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Old 10-29-2007, 12:15 AM
  #19396  
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Originally Posted by Jam-ehz
Try this:
XRA305442 - Xray T1 High performance Rear Belt

According to this site, http://www.thard.co.uk/tips/18tpulleys.html , they use it for the 18T/36T pulleys, so using a 37T won't be much of a stretch for this belt...

I'm currently shopping around to do this conversion..
The xray belt is also too tight with 37/18 pullies, didnt fit mine when I tried it. Had some hope for the cyclone belt as you can run the belts really loose with 18T centers.
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Old 10-31-2007, 11:09 AM
  #19397  
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Default MSX direct center pulley...

hi,

does anyone here put the Tamiya center direct pulley? does this mean the rear and front belt will be side-by-side on the same pulley? cause im wondering whether it can be use on my MSX...i dont like the one-way...

Was thinking to change it to that...and also install front alum diff. Goodbye one-way.

give me a pic so that i can see the actual pulley being use.

Thanks.
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Old 10-31-2007, 12:59 PM
  #19398  
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i put the MRE center shaft in mine and it works great, and the belts are on separate pulleys so they dont rub.

cheers
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Old 11-01-2007, 02:10 AM
  #19399  
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Originally Posted by surrealmaterial
i put the MRE center shaft in mine and it works great, and the belts are on separate pulleys so they dont rub.

cheers
mine is the trf415msx....the pulley is different than urs...

so my option is to use the direct center pullley...with the front alum diff set....

ordering in now...just want to see how it look if install only...

any1 got that pic?
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Old 11-01-2007, 02:33 AM
  #19400  
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i also have the trf415msx, you just have to turn the black bearings holders the other way around and grind a bit off them and it fits perfectly......
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Old 11-01-2007, 04:23 AM
  #19401  
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Originally Posted by fish_fryzzz
mine is the trf415msx....the pulley is different than urs...

so my option is to use the direct center pullley...with the front alum diff set....

ordering in now...just want to see how it look if install only...

any1 got that pic?
http://www.thard.co.uk/images/415k.jpg and http://www.thard.co.uk/images/415e.jpg
thats a couple of (poor) pic of the old style centre pulley.

Surreal is right, in that you can mount the MRE style direct centre pulley in a MSX. All you need to do is as he says, flip the bearing holders round, and file some material off.

The parts you require for that are...

1x TAM3454395 - MRE One Piece Centre Pulley/Spur Mount
1x TAM50589 - 5mm E-Ring (to secure the pulleys)
1x TAM51213 - TA05 Centre Pulley (2pcs)

Have a look here) for instructions on how it all goes together, just follow the picture, and use the black plastic bearing holders instead of the BG10 parts in the picture (just keep them turned round the same way).

HiH
Ed

P.s. being the proud 415 owner I am, I've posted some more pics of my MRE on my site.... http://www.thard.co.uk/pictures.html
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Old 11-01-2007, 08:15 AM
  #19402  
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Originally Posted by badboy
Can you use this 415 MSXX conversion kit (stick pack chassis) to a 415 MRE? Thanks!!!
Yes !
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Old 11-02-2007, 11:22 AM
  #19403  
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Hi Dudes
I need pair of front steel trf 415 drive shafts...What parts do I need and what is the best place to buy them???
thanx in advanced
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Old 11-02-2007, 10:10 PM
  #19404  
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Originally Posted by Mr_Orange
The xray belt is also too tight with 37/18 pullies, didnt fit mine when I tried it. Had some hope for the cyclone belt as you can run the belts really loose with 18T centers.
Yeah, I just stuck with 36T wide pitch, the 37T only raises the ratio again, kinda goes against the purpose of going 18T anyway..

I like the covering of the diff ends that the wide pitch diffs provide..

----
Semi-related quick Q.. I'm rebuilding my diffs, and there seems to be fine line between it tightening too much (minimal diff action, but the aluminum diff ends get rather warm when I break it in with my drill press..) and not enough to keep from slipping, barely 1/8 of a turn difference between the two.. does that mean the spring is gone or needs re-stretching?

Should I allow any slip, or should it just be barely moveable by hand? Should the front and rear have the same slip/non-slip? I'm running Stock/19T foam carpet right now.. any suggestions for 19T rubber carpet, or use the same diffs?
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Old 11-03-2007, 12:26 AM
  #19405  
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Quick question about the 2 and 4 degree C-blocks for the front suspension on the MSXX.

I've checked the manual about ten times, and the 2 and 4 degrees refer to camber, NOT caster. Is this right? Whether 2 or 4 degrees, the block longitude line is perpendicular to the through-pin. Yes? Neutral caster, in other words.

I've been eyeballing them on my table, and this seems to be the case.

Secondly, if it is in fact camber that is the variable, what's the point? Is it for clearance of certain rims...foams? Or is it some fine tuning voodoo of upper link length?

Thanks.
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Old 11-03-2007, 02:11 AM
  #19406  
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Originally Posted by Jam-ehz
Yeah, I just stuck with 36T wide pitch, the 37T only raises the ratio again, kinda goes against the purpose of going 18T anyway..

I like the covering of the diff ends that the wide pitch diffs provide..

----
Semi-related quick Q.. I'm rebuilding my diffs, and there seems to be fine line between it tightening too much (minimal diff action, but the aluminum diff ends get rather warm when I break it in with my drill press..) and not enough to keep from slipping, barely 1/8 of a turn difference between the two.. does that mean the spring is gone or needs re-stretching?

Should I allow any slip, or should it just be barely moveable by hand? Should the front and rear have the same slip/non-slip? I'm running Stock/19T foam carpet right now.. any suggestions for 19T rubber carpet, or use the same diffs?
I would say your diff plates are worn.
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Old 11-03-2007, 02:12 AM
  #19407  
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Originally Posted by PutAwayWet
Quick question about the 2 and 4 degree C-blocks for the front suspension on the MSXX.

I've checked the manual about ten times, and the 2 and 4 degrees refer to camber, NOT caster. Is this right? Whether 2 or 4 degrees, the block longitude line is perpendicular to the through-pin. Yes? Neutral caster, in other words.

I've been eyeballing them on my table, and this seems to be the case.

Secondly, if it is in fact camber that is the variable, what's the point? Is it for clearance of certain rims...foams? Or is it some fine tuning voodoo of upper link length?

Thanks.
No it refers to caster. Camber is only given by the length of your turnbuckles.
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Old 11-05-2007, 06:32 PM
  #19408  
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Default ta05 drive

hi

i have a 415 msx that is mostly stock, and was wondering what the advantage was to running the ta05 gear set? what parts do you need to convert it?

i run mostly on carpet with foam, so if anyone has set up ideas and parts i might need, let me know.

jeff
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Old 11-05-2007, 07:38 PM
  #19409  
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Originally Posted by hyena boy
hi

i have a 415 msx that is mostly stock, and was wondering what the advantage was to running the ta05 gear set? what parts do you need to convert it?

i run mostly on carpet with foam, so if anyone has set up ideas and parts i might need, let me know.

jeff

It's a nice conversion which I did when I had mine but as far as advantage? Nothing major, changes the FDR and gives you the option of wide pitch pulleys and gets rid of that silly external shaft stopper. I'd change to the MSXX / MRE steering before doing the drivetrain.
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Old 11-07-2007, 04:33 AM
  #19410  
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hi, what will you guys reccomend for the number of tooth of pinion i will use for a 23T motor using a 102T spur gear for my MSXX will be running rubber tires on a flowing but technical type of asphalt track thanks
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