LBSR415

No fighting,,,,I'm Trying to stay roar leagal because of my home and other local tracks besides the speed 6 is the best body known to man kind

ioxqq

Tryhard: First, I don’t want to give you the feeling that I don’t believing in you. I just want to discuss so that I can learn more that something beyond my knowledge. No offense at all.

Isn’t the stiffer spring on front passing more weight more direct to the front tires because the stiffer front spring doesn’t absorb the weight as much as the soft spring. That’s why if my car is losing getting out of corner when apply throttle, I can use stiffer rear spring to solve this problem. More weight transfer to rear and rear tire get more grip.
I think the reason when using stiffer front spring will have less steering is because the car can’t roll too much and the tire lost it contact pitch on the ground.

Back to my problem, if I use stiffer spring on the front then I will have faster initial turn-in then isn’t my car will be more lose when getting in to concer?

Thanks a lot for your time!

Ben.C

Stiff springs will give the car more intitial turn in and will have slight push in the mid and out corner. I would use stiff springs for tight tracks and soften them for long flowing tracks.

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

LBSR--If you are looking for any setup help at 'Birds look up Dan Garber. I will be back running 12 but would be glad to help on setup for your sedan. Not sure if Numan or any other TRF is going back to the race.

Ioxqq-- It sounds like you are confusing weight transfer and traction/grip.
The stiffer the spring the quicker initial weight transfer/ direction change is.

Think of dropping the equal weight as you yourself weighs. The same weight will barely move you. Changing direction very slowly(soft springs) is the same

If you were to drop twice your weight you would move very fast(stiff springs)

The softer the spring the more mechanical grip you generate also the slower a car responds. BUT too soft and the car can appear to react quicker to input changes.

A soft spring allows the weight of the car to be supported but it will not resist the lateral acceleration or weight transfer thus forcing the weight of the car into the contact patch of the tire. This is fine if the tire can generate enough grip but if it cannot then the car will be loose.


What you may be seeing on running the stiffer rear spring is that the tire/insert you are running is really too soft. I know sounds weird but if it can absorb all of the energy then you are forcing the tire into the track to generate the grip. It will in the end cause more wear and heat in the tire. With a softer spring and proper roll rates you might find that the car will generate the mechanical grip but not excessive grip and actually be faster through the turn.

As an aside I will take mechanical grip any day over tire induced mechanical grip. The reason will show in the cars ability to turn a fast lap and feel comfortable doing it. If you feel strapped trying to get the "killer" lap then look at softening the car. The reason again is that the tire is doing all the work and not the suspension. The strapped feeling is coming from the letting go as it exceeds its slip angle and it then cannot generate any more grip and lets go suddenly. As opposed to letting go progressively and sliding into over/understeer.

Sorry so long but hopefully it makes sense.

D

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Hi guys.

Need a referral. Looking for an aftermarket chassis, 2mm quasi-iso. Any suggestions? I have already emailed BMI.

TRF415boy

No you're getting confused there. The softer the springs the more weight transfer, period. I think we would help better if you'd tell us your setup to be honest, as people tell you to go for softer/harder springs without knowing what springs you have, it could be that you're already too soft or too hard...

Eirik

I know Uwe Rheinard had some 2mm chassis made up for last years Euros, maybe he has some left.... just pm him and ask! (User = "Papa Rheinard")

initialrays

Here is miky blue shock spring and miky blue roll bar for serect set-up

Spring:
http://www.racing11.net/shop/product...oducts_id=2811

Roll Bar
http://www.racing11.net/shop/product...oducts_id=2812

racer43

trying to by some 102t spur gears for my trf415 msx mre. whre do you guys find this gears? i usually get everything else from rc-mushroom but they do not seen to havre them.is there is an aftermarket one?

Charles Godwin

iTrader: (2)

Get either Xenon or PRS 64dp spurs. I run Xenon ones and they haven't let me down . You can get the PRS ones i think direct from PRS. The Xenon ones you can get from Speedtechrc or most of the Japanese shops like rcchamp.

Charles

simini80

Hi Guys, I am looking for a new chassis to use over the 2007 season. Majority of racing will be done on tarmac, but I will be keeping my thumbs active at club on carpet.

I am looking at the 415msx MRE, Cyclone Andy Moore or Mi3.

I have run the TB-02R (Tamiya Euro Cup) and TB Evo4 in the past. The problems I experienced with both the TB02 and Evo with the reversible suspension was the small bearings in the wheel hubs used to fail frequently. At least 2 bearings per round - which was expensive with ceramic bearings. This put me off the 415msx - thus I opted for a Mi2ec.

Have Tamiya solved the bearing issue? Be honest...... I have read on other forums that people have changed to HPI hubs etc to introduce larger bearings.

Also of the 3 chassis I am looking at the 415msx MRE is the oldest by far. Will Tamiya be making any big changes over the next 12 months (any gossip??)

I see the msxx but not sure that this is an improvement or just to fix a gap in other markets (4 cell racing).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

trf_racer

Did you use bearing spacers? They help a lot. I used to replace bearings often, but not any more with bearing spacer.

It is a good idea to use ceramic 950 bearing and they last for a very long time. I have ceramic 950 bearing for over a year and I only damaged 2 due to my bad driving earlier

simini80

Hi,

There were no bearing spacers when I ran the TB02 and Evo, do they now come as standard in the MSX MRE?
Cheers

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Hi,

The problem with the bearings used to be with the plastic rear hubs, as they allowed the bearings to move too much. As the MRE comes with the alloy hubs (which support the bearing better), and bearing spacers, this problem is pretty much gone now. I personally only use steel bearings...cheaper to replace, and still very free with the correct treatment.

Most people use the HPI hubs to run foams (tyres wider than 24mm don't fit the lwt suspension hubs without rubbing), although I do know some people who use them to gain steering (although not required with the new steering system).

The MRE was a limited edition kit...the MSXX will effectively be the production version, minus the ti screw, spool (it comes with dual-one ways), and a few other bits. It does come with the new steering (a big improvement), a thinner lower deck (2mm), and the alu motor cooling duct.

Either way (MRE or MSXX, when it arrives) you will be getting a very good car.

Any more questions, ask away

HiH
Ed

trf_racer

You can buy them separately for your EVO4 and TB-02.

The part number is 53891.