3LikesTamiya TRF415
07-27-2008, 10:54 PM
Gday guys
as far as the batteries are concerned NO you don't have to grid any part off the bulk head PERFECT fit.
SMC 4000 are the ideal lipo combined with a G.T.Power A6 Charger wich gives you all of the settings for lilo/lipo/life,nicad/nimhand lead acid.
As well as a program for your pc (simple program) you can save all of your datta from each battery.
Steven
as far as the batteries are concerned NO you don't have to grid any part off the bulk head PERFECT fit.
SMC 4000 are the ideal lipo combined with a G.T.Power A6 Charger wich gives you all of the settings for lilo/lipo/life,nicad/nimhand lead acid.
As well as a program for your pc (simple program) you can save all of your datta from each battery.
Steven
How are those SMC 4000's 28c's running for ya? Or is it still worth going to the 5000 or 5400 with some grinding?
I'm looking at Lipo's now and moving away from the nimh packs
07-28-2008, 01:08 AM
Excuse me, i don't know what is the standard setup.
Everyone has his different setup facing different surface.
I think this "at least 30C" not really so little, maybe more than 35C, in the case was really so hot as burn, somebody which using HPI 33r has also complaining the tyres are overheating.
I could use 32R was in June, when rained 2 months consequently, then the floor are no dust without threatening soft compound tyres.
The problem happened in 20 of July, just stopped raining a week, the surface is undoubtly dirty, that is a basketball pitch of a school which is near car road, as we could see now is summer holiday season without anymore gym lessons, is easily to understand how dirty is on the floor. And there's a sandy pitch for athletism just on other side, maybe the wind will push the sand to there, then with high temperature which the soft compound tyres has on trouble.
Everyone has his different setup facing different surface.
I think this "at least 30C" not really so little, maybe more than 35C, in the case was really so hot as burn, somebody which using HPI 33r has also complaining the tyres are overheating.
I could use 32R was in June, when rained 2 months consequently, then the floor are no dust without threatening soft compound tyres.
The problem happened in 20 of July, just stopped raining a week, the surface is undoubtly dirty, that is a basketball pitch of a school which is near car road, as we could see now is summer holiday season without anymore gym lessons, is easily to understand how dirty is on the floor. And there's a sandy pitch for athletism just on other side, maybe the wind will push the sand to there, then with high temperature which the soft compound tyres has on trouble.
You need the softer compounds to deal with the dust, but harder to cope with the temperature.... correct?
So basically, you have two options. 1) Try and make the softer compounds last without overheating, OR 2) Use a harder compound and struggle for grip.
One question, do you have to run a control tyre, or can you play with the inserts? As that may be a good way to stop the 32's overheating. You could try some thinner inserts, giving more of an air gap. This will allow the tyres to heat up quickly, but they won't get to as high a temperature (the air gap helps keep them cooler).
Apart from that, you may just have to deal with the track as best as possible. Don't be afraid to alter your setup lots to get it too work. Most of the setups you can find will be for relatively well prepared surfaces, so hence not a massive variation in them. If your struggling for steering, don't be afraid to try more droop, softer front springs etc
HiH
Ed
07-28-2008, 06:14 AM
Sounds too me like you are stuck between a rock and a hard place.
You need the softer compounds to deal with the dust, but harder to cope with the temperature.... correct?
So basically, you have two options. 1) Try and make the softer compounds last without overheating, OR 2) Use a harder compound and struggle for grip.
One question, do you have to run a control tyre, or can you play with the inserts? As that may be a good way to stop the 32's overheating. You could try some thinner inserts, giving more of an air gap. This will allow the tyres to heat up quickly, but they won't get to as high a temperature (the air gap helps keep them cooler).
Apart from that, you may just have to deal with the track as best as possible. Don't be afraid to alter your setup lots to get it too work. Most of the setups you can find will be for relatively well prepared surfaces, so hence not a massive variation in them. If your struggling for steering, don't be afraid to try more droop, softer front springs etc
HiH
Ed
You need the softer compounds to deal with the dust, but harder to cope with the temperature.... correct?
So basically, you have two options. 1) Try and make the softer compounds last without overheating, OR 2) Use a harder compound and struggle for grip.
One question, do you have to run a control tyre, or can you play with the inserts? As that may be a good way to stop the 32's overheating. You could try some thinner inserts, giving more of an air gap. This will allow the tyres to heat up quickly, but they won't get to as high a temperature (the air gap helps keep them cooler).
Apart from that, you may just have to deal with the track as best as possible. Don't be afraid to alter your setup lots to get it too work. Most of the setups you can find will be for relatively well prepared surfaces, so hence not a massive variation in them. If your struggling for steering, don't be afraid to try more droop, softer front springs etc
HiH
Ed
In the June i try 32R and 36R with yokomo 037M, it "jitts".
In the July i try RP30 and 36 with type R insert which is totally unwork, then try Sorex 32R with A medium, without any big problem inthe 1st moments, sine 2 min. later the car are going "jitt", next race session, the car lost totally grip, then all the day the car push to the outside of the track, even with low rhythm.
So, i want to try with Yellow springs in the front, rather of blue.
Anyway, even somebody here ask me to using red anti-rollbar, anyway i never saw before anybody around me running with it, had only said to running with double diffs, so i will prepare 1 to stand-by.
About the tyres, 32R still be choice, maybe 36R if the temperature is high, in my choice A-Medium with 36R or B-Medium with 32R then maybe vice-versa, of course i have to try.
Somebody which concern me to using 32R is using Speedmind thick medium insert, then he said is no complain with the car behaviour, is here which i feel confuse totally!
Last edited by mac853; 07-29-2008 at 08:40 AM.
07-28-2008, 06:34 AM
08-05-2008, 08:47 PM
can somebody tell me the part number of the sway bar set for the 415msx please
08-06-2008, 12:37 AM
Hi Guys.
does anybody know the difference between the 1D blocks or any other blocks of the TB03 against the Trf 415 and that of trf 416?
though they are all 1D...but is there a differnce?
does anybody know the difference between the 1D blocks or any other blocks of the TB03 against the Trf 415 and that of trf 416?
though they are all 1D...but is there a differnce?
08-06-2008, 02:06 AM
guy nice meeting you all... i just bought a MRE 415 from my fren.
But im mainly use for Drifting...so i would like to know how the setting of the spur and pinion ...im using 23/19T motor...
105T / 40T x 23T = 60.375
izit calculate by this??? if yes the lesser (60.375) means higher pick up?
But im mainly use for Drifting...so i would like to know how the setting of the spur and pinion ...im using 23/19T motor...
105T / 40T x 23T = 60.375
izit calculate by this??? if yes the lesser (60.375) means higher pick up?
08-06-2008, 02:10 AM
Cam, no its spur gear (105t) / divided by pinion gear (the smaller gear attached to the motor) X multiplied by the internal gearbox ratio (the MRE is 2.250)
hope that helps
hope that helps
08-06-2008, 05:57 PM
so can i know stock interber ratio is how much???can see from the outside?
MRE is 2.250 then the lesser the more power ???
sorry guys...im noob....previous using tt01 only...
08-06-2008, 06:05 PM
Hi there!
Just a quick question.
How to resolve this problem? I am having problem whenever increasing my steering EPA to more than 60% on my 415 MSXX MRE. The steering system seems like touching the front belt.
Greetings Jonathan
Just a quick question.
How to resolve this problem? I am having problem whenever increasing my steering EPA to more than 60% on my 415 MSXX MRE. The steering system seems like touching the front belt.
Greetings Jonathan
08-06-2008, 06:58 PM
That pic you posted isnt the MSXX but the MS and the MSXX MRE is assembled differently. Mine doesnt rub at all.
08-06-2008, 08:04 PM
08-06-2008, 08:14 PM
First off if it is assembled per MSXX MRE then yours isnt assembled right. The steering bridge goes under the steering arms not above as you have it. Also make sure you used the right size end ball on the steering linkage. There is a addmen that comes with the MRE kits and shows the "new" assembly. Looks like you assembled it via the normal MSXX instructions and the steering posts spacing is different which would casue your rubbing. Also when you put it to MRE make sure your servo is spaced right so the linkage doesnt rub the top deck.
08-06-2008, 08:19 PM
Greetings Jonathan
08-07-2008, 12:30 AM
