Tamiya TRF415
#8176
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Originally posted by Burlap
I've given my 415 a big overhaul over the weekend. I've set it up with a layout another bloke has run at my track, with shocks angled the way he had them (a link to how he had his car setup here: http://members.iinet.net.au/~a.parre...ps/Boronia.gif ), put white springs on the front, blue at the back, and yellow stabiliser bars front and back.
Haven't checked toe or camber yet, as I'll check on a setup board this Wednesday. But I'll set the camber the same as what Tony did.
With rear toe I am keeping the blocks/bulkheads the same as what is in the Tamiya manual, 1Ds at the rear and 1C at the front for 0.5 toe in. However I do not know how much toe my rear uprights have since they are aluminium ones fashioned on the lightweight/Evo IV ones, and there is no number stamped on them for how much toe they give.
I am running 27 turn stock and trying to dial out some of the understeer it has. See how it goes Wednesday night.
EDIT: Tryhard your site rocks. Learnt so much about chassis setup from it, as well as tips from other friends.
I've given my 415 a big overhaul over the weekend. I've set it up with a layout another bloke has run at my track, with shocks angled the way he had them (a link to how he had his car setup here: http://members.iinet.net.au/~a.parre...ps/Boronia.gif ), put white springs on the front, blue at the back, and yellow stabiliser bars front and back.
Haven't checked toe or camber yet, as I'll check on a setup board this Wednesday. But I'll set the camber the same as what Tony did.
With rear toe I am keeping the blocks/bulkheads the same as what is in the Tamiya manual, 1Ds at the rear and 1C at the front for 0.5 toe in. However I do not know how much toe my rear uprights have since they are aluminium ones fashioned on the lightweight/Evo IV ones, and there is no number stamped on them for how much toe they give.
I am running 27 turn stock and trying to dial out some of the understeer it has. See how it goes Wednesday night.
EDIT: Tryhard your site rocks. Learnt so much about chassis setup from it, as well as tips from other friends.
#8177
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Haura415,
You can try putting anti-wear greese on the drive pins, Done that on mine and no chatter. (Speedtech spool, std axles)
It's a pain though, as the greese picks up dirt quite easily. Just as long as you clean the car regulary (and re greese when needed) shouldn't be to much of a problem though.
BTW, i have steering dual rate on my car at 75-80%, with 115%-120% on end points.
Burlap,
Glad you find the site useful, I have added a few bits to it over the past few days (few more setups), plus i'm trying to get setups off a few of the top 415 drivers over here...
HiH
Ed
You can try putting anti-wear greese on the drive pins, Done that on mine and no chatter. (Speedtech spool, std axles)
It's a pain though, as the greese picks up dirt quite easily. Just as long as you clean the car regulary (and re greese when needed) shouldn't be to much of a problem though.
BTW, i have steering dual rate on my car at 75-80%, with 115%-120% on end points.
Burlap,
Glad you find the site useful, I have added a few bits to it over the past few days (few more setups), plus i'm trying to get setups off a few of the top 415 drivers over here...
HiH
Ed
Last edited by TryHard; 04-11-2005 at 08:40 AM.
#8178
Originally posted by F. Alonso
There was a LOT of talk about it on the Evo IV forum a month or so ago. I used the Evo IV at the Summernats with the same type of suspension and I didn't really have any problems with it. I used 6mm hexes with it though but you could still just use 2mm worth of spacers on the front hexes to get the same effect. I also had to cut down the front wheels + rim by about a mm or so, that's the only thing that I really had to do.
Check out the Evo IV thread, your answer is there FOR SURE.... just it could take some time.
There was a LOT of talk about it on the Evo IV forum a month or so ago. I used the Evo IV at the Summernats with the same type of suspension and I didn't really have any problems with it. I used 6mm hexes with it though but you could still just use 2mm worth of spacers on the front hexes to get the same effect. I also had to cut down the front wheels + rim by about a mm or so, that's the only thing that I really had to do.
Check out the Evo IV thread, your answer is there FOR SURE.... just it could take some time.
#8179
Tech Initiate
just thought i would let you guys know the xray blades will work on the jurgen spool. They are alittle big and the corally blades are definately the way to go but you can use the xray blades if you have to. To make sure they didn't fly off i cut 3/8 of an inch heat shrink and slipped it over the blades and the ends of the outdrives. I carefull shrunk just half the heat shrink so that it wouldn't cause the cvd to bind up. I was able to put 10 packs through the car running mod with no problems.
#8180
Originally posted by TRAJ
Anyone??
Anyone??
You can use HPI Pro 4 steering knuckles. You'll also have to use their bearings (5 x 10 I think), and the old suspension tamiya axles.
#8181
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Originally posted by TRAJ
Hi Alonso do you run foams on your MS?
Hi Alonso do you run foams on your MS?
#8182
Originally posted by E.J. Evans
Hey TRAJ,
You can use HPI Pro 4 steering knuckles. You'll also have to use their bearings (5 x 10 I think), and the old suspension tamiya axles.
Hey TRAJ,
You can use HPI Pro 4 steering knuckles. You'll also have to use their bearings (5 x 10 I think), and the old suspension tamiya axles.
Thanks for your advice
#8183
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Also guys.... I was having my front belt flip over on the center pulley and I was wondering what I should do about the tension of the belt on the front bulkheads. This is my first belt drive car so this is the area which I'm pretty... unsure about. How far should I go with it and what would you guys suggest for that as far as creating a more tort belt?? I'm thinking only a few turns around the bulkhead but any help would be great.
#8184
Originally posted by F. Alonso
I've only ever raced Foams at the 2005 Summernats and that was with the Evo IV. I'm sure you could do it with the 415MS but down here in Melbourne, its rubber only really. For any NSW meets or something that I will go to.... I'll be running foams though. Much quicker the Rubbers, at least if its been VHTed!!
I've only ever raced Foams at the 2005 Summernats and that was with the Evo IV. I'm sure you could do it with the 415MS but down here in Melbourne, its rubber only really. For any NSW meets or something that I will go to.... I'll be running foams though. Much quicker the Rubbers, at least if its been VHTed!!
#8185
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Yes... I did have a problem. I was using the square aluminium front uprights as well so I didn't really know if it was a problem that was the same as the plastic uprights, but I used 6mm clamp type wheel hubs (from F201) and I also cut the foams down from 26mm to around 25mm or so. I honestly don't think that you would notice MUCH of a difference in grip by losing 2mm collectively. That was all I did, and I had plenty of grip, like everyone at Summernats.
#8186
Thanks
I just dont get it! Why would they not have thought about this issue!?!
Thanks for you help
I just dont get it! Why would they not have thought about this issue!?!
Thanks for you help
#8187
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
F.Alonso,
what tension are you running at the moment?
I've have mine on stock tension, however a) the belts i have are quite old, and b) i'm running 27t stock.
With new belts, I'll run -1 both front and rear.
For mod, you could try going to +1, even +2 clicks on the bulkhead. should stop them flipping.
Regards
Ed
what tension are you running at the moment?
I've have mine on stock tension, however a) the belts i have are quite old, and b) i'm running 27t stock.
With new belts, I'll run -1 both front and rear.
For mod, you could try going to +1, even +2 clicks on the bulkhead. should stop them flipping.
Regards
Ed
#8188
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
TRAJ - Sure no problems mate. I'd just get 2mm worth of spacers on either side and then cut the wheel down a mm or so on either side, unless you ahve the 6mm hubs.
Tryhard - I'm running the kit tension at the moment which by memory is like pointing downwards. I think that you are right and I'll try to move it +1 or +2 around and see how it goes. Just wanted to make sure of that before I do it, cause theres a few screws to take out to do that change.
Tryhard - I'm running the kit tension at the moment which by memory is like pointing downwards. I think that you are right and I'll try to move it +1 or +2 around and see how it goes. Just wanted to make sure of that before I do it, cause theres a few screws to take out to do that change.
#8189
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Also guys.... I was having my front belt flip over on the center pulley and I was wondering what I should do about the tension of the belt on the front bulkheads. This is my first belt drive car so this is the area which I'm pretty... unsure about. How far should I go with it and what would you guys suggest for that as far as creating a more tort belt?? I'm thinking only a few turns around the bulkhead but any help would be great.
Also guys.... I was having my front belt flip over on the center pulley and I was wondering what I should do about the tension of the belt on the front bulkheads. This is my first belt drive car so this is the area which I'm pretty... unsure about. How far should I go with it and what would you guys suggest for that as far as creating a more tort belt?? I'm thinking only a few turns around the bulkhead but any help would be great.
Front belt is one notch looser than in the manual but I´m running the belt tensioner. Rear is one notch tighter. The belts had stretched a little now and are running very loose but it´s working very good with the low friction belts.
#8190
Tech Champion
iTrader: (42)
Originally posted by TRAJ
Thanks
I just dont get it! Why would they not have thought about this issue!?!
Thanks for you help
Thanks
I just dont get it! Why would they not have thought about this issue!?!
Thanks for you help
As people have stated....a quick fix might just be the 6mm hexes. They should solved your clearance problems without having to buy Pro4 knuckles and bearings.
If you have both the LW suspension and standard...try running the standard. 28mm foams fit fine with it.