not sure about the blocks, I usally run 2 degrees of rear toe and I am happy with that.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
The diff balls are 3mm.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Acer's line of diff balls
I am using Acer's Ceramic Nitride Pro Series Differential Balls and they make for an ultra smooth diff. I also used the Yokomo diff plates, they last a bit better and stay smoother than the Tamiya ones.
I am using Acer's Ceramic Nitride Pro Series Differential Balls and they make for an ultra smooth diff. I also used the Yokomo diff plates, they last a bit better and stay smoother than the Tamiya ones.
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by Jack2
Acer's line of diff balls
I am using Acer's Ceramic Nitride Pro Series Differential Balls and they make for an ultra smooth diff. I also used the Yokomo diff plates, they last a bit better and stay smoother than the Tamiya ones.
I am using Acer's Ceramic Nitride Pro Series Differential Balls and they make for an ultra smooth diff. I also used the Yokomo diff plates, they last a bit better and stay smoother than the Tamiya ones.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Part #: ZS-506
I got them from Champ
I got them from Champ
Last edited by Jack2; 12-06-2005 at 02:58 PM.
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by Jack2
Part #: ZS-506
I got hem from Champ
I got hem from Champ
Hi Guys,
Could someone tell me are the titanium coated shock shafts for the TRF shocks 3mm or 1/8" diameter?
Cheers
Could someone tell me are the titanium coated shock shafts for the TRF shocks 3mm or 1/8" diameter?
Cheers
I think all of the TRF shock shafts are 3mm.
Originally Posted by Burlap
Ta, I'm doing an order to RC Champ for the 415 MSX I have on preorder, and already have the Acer diff balls, but want to make sure it is low maintainence as possible.
I recently started using the APS cermamic diff balls for the cleveland race. I have to say they are very smooth and last much much longer than normal diff balls. I just replace the diff plates and re-use the diff balls and the diff is as smooth as the first time. I have replaced the diff rings 4 times already and I am still using the same APS cermaic diff balls. You might want to check them out at www.magmarc.com.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (108)
Matrin, do you have a setup for foam/carpet using the LIGHTWEIGHT suspension?
Originally Posted by CIVIC91
Matrin, do you have a setup for foam/carpet using the LIGHTWEIGHT suspension?
Front:
droop - 1mm
springs - 33lbs
oil -80 orion
shock Pos. - 3 holes in on shock tower. inner of 3 holes arm
inside upper links - 5mm spacer (take away spacers if you want more steering)
ackerman - rear holes on HPI knuckles, swept back bell crank
blocks - A and A no spacers
caster - 4 degrees
sway bars - Blue ( I am also going to try no swaybar and yellow swaybar)
toe out - none
wheel hub spacers - 0mm
belt - position 1
lw suspension - camber 1.5
wheel base - 3mm forward (using original 415 (not ms) chassis)
ride height - 5 mm
Rear:
droop - 1mm
springs - 28 to 30lb spring
oil - 80 orion
shock pos - two holes in on shock tower, inner of three holes on arm
inside upper links - no spacers
outside upper link - 0.7
upper link length - middle hole on upright
blocks - d and b, no spacers
upright - 1 degree allum (total 2.0 toe in)
wheel base - 3mm forward
belt - position 2
ride height - 5 mm
lw suspension - camber 1.5 inside tire (right) 2.0 on outside tire (left)
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by Martin Crisp
I use the same setup for the lw as I do the original one.
Front:
droop - 1mm
springs - 33lbs
oil -80 orion
shock Pos. - 3 holes in on shock tower. inner of 3 holes arm
inside upper links - 5mm spacer (take away spacers if you want more steering)
ackerman - rear holes on HPI knuckles, swept back bell crank
blocks - A and A no spacers
caster - 4 degrees
sway bars - Blue ( I am also going to try no swaybar and yellow swaybar)
toe out - none
wheel hub spacers - 0mm
belt - position 1
lw suspension - camber 1.5
wheel base - 3mm forward (using original 415 (not ms) chassis)
ride height - 5 mm
Rear:
droop - 1mm
springs - 28 to 30lb spring
oil - 80 orion
shock pos - two holes in on shock tower, inner of three holes on arm
inside upper links - no spacers
outside upper link - 0.7
upper link length - middle hole on upright
blocks - d and b, no spacers
upright - 1 degree allum (total 2.0 toe in)
wheel base - 3mm forward
belt - position 2
ride height - 5 mm
lw suspension - camber 1.5 inside tire (right) 2.0 on outside tire (left)
Front:
droop - 1mm
springs - 33lbs
oil -80 orion
shock Pos. - 3 holes in on shock tower. inner of 3 holes arm
inside upper links - 5mm spacer (take away spacers if you want more steering)
ackerman - rear holes on HPI knuckles, swept back bell crank
blocks - A and A no spacers
caster - 4 degrees
sway bars - Blue ( I am also going to try no swaybar and yellow swaybar)
toe out - none
wheel hub spacers - 0mm
belt - position 1
lw suspension - camber 1.5
wheel base - 3mm forward (using original 415 (not ms) chassis)
ride height - 5 mm
Rear:
droop - 1mm
springs - 28 to 30lb spring
oil - 80 orion
shock pos - two holes in on shock tower, inner of three holes on arm
inside upper links - no spacers
outside upper link - 0.7
upper link length - middle hole on upright
blocks - d and b, no spacers
upright - 1 degree allum (total 2.0 toe in)
wheel base - 3mm forward
belt - position 2
ride height - 5 mm
lw suspension - camber 1.5 inside tire (right) 2.0 on outside tire (left)