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Old 01-15-2007, 06:59 PM   #17056
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Want to know if the 415MSX and MRE use the same center shaft 51057?
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Old 01-15-2007, 07:05 PM   #17057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ioxqq
Want to know if the 415MSX and MRE use the same center shaft 51057?
Yep,,,just flip the bearing holder to the outside
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Old 01-16-2007, 05:59 AM   #17058
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Default Tamiya oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by straightaway
Does anyone know what Tamiya shock oil is 30w? 35W? Thanks.
300 is 30 wt and 350 is 35 wt etc.
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Old 01-16-2007, 12:51 PM   #17059
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The MRE came with a supplemental instruction sheet and a small update to that supplement that related to the steering installation. Does anyone have an electronic version of that small update sheet?
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Old 01-16-2007, 07:21 PM   #17060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proceed5
Hi guys,
I need to ask this silly question and was hoping for someone here to post a good reply please.

The following is my current setup and after numerous runs since maiden, I have found that I need to have seriously more off-power steering (for that deeper attack into an apex) and more on-power steering (for more aggressive throttle out from corners).
Whenever I used Stock motors, there's no problem, everything is fantastic.
But when I switch to the BL Novak3.5r, I face firstly understeer, hugs corner, then power understeer. I want my MRE to hug the apex and be able to power out without understeering out. On some sweepers, cannot even hold half throttle.

I have the following setup at present time and needs improvements, greatly appreciate assistance:
Mazda6 body; Novak 3.5r; Steering rod attached to forward hole on steering knuckles; 3mm shims added to steering linkage to bring forward the ball nuts where the steering rod cups fits ; Caster 4`;

Front shocks: 2-hole pistons, 50wt oil, Blue springs, ride height 5mm;
Mid rollbars (standard MRE); Sus blocks 1B-1A Bridge (standard MRE); Droop 5 (measured using the standard droop gauge from bottom of chassis);

Rear shocks: 2-hole pistons, 40wt oil, Blue springs, ride height 5.5mm;
Soft rollbars (standard MRE); Sus blocks 1XB-1C (with positive Anti-squat 0.5mm added); Droop 6;

I have tried adding Kick-up 0.5mm onto the fronts, but this resulted in even more initial understeer, but on-power steering noticeably improved. But I can't live with the massive understeer off-power.

Aim: I want to carry more speed at corners.

Should I do the following:
a) softer shock oils front to say 40wt?
b) add Negative Kick-up instead of positive (but will I loose that on-power steering effect ?)

Thanks in advance guys,
Cheers
Are you running any toe-out? An increase in front toe-out, say one degree, will give you the initial steering you need. Don't use any kick-up. This will allow more weight from the rear to transfer to the front - increasing front traction / steering. Removing shims under the rear inner camber mount will allow the car to rotate more and help maintain the "on-power steering effect" you were referring to. You can try laying down the front shocks or soften the entire shock by using the inner hole on the suspension arm. You can also try reducing the front oil to 45wt. or 40wt., as you suggested. Give these suggesting a try. Just make small changes and one at a time, so you can see if they worked or not.
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Old 01-16-2007, 09:35 PM   #17061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOTMAN
The MRE came with a supplemental instruction sheet and a small update to that supplement that related to the steering installation. Does anyone have an electronic version of that small update sheet?
look back about 10 posts the link to the instruction manual is there.
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Old 01-16-2007, 10:48 PM   #17062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
Are you running any toe-out? An increase in front toe-out, say one degree, will give you the initial steering you need. Don't use any kick-up. This will allow more weight from the rear to transfer to the front - increasing front traction / steering. Removing shims under the rear inner camber mount will allow the car to rotate more and help maintain the "on-power steering effect" you were referring to. You can try laying down the front shocks or soften the entire shock by using the inner hole on the suspension arm. You can also try reducing the front oil to 45wt. or 40wt., as you suggested. Give these suggesting a try. Just make small changes and one at a time, so you can see if they worked or not.
Hi Kewdawg, Thanks for the above.
Yes, tried very early today. Front toe-out set to 1.0 degree up from 0.5 and with this adjustment it felt better already. Changed Front shocks springs down one notch softer, this felt better. On the rear inner camber-links yes removed shims now set at 1.5mm rear inner and 2.0mm on top of rear hubs, yes, nicer feel. Also have shifted a bit more static weight towards front of car by shims adjustments to front and rear arms spacings. Yupe car feels better already, still need finer tuning.. Looks like previously i put too much emphasis on front and forgot about the rear-side of car which is just as important as well. Thanks to you for highlighting the camber links adjustments on rear. Thanks & cheers, please keep in touch.
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Old 01-17-2007, 01:49 AM   #17063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YAH
300 is 30 wt and 350 is 35 wt etc.
so what weight is the one that came w/ MRE? Thanks
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Old 01-17-2007, 01:50 AM   #17064
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Usually Tamiya Kits comes with the yellow oil which is 300 or 30 wt
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Old 01-17-2007, 05:15 AM   #17065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proceed5
Hi Kewdawg, Thanks for the above.
Yes, tried very early today. Front toe-out set to 1.0 degree up from 0.5 and with this adjustment it felt better already. Changed Front shocks springs down one notch softer, this felt better. On the rear inner camber-links yes removed shims now set at 1.5mm rear inner and 2.0mm on top of rear hubs, yes, nicer feel. Also have shifted a bit more static weight towards front of car by shims adjustments to front and rear arms spacings. Yupe car feels better already, still need finer tuning.. Looks like previously i put too much emphasis on front and forgot about the rear-side of car which is just as important as well. Thanks to you for highlighting the camber links adjustments on rear. Thanks & cheers, please keep in touch.
Anytime, buddy. Happy I could help.
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Old 01-17-2007, 01:45 PM   #17066
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Hi there
Can some one please tell me what part number for the metal outdrives for the MRE/MSX tamiya Spool. I keep breaking mine and was wondering if there is a outdrive in metal or titanium, or what other brands fit onto the tamiya spool.Also with all the guy's using metal out drives have you had no problems with them.
Thanks in advance
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Old 01-17-2007, 01:53 PM   #17067
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Addam

Just get the spool for the TA05 chassis (part#53877), it comes with steel outdrives that is a straight fit, will last forewer!
You will get some more chatter though, but no big deal....
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Old 01-17-2007, 02:18 PM   #17068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRFMAD
Thank's Tony,
I put in my MSX about a month ago a Standard Tamiya oneway with the TA05 pulley and it was tight as buggery, I kept pulling it apart and putting it back together thinking I have done something wrong. So it is great to know I am not such a twit of a mechanic
Also last night I was just about to go to bed and I remembered reading something about diff's on Tryhard's website, I went there and found how to modify the pulley. So between you 2 Racing guru's Again help is there when needed. If you would ever like a free golf lesson and you are in OZ look me up
Thanks Tony
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No problem, I was actually able to fit the pulley on the oneway without modifying it by loosening the bulkheads and forcing it in, after a few runs it loosens up.
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Old 01-17-2007, 02:36 PM   #17069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRFMAD
Hi there
Can some one please tell me what part number for the metal outdrives for the MRE/MSX tamiya Spool. I keep breaking mine and was wondering if there is a outdrive in metal or titanium, or what other brands fit onto the tamiya spool.Also with all the guy's using metal out drives have you had no problems with them.
Thanks in advance
Addam
TIR also makes a nice spool for the MSX
http://www.titaniumracing.com/
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Old 01-17-2007, 04:53 PM   #17070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ioxqq
Tryhard and everyone, I just came back form track. I use stiffer spring on front and my car is not break lose in corner anymore. And I feel the over all steering is less. especially the getting out of concer. So i have make less drop on front and it helped. Also, I found why my car is lose when getting out of large sweeper. It is because my car is not balance. I use brushless and lip. If I try to use IB4200 then this problem sloved. Thank you for your time on writing so long for me!

I feel my car is very good. Easy to drive and make a faster turn now.
Glad we could help...
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