Tamiya TRF415
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Tek Nickal
Does adding spacers under the front suspension block affect anything else? Such as anti-dive?
the roll center change seems minimal but what effect does increasing the anti-dive have on the car? With the added caster.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by sohlman
One brushed, other brushless. Brushless needs some wires shortened...big time.
Hey are you heading up to CT for the ROAR race at Speedzone ??
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Tek Nickal
the roll center change seems minimal but what effect does increasing the anti-dive have on the car? With the added caster.
I get much better and consistent lap times without anti dive.
Originally Posted by GuyIsDamGood
Item # 53602(Tamiya Turnbuckle Wrench) is a 3mm Wrench.
-Info from Tower Hobbies site
Item # 49197(Tamiya Blue Turnbuckle Wrench) is the 4mm Wrench.
-Info from Tamiya America site.
If I`m wrong; tell me(prove it).
Take Care
-Info from Tower Hobbies site
Item # 49197(Tamiya Blue Turnbuckle Wrench) is the 4mm Wrench.
-Info from Tamiya America site.
If I`m wrong; tell me(prove it).
Take Care
Tech Master
Originally Posted by JRRobiso
From what I've seen or read on this thread, some would just add alum spacers/shimms under the front susp block (.5 to 1.5mm) to increase the degree of caster or you can check these two stores: Precision RC / RC Model
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
I am running a standard MSX, and put the Evo V short arms on the car.
I noticed that if I followed the 1B-1A on the front, which people have mentioned in this thread, but notice that the drive is really bound up if I do that. When I run 1C-1A on the front, the drive is back to being smooth.
Anyone else notice any binding issues on the MSX with the short arms on the front end with the 1B-1A setup?
I noticed that if I followed the 1B-1A on the front, which people have mentioned in this thread, but notice that the drive is really bound up if I do that. When I run 1C-1A on the front, the drive is back to being smooth.
Anyone else notice any binding issues on the MSX with the short arms on the front end with the 1B-1A setup?
what lenngth dog bones are you using im sure ive read you should use the 42mm ones with the short arms
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by pug 205 gti
what lenngth dog bones are you using im sure ive read you should use the 42mm ones with the short arms
Tech Master
iTrader: (92)
Originally Posted by SpeedDesignz
Lookin good Steve !!
Hey are you heading up to CT for the ROAR race at Speedzone ??
Hey are you heading up to CT for the ROAR race at Speedzone ??
Tech Champion
iTrader: (100)
Originally Posted by sohlman
Building the MSXX got me exciting to race outdoor. If only it gets warmer.
We can set-up a Tamiya Area. Can't wait to run outdoors!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by trf_racer
It will change the roll center (raise it) and increase anti-dive.
A bit of front kick-up is a good thing on bumpy tracks, as it allows it to absorb the bumps better. From memory, 0.8mm under either block changes the castor angle by 1°,
I have actually used shims under the rear block before, and that seemed to work well when I was using a spool, and racing on a tight track. A little less castor increases initial steering, and the arm angle allows the car to lean on the front more.
HiH
Ed
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by Burlap
I am running a standard MSX, and put the Evo V short arms on the car.
I noticed that if I followed the 1B-1A on the front, which people have mentioned in this thread, but notice that the drive is really bound up if I do that. When I run 1C-1A on the front, the drive is back to being smooth.
Anyone else notice any binding issues on the MSX with the short arms on the front end with the 1B-1A setup?
I noticed that if I followed the 1B-1A on the front, which people have mentioned in this thread, but notice that the drive is really bound up if I do that. When I run 1C-1A on the front, the drive is back to being smooth.
Anyone else notice any binding issues on the MSX with the short arms on the front end with the 1B-1A setup?
I have run the MRE with 1B-1A up front with the short arms (actually never ran the original arms) for quite some time...no binding...use 42 drive shafts (but have kept the 46 ones in the rear)
EDIT: Using the 415 MSX one-way (not the MRE one-way)
Last edited by Stein Tumert; 02-20-2007 at 02:49 PM.
Tech Fanatic
Hey Tamiyarcracer; the Tower Hobbies site is known for putting-up wrong info. I`ll contact Tamiya and find out what`s up with that Turnbuckle Wrench.
-53602 - Tamiya Turnbuckle Wrench is the Silver Aluminum Wrench.....?
-49197 - Tamiya Turnbuckle Wrench is the Blue Aluminum Wrench.
They could be both 4mm Wrenches; but in different colors.
I`ll get back with direct info on it.
Take Care
-53602 - Tamiya Turnbuckle Wrench is the Silver Aluminum Wrench.....?
-49197 - Tamiya Turnbuckle Wrench is the Blue Aluminum Wrench.
They could be both 4mm Wrenches; but in different colors.
I`ll get back with direct info on it.
Take Care
Originally Posted by Burlap
Running 46mm, and what I have seen, no one has mentioned that fact. The car seems fine with the C-A front toe blocks setup. Considering the angle of the hinge pins on the front in the kit are 2 deg toe out, and with C-A it runs 1 deg, interesting to see what happens.