Wing Chun

iTrader: (12)

Hey Guy's
What weight oil would you recommened for a outdoor, smooth, fast track for my MSX please. Also Tryhard the droop setup you gave me Front 5 rear 4 worked great, I feel me shocks just don't feel right so I would love to get some imput on oils for my track.
Also if the other track I race at is bumpy and tight, what droop and weight shock oil should I use. Because I want to have one car set up for Meakin Park which is a tight technical bumpy track and so is Bayside where I will be racing this year,The other is Gold Coast and Brendale which are smooth and fast tracks. My main car is set up good for the fast 2 tracks but I would love to also get the other MSX set up properly for the tight, bumpy, tech tracks so what is a good starting point there with Droop, and Shock oil for them please.
Thanks Guys
Addam

TRF415boy

Here's my MSX setup, I used it all the year for nearly every track, being smooth or bumpy, it always worked for me. I finished 7th in the BRCA nationals in 19T with it.

bender

iTrader: (4)

Addam,

The setup posted by TRF415boy above is VERY close to what I often ran with the MSX at Bayside - so I'd give that a go.

Just a few notes about the differences between Meakin vs Bayside.

Most of the time at Meakin I ran the car with roll bars and fairly stiff springs ie: White front, Blue rear. At Bayside, I usually took the sway bars off and sometimes ran one-grade softer on the springs at the front ie: Blue's all round.

For droop I'd use about 3-3.5mm all round, measured above ride-height. Using droop gauges is pointless as droop changes when you adjust ride-height - but this doesn't show up when using a droop gauge.

Tek Nickal

Was there an aftermarket company which made a countersunk top deck for the MSX?

Wing Chun

iTrader: (12)

Thank's Bender
Addam

Eirik

I have tried raising the susp. blocks, but I did not like it though....

On a high grip permanent track, my car is awesome, perfect balance, run after run with the same tires.....

I am pretty close, but I want to try the old steering as I think the MRE steering is too twitchy around neutral and has more high speed steering than we need for carpet.
The old steering should be smoother and have more low speed steering!

Wing Chun

iTrader: (12)

Hi TRFboy
I can't print out the setup sheet can you please email it to me.
Thanks Mate
Addam
[email protected]

pug 205 gti

im an email away from my new car yet im still not convinced the mre is the right car for me after reading the steering on carpet problems as thats where it will be used
i just dont want to jump in at the deep end to find out that the car doesnt suit my needs

TRF415boy

I don't know what hole you're using on the front hub but you should use the rear one, it decreases the ackermann and makes the car easier. If it's still too much add some spacers under the steering ball studs to further decrease the ackermann. The reason I use the HPI front hubs is that it gives a tad more ackermann than the tamiya hubs (that, and the fact that I cba changing bearings all the time, lol). More initial steering and a bit less mid corner steering.

I tried raising the blocks before too but with the car being too soft I didn't like it. Then I put the Tech Racing top deck, which stiffened the car up, and then the car's handling improved instantaneously. I used the car with the blocks flat on the chassis but was having grip roll issues, which i resolved by raising the blocks.

I got Ed to raise his blocks by 1mm all round on his Evo 5 last sunday for the last final and he'd dropped nearly half a second off his laptimes, said the car was a lot better.

TRF415boy

The steering really isn't a problem. In fact the new steering could be made to feel like the old one, simply because it's adjustable, while the old one isn't.

pug 205 gti

trf415boy
the thought of buying the mre is that its the best tamiya car.
ive read that the short arms from the evo5 fit the car.is that at the rear to assist quicker steering or is it a 4 corner mod? for nimbleness?
and am i right in thinking the drive shafts need changing too? what are the part numbers for that set up? or is that a foam tyre set up?
if you could would you list some parts(numbers) you think are essential to keep me running i.e weak or "most broken bits" lol
thanks for your patience

Wing Chun

iTrader: (12)

Thank's Fabien,
Best wishes
Addam

TRF415boy

It's an all round change of arms. The short LW arms are more similar to the arms the original 415 came with and make for a sharper car. I've not tried them on asphalt but on carpet they're great. You'll need the shorter 42mm front drive shafts, but on the rear the ones that come standard fit fine, you can use either lengths.


53928 short LW suspension arms
51107 TB Evo 4 C-hub, 4 degrees
53826 FL coated Ball-Head king pins and flanged tubes
53851 46mm Titanium coated suspension shafts (2pcs)

These are the main parts that break. One thing that everyone using a tamiya must remember is that they're tough, but something have to give, and it usually is the hinge pins that give up first If you hit something and don't break anything, you should check your hinge pins otherwise the car will handle absolutely rubbish with even the slightliest bent ones.

TRF415boy

Good luck mate.

hyena boy

there is too much to read to try to find the info i am looking for so i am hoping someone can hook me up.

i have just picked up a 415msx and am looking for a set up for foam carpet tight layout. i have a few hop ups but not much.

thank you for the help.

jeff