Charles Godwin

iTrader: (2)

I'd suggest that you get the standard axles from tamiya if you want to change from the lighweight axles. The tamiya ones are probably cheaper so you can spend more on needed spares but either way they do the job

Charles

Charles Godwin

iTrader: (2)

Your car is a bit of a 'blue-machine' ay Sean

Charles

The Tank

Hello,
I just picked up an MRE car and its a little dif. from an xray as far as set up goes...

could someone be so kind as to tell me how all of the dif. susp. mounts work
i.e. toe, track width, roll centers...

I'm clueless to which is what?

Thanks in advance!

pug 205 gti

oh thats good to hear on the diff front and it would be nice to see some pics of the chassis etc

Sean T Guy

Try this for "BLUE"

Devon Racer

Those look nice, hope the drive shaft pin doesnt come out

Sean T Guy

Yeh , very good. I did see you running from my pit table with the 1.5 allen driver....

pug 205 gti

blue-min marvelous!!! looks great! sean

charles tamiya axles are not as strong as the square ones.so im led to believe.this will be of great benefeit to me as i find out how to keep it pointing it the right direction.

as for the jaad diffs being blue thats certainly not the case why ive ordered one.it just looks like a nice bit of kit and go on the blue dos look good!

are the rear diff halfs in the mre alloy? if so i might enquire about getting them anodized as there is a place in town that does one small baskets worth for a tenner think the guy does them on the side
ive seen a friends paint ball gun that has been done there. very nice

Devon Racer

Hope your shocks dont come adrift next sunday !!!

Sean T Guy

What a shame some "FERRET" is posting on a 415 forum with a yoko"homo" avatar..

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Different suspension mounts... very easy really

They go (from narrowest to widest)

1XD, 1XC, 1XB, 1XA, 1X, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1D, 1E

The 1 signifys that these are 1mm lower than the other (evo4) blocks that are avaliable. In effect that means they have a lower roll centre. These are standard on the MRE and Evo5. Most people just quote these without the 1 however.

The width of the blocks affects two things;
1) The suspension arm angle (the toe setting)
2) Track width

Between each block is 0.5deg difference in toe setting. For example, using the rear MRE standard setup of XB on the front, and D on the rear, gives a [i]toe-in[i] setting of 3degrees (Six steps between those blocks... 6 x 0.5 = 3 ).
A narrower block at the front gives toe-in (used at the rear of the car, with 1XB/1D), a wider one toe-out (used at the front of the MRE, with B/A)

(As a point of thumb, most people will post there block settings as Front block/Rear block + whichever end of the car... ie Front B/A)

The clever bit is, you can retain the same toe setting, but completely change the cars track width.
For example;
A setup of XD/A on the rear gives 3deg of toe-in, with a very narrow car, where as XB/D gives a wide car, but still 3deg of toe-in

I have a chart on my site (link in sig) regarding these... check the excel pages on there.

HiH
Ed

tbeardmore

iTrader: (3)

Hey Sean - where can I go to get the c-hubs & Steering blocks???

Thanks,
Todd

Sean T Guy

here's the hubs 250020509811 on ebay

Tek Nickal

Nice, but those look expensive to break.

LBSR415

I got all my aluminum stuff here http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...?catmainid=337