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Old 09-05-2006, 09:15 AM
  #15571  
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Originally Posted by TryHard
How are you checking it's freeness? Have you disconected all the ball joints etc?
I've found that if the kingpins are slightly misalinged that can bind up the steering abit. Also the ball cups add friction.
With all the correct spacers, the steering should be free with none of the links connected. If it's still binding, try a 0.1mm extra between the brace and bellcranks.

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Tryhard: I have got the 2 steering links disconnected. The whole steering rack moves left and right easily with a slight tap when the 2 screws (3X8mm) are loosen, but upon tightening, it moves but with a little force exerted. Perhaps I should try an extra 0.1mm shim and see how it goes. Cheers.
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Old 09-05-2006, 11:52 AM
  #15572  
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Originally Posted by axle182
noticed that too, i used a little thread lock and didnt tighten it all the way down. So there is no slop, and no binding.

Also i checked the chassis plates against each other, and couldnt see a reason why i cant use the 4mm chassis with the MRE (except extra holes) I did notice that the steering is very close to the chassis, but if you put both spacers which go on the steering shafts, under the steering arms, i wonder if that would be enought to clear? I might run the steering shaft in upside down, and space it out. Im sure theres an easy solution
your steering will hit the bridge block that's why the 4mm chassis won't fit.
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:11 PM
  #15573  
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Why? from what i saw, the suspension mounts between the MSX and the MRE are the same at the front are they not? So the bridge is in the same location, all your doing is raising the steering right? Ill re-double check tonight.... Cheers
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:41 PM
  #15574  
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Originally Posted by axle182
Why? from what i saw, the suspension mounts between the MSX and the MRE are the same at the front are they not? So the bridge is in the same location, all your doing is raising the steering right? Ill re-double check tonight.... Cheers
no the 4mm chassis was designed to use the std suspension and so it uses the 48.5mm hinge pins, which means that the bridge is 2.5mm further back compared to the MSX/MRE.
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Old 09-05-2006, 01:06 PM
  #15575  
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Ahhhh makes so much more sense now. Thanks TRF.
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Old 09-05-2006, 01:30 PM
  #15576  
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Originally Posted by axle182
Ahhhh makes so much more sense now. Thanks TRF.
well all i did was explain with other words what dick raper said...
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Old 09-06-2006, 01:08 AM
  #15577  
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I just ran my 415 tonight and it felt much different from past weeks of racing. I didn't even change the setup a bit.

1. It "pushes". If I go full throttle and then let go of the throttle, the car goes fast, then it stops. This means it doesn't carry any speed at all. Mind you I am running a one way in front with a locked center pulley.
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Old 09-06-2006, 05:40 AM
  #15578  
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Heres my 415 freshly rebuilt and looking good



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Old 09-06-2006, 02:46 PM
  #15579  
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Originally Posted by DOMOisCOOL
I just ran my 415 tonight and it felt much different from past weeks of racing. I didn't even change the setup a bit.

1. It "pushes". If I go full throttle and then let go of the throttle, the car goes fast, then it stops. This means it doesn't carry any speed at all. Mind you I am running a one way in front with a locked center pulley.
I can second that, I ran his car last night, (because I broke my own 415 and didn't have parts), and well, you have to go more than half throttle to go around a corner, and it feels as if there's a drag before acellerating (could be a belt skipping), and the car pushes, also its really twitchy.
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Old 09-06-2006, 03:00 PM
  #15580  
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Originally Posted by Tek Nickal
I can second that, I ran his car last night, (because I broke my own 415 and didn't have parts), and well, you have to go more than half throttle to go around a corner, and it feels as if there's a drag before acellerating (could be a belt skipping), and the car pushes, also its really twitchy.
take it to bits and check it, especially the hinge pins and the toe blocks for straightness...
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Old 09-06-2006, 03:02 PM
  #15581  
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Hmm, Andrew you should check to see if your hingepins are straight, and the suspension can fall under its own weight, if your shocks have air in them, if the one-way is binding, or anything else thats pretty simple.
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Old 09-06-2006, 04:03 PM
  #15582  
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Unhappy Drivetrain...what a DRAG!

Sounds like a drivetrain issue. Check your one'way and center pully to make sure it didn't sieze up on you! That could cause most of what you discribed! Take off the pinion and see if the wheels spin freely. For that matter, just check everything!
ETC.ETC.ETC.
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Old 09-07-2006, 02:25 AM
  #15583  
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Hi...
Can anybody help me..Can I use the MSX rear belt for MRE.. I've count the teeth , msx = 59 t , MRE = 60 .

Thanks...
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Old 09-07-2006, 03:16 AM
  #15584  
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Yes you can, you just need to have the belts tensioner set looser. I'm pretty sure the main difference between the two is just the tooth count.

I'm still not sure there is a pitch difference between the belts, I need to have a close look at two new belts to tell. IF there is any difference, it's minscule. Put it this way, I ran a spare white MSX belt on my MRE the past weekend (after the front belt snapped), and it was fine. Just have to set the tensioners looser.

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Old 09-07-2006, 05:05 AM
  #15585  
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Default damper Piston question

Hello guys, can you help me?

What's the diameter of the holes of the TRF DAmper Piston 3-hole (part 53573), is it 1.1mm or 1.2mm or ...

Thanks a lot
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