Tamiya TRF415
Originally Posted by TryHard
How are you checking it's freeness? Have you disconected all the ball joints etc?
I've found that if the kingpins are slightly misalinged that can bind up the steering abit. Also the ball cups add friction.
With all the correct spacers, the steering should be free with none of the links connected. If it's still binding, try a 0.1mm extra between the brace and bellcranks.
HiH
Ed
I've found that if the kingpins are slightly misalinged that can bind up the steering abit. Also the ball cups add friction.
With all the correct spacers, the steering should be free with none of the links connected. If it's still binding, try a 0.1mm extra between the brace and bellcranks.
HiH
Ed
Originally Posted by axle182
noticed that too, i used a little thread lock and didnt tighten it all the way down. So there is no slop, and no binding.
Also i checked the chassis plates against each other, and couldnt see a reason why i cant use the 4mm chassis with the MRE (except extra holes) I did notice that the steering is very close to the chassis, but if you put both spacers which go on the steering shafts, under the steering arms, i wonder if that would be enought to clear? I might run the steering shaft in upside down, and space it out. Im sure theres an easy solution
Also i checked the chassis plates against each other, and couldnt see a reason why i cant use the 4mm chassis with the MRE (except extra holes) I did notice that the steering is very close to the chassis, but if you put both spacers which go on the steering shafts, under the steering arms, i wonder if that would be enought to clear? I might run the steering shaft in upside down, and space it out. Im sure theres an easy solution
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Why? from what i saw, the suspension mounts between the MSX and the MRE are the same at the front are they not? So the bridge is in the same location, all your doing is raising the steering right? Ill re-double check tonight.... Cheers
Originally Posted by axle182
Why? from what i saw, the suspension mounts between the MSX and the MRE are the same at the front are they not? So the bridge is in the same location, all your doing is raising the steering right? Ill re-double check tonight.... Cheers
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Ahhhh makes so much more sense now. Thanks TRF.
Originally Posted by axle182
Ahhhh makes so much more sense now. Thanks TRF.
Tech Master
I just ran my 415 tonight and it felt much different from past weeks of racing. I didn't even change the setup a bit.
1. It "pushes". If I go full throttle and then let go of the throttle, the car goes fast, then it stops. This means it doesn't carry any speed at all. Mind you I am running a one way in front with a locked center pulley.
1. It "pushes". If I go full throttle and then let go of the throttle, the car goes fast, then it stops. This means it doesn't carry any speed at all. Mind you I am running a one way in front with a locked center pulley.
Heres my 415 freshly rebuilt and looking good
Originally Posted by DOMOisCOOL
I just ran my 415 tonight and it felt much different from past weeks of racing. I didn't even change the setup a bit.
1. It "pushes". If I go full throttle and then let go of the throttle, the car goes fast, then it stops. This means it doesn't carry any speed at all. Mind you I am running a one way in front with a locked center pulley.
1. It "pushes". If I go full throttle and then let go of the throttle, the car goes fast, then it stops. This means it doesn't carry any speed at all. Mind you I am running a one way in front with a locked center pulley.
Originally Posted by Tek Nickal
I can second that, I ran his car last night, (because I broke my own 415 and didn't have parts), and well, you have to go more than half throttle to go around a corner, and it feels as if there's a drag before acellerating (could be a belt skipping), and the car pushes, also its really twitchy.
Hmm, Andrew you should check to see if your hingepins are straight, and the suspension can fall under its own weight, if your shocks have air in them, if the one-way is binding, or anything else thats pretty simple.
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Drivetrain...what a DRAG!
Sounds like a drivetrain issue. Check your one'way and center pully to make sure it didn't sieze up on you! That could cause most of what you discribed! Take off the pinion and see if the wheels spin freely. For that matter, just check everything!
ETC.ETC.ETC.
ETC.ETC.ETC.
Hi...
Can anybody help me..Can I use the MSX rear belt for MRE.. I've count the teeth , msx = 59 t , MRE = 60 .
Thanks...
Can anybody help me..Can I use the MSX rear belt for MRE.. I've count the teeth , msx = 59 t , MRE = 60 .
Thanks...
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Yes you can, you just need to have the belts tensioner set looser. I'm pretty sure the main difference between the two is just the tooth count.
I'm still not sure there is a pitch difference between the belts, I need to have a close look at two new belts to tell. IF there is any difference, it's minscule. Put it this way, I ran a spare white MSX belt on my MRE the past weekend (after the front belt snapped), and it was fine. Just have to set the tensioners looser.
HiH
Ed
I'm still not sure there is a pitch difference between the belts, I need to have a close look at two new belts to tell. IF there is any difference, it's minscule. Put it this way, I ran a spare white MSX belt on my MRE the past weekend (after the front belt snapped), and it was fine. Just have to set the tensioners looser.
HiH
Ed
Tech Adept
damper Piston question
Hello guys, can you help me?
What's the diameter of the holes of the TRF DAmper Piston 3-hole (part 53573), is it 1.1mm or 1.2mm or ...
Thanks a lot
What's the diameter of the holes of the TRF DAmper Piston 3-hole (part 53573), is it 1.1mm or 1.2mm or ...
Thanks a lot