Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I might have to wait until Losi puts theirs into production just so I can get that hardened steel sleeve they are using.

pookat

Nice one, i've saved it this time

The rock is my closest track, I figure I can copy most of that setup onto the ms (when it gets here!) then tune it and learn the car at the same time.

Works in theory anyway.
Have you raced it much lately?

Hugo

iTrader: (1)

Hi,

I'm looking for black low friction belts. Do you know, guys, who makes these parts?
Are they as goog as the tamiya white ones?

Thanks

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

The black belts are standard, the white belts are the low friction ones.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

There are a number of Japanese companies that sell black low friction belts. If I remember correctly, Rush was one of them. I haven't used any belts from any other companies but you can try looking through Speedtech's site for some and perhaps dropping Steve a PM. You can also try the Japanese sites if Steve can't get a hold of them.

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Low friction belt makers for the 415
TECH
ECHO
RUSH
TAMIYA
OVA
they are all close in price but the ECHO and OVA belts are the thinner of the abouve belts
-Dave

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Yokomo RaySpeed MIP CVD bones are 44mm.. if that helps any.

I currently run an after market low friction black belt on my car. I forgot who makes it though... Maybe Echo?? I don't remember. It's posted like.... 6 months ago hehe... I got that one before the Tamiya White belts came out. If you do a search you can find it.

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

Kilruf, would the fit, I think so, which yokomo?

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Go to SpeedtechRC... it's the only CVD's that RaySpeed sells. It's for the SD.....

dawgmeat

iTrader: (9)

I don't think it will work because of the drive cup clearance, this is a pic using the A-bridge/C-block with the stock 42mm dog bone, now if the Mip is 44mm I don't see how it will work but I assumming that it will work with the D bridge

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Cool, np.

You might want to try running the outswept arms on the front too.
Some useful pointers that might help...
On the MS, position 3 for the lower shock arms is equivilant to the outer hole on the std arms.

Also, run the camber links in the kit setup for the MS, with the Std suspension is different from the one for the lwt suspension.
Also use B for the rear hub carrier upper camber link.

Unfortuantly I haven't had much chance to race my 415 recently, i've got a number of things to try out on the car before the next BIWS round... mainly new batts and narrower front blocks.

Hope it helps
Ed

Customworksking

iTrader: (74)

can anyone help me find the part # for the light weight screw set for the 415 ?

C_O_jones

iTrader: (11)

The MIP question got me digging thru my old stuff box,
MIP # 1450 Kit KAWADA SV 10
The outer stub axle hex pin hole is 2mm further out than Tamiya, but the dog bone is 46mm.
This might help with foam tires for clearance, then use the Worlds susp blocks to bring the wheel base back in..
I measured this off my lightweight kit.
I will check with Dan Garber to get his opinion tomorro.
Fred

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Drive cups are not a problem because you can always switch them to EvoIV/LW drive cups which sit further in. You can always space those outwards if needed.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Hey Dave, do you have part #'s for either the Echo or Ova belts and a place where I can get them?