TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Make that 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0
But yeah, it's a camber gauge

halayli

at what degree should I see no gap? I have the upper arms exactly the same length. However, I still see the camber angles not the same.

TRF415boy

The camber angle is given by the number that is closest to the wheel. The arrow must face down and you should make sure the face where the arrow is pointing to is flat on the ground (the number for the degree of camber should be the proper way round for you to read). Then with that same number next to the wheel, make sure both top and bottom part of the tyre/setup wheel are flush with the gauge, then you have the correct amount of camber for that wheel. Repeat for each wheel and there you go you're set.

halayli

I did what you said, however non of the angles flushed completely with the gauge. the closest was at angle 2.0. But still there was a gap (the smallest gap between all the angles in the gauge). However I need to note again the upper arms are exactly the same length but the angles are different. Isn't that strange?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Not really... There are many things that contribute to the camber links needing to being different. Warped wheels being the biggest culprite, along with slop in the axle bearings.
Also, the other main problem is a difference between the position of the top bulkheads when mounted, as this can affect this too, this is due there being no side to side keying on the parts.
Don't forget to measure the camber with all your race equipment in the car (batts, motor, electronics etc) as this will also affect the camber setting.

Best thing is to setup it up, regarldess of the length of the links. It is more important to have equal camber side to side.
Obviously, if theres a big difference (say over 2mm) then something else is wrong with your car build.

HiH
Ed

halayli

so the camber gauge I have can set the wheel camber angle to 0.5, 1, 1.5 or 2 degrees?

JohnnyManson

i got a 415 and i need parts. front steering knuckels and the ball screws that hold them in on the top and the inserts that hold them in on the bottom. i also need a front bumper and the body inserts. i,m really new to this. i hit alot of pipes. any help would be great.

Burlap

iTrader: (6)

www.speedtechrc.com will be your best choice for Tamiya parts in the US.

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

What do you have to do to be able to use the HPI PRO4 hub carriers and spindles?

The link on TryHard's site is not working.

Thanks,

JRRobiso

Where can I purchase a pair of Tamiya or any brand of 42mm Titanium turnbuckles for my MRE? I'm currently going to use the alum ones that came with the kit but just in case I need a replacement when they break/bend when I race.

Thanks for the replies.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

haha, yeah sorry about that... still haven't got round to writing it up properly. One day...maybe.

Effectively, you need the HPI hubs, 4x 10x5mm (1050) bearings, and (this is what I prefer) the HPI/HB non-MIP style axles, they are a direct fit onto the tamiya dogbone.
Put it all together, with a 0.7mm shim on top of the hub (between that and the C-Hub) to take up the play and bingo, job done.

HiH
Ed

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

Thanks, can you also use the HPI C-Hubs?

Thanks again,

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Not sure.... I would have thought so, although you'll probably have to drill out the hinge pin hole, as they are slightly smaller (iirc) on the HPI hubs. Also, watch the dogbone for hitting the c-hub. I doubt it will be a problem (the HPI and Tam parts seem to be fairly interchangeable), just somethign to be wary of.

hih
Ed

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Lol

JRRobiso

Hi Rod,

Don't quite get the reason for that pic? Unless there's a hidden message with your post!? If you know what I'm thinking...(TRF415 for NEW user; TRF41# for ADVANCED users)

Later.

***but I could be wrong as well what I'm thinking of ***