ioxqq

KilRuf and TryHard: Thanks for your help.

I think i will try the less rear drop first. On the front spring, isn't it transfer more weight to front when use stiffer front spring? Using stiffer front spring should more the car has faster reaction which means my car will break lose more easily when entering into corner. Please correct if my theory is wrong.
Ed, for the sweeper situation, you got the picture. I think the car is rolling too much too. When the car is rolling too much how come you suggest try to use softer sway bar? Isn't it has only one way to go which is use stiffer rear spring to hard sway bar? Thank you.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

A stiffer spring (high poundage) will resist the weight transfer to the front more. Think of it this way. Imagine a spring on the ground, and you jump on it, it will squash downwards due to your weight.
Now if you use a stiffer spring and jump on it, it won't squash as much, because it resists your weight more.
Effectively, this is what is happening with the weight transfer, when you let off the power into a turn, your cars weight moves forwards, which the springs attempt to resist. How stiff the springs are control how much weight is transfered.

Obviously this isn't the only function of a spring (bump and roll control being other vital aspects), but it works in a simplifed form.

Controlling how weight is transfered around the car is the key to getting good handling, more so on cars dominated by mechanical grip, (such as our RC cars), rather than aerodynamic (a full scale F1 car for example).

Yes the stiffer spring will sharpen up your initial turn-in, but after that it will reduce the amount of steering you get, as the weight can't be transfered to the front.

Droop works in effectively the same way, by limiting the down travel of the arms (and effectively how much the car squats or dives), you can limit the transfer of weight to the opposite end (i.e Front droop affects the rear of the car, rear droop the front).

One thing to be aware of with droop though, which a lot of people forget, is that it does affect your roll control. I remember a situation earlier this year, where I had big trouble with oversteer into a chicane after a long sweeper. What was happening was the car was effectively resting on the droop stop through the corner... and as soon as i asked the car to turn more, the rear end broke away. Running less droop solved this problem, despite it seeming to be the wrong thing to do (basically adding weight transfer to the front... the opposite of what was required for a car oversteering on turn-in). This is one reason why I rarely change the droop settings on the car.

Also, if you re-read my post, I did actually suggest using a stiffer rear bar

Hopefully that makes sense.

Ed

nazman01

iTrader: (35)

can someone give me a run down or comparison of the 2 cars are they pretyy much equal? and as far as set up, if i buy a refine 2 kit, what else does it need to be as good as it can be on indoor carpet? i know with the rdx i need low roll centers and some other stuff.

C_Suzuki

since when was mre discontinued?

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=49394

Stein Tumert

For the refine 2 (415 MSX MRE) I recommend to get the shorter suspension arms from the EVO5 if you plan to race on carpet...

Stein Tumert

It was annouced from day one as a limited edition kit...

DENNIS STORTI

iTrader: (42)

thanks trf415 boy so the rear will fit do u know if the bomber one for the yok belt car is bigger than the trf

LBSR415

Ok guys, burning question,,,I'm going to the snowbirds nats,,,,,I signed up for stock rubber tire on carpet,,,,never done this,,,what body style would you recommend? carpet like DNA or Alpha or my usual asphalt Mazda speed 6?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I would say, either Mazda speed6 (seems a lot of people are liking it on the rug, not tried one myself yet, will do by the end of the weekend), or the DNA2 due to be released very soon...
Otherwise the old faithful Mazda6 is always a good bet.

Ed

TRF415boy

I tried a few shells during the year and always came back to the good "old" Mazda 6. It may not have FELT the best, but track times proved it to BE, every time. If I were you I'd make sure I have one with me, always a safe bet. As a matter of fact, I decided not to bother with any other shells anymore

trf_racer

I haved tried both Mazda 6 and Ride Accord Type B. I like the Accord better because it is faster on the straight and it is more aggressive than Mazda 6, faster response.

LBSR415

thought of that too but ride bodies are not ROAR legal,,,,Thanks Guys I thing Mazda speed 6 it will be

trf_racer

Your local track races based on ROAR rules? If not, Ride Accord is definately better than Mazda 6.

TRF415boy

I personally was talking of the "real" mazda 6. I haven't tried the new one, and not planning to since all the shells i tried revealed themselves useless (last to date, moorespeed mazda, found it absolutely crap).

trf_racer

Why is Moorespeed Mazda 6 bad?