Rc12R5 VS GenX 1/12
#1
Rc12R5 VS GenX 1/12
What car do you choose? Tell me Why you like this car
Pros cons of these cars
Price:
Racing:
Handle:
Overall:
What you think about and witch 1 is better
Pros cons of these cars
Price:
Racing:
Handle:
Overall:
What you think about and witch 1 is better
#2
Tech Elite
iTrader: (152)
I like the 12r5 shocks,way cool.
I hate the material the front end parts are made out of, you tag a wall or two,and the front end gets sloppy,steering blocks get sloppy,piviot balls get sloppy upper eyelets get sloppy, the only way to fix it seems to be,to buy new front end parts,or stay away from the boards(yea right).
the gen x front end,you can take up the slop.
so in my book it's crc or go home.
I hate the material the front end parts are made out of, you tag a wall or two,and the front end gets sloppy,steering blocks get sloppy,piviot balls get sloppy upper eyelets get sloppy, the only way to fix it seems to be,to buy new front end parts,or stay away from the boards(yea right).
the gen x front end,you can take up the slop.
so in my book it's crc or go home.
#3
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
I like the 12r5 shocks,way cool.
I hate the material the front end parts are made out of, you tag a wall or two,and the front end gets sloppy,steering blocks get sloppy,piviot balls get sloppy upper eyelets get sloppy, the only way to fix it seems to be,to buy new front end parts,or stay away from the boards(yea right).
the gen x front end,you can take up the slop.
so in my book it's crc or go home.
I hate the material the front end parts are made out of, you tag a wall or two,and the front end gets sloppy,steering blocks get sloppy,piviot balls get sloppy upper eyelets get sloppy, the only way to fix it seems to be,to buy new front end parts,or stay away from the boards(yea right).
the gen x front end,you can take up the slop.
so in my book it's crc or go home.
The springs in the R5 compress after a while and need to be shimmed. Other than that it seems to take major abuse and keep on ticking.
One advantage the CRC has over the AE is the installation of a BL motor with their open rear pod. But it isn't very hard to remove four screws from the R5 and how often do you need to change BL motors?
#6
gen x
to me there are 5 things that i think makes the gen x stand apart from others.
1- the rear springs sit on flat graphite, not a link that can move and effect tweak
2- the front king pins are adjustable, no need to play with shims
3- the lower pivot ball can be tightened or loosened. when i had a 12r5 the lower balls would never be th esame left to right, one always had more slop. i tried different balls, new arms, never seemed to be perfect.
4- genx offers a long front ball set up that just gives you more tunebility in your front end.
5- no battery tape!!!
and i believe the car is on sale on crcs website, so i dont think there is a 50 dollar difference. just my opinion..
1- the rear springs sit on flat graphite, not a link that can move and effect tweak
2- the front king pins are adjustable, no need to play with shims
3- the lower pivot ball can be tightened or loosened. when i had a 12r5 the lower balls would never be th esame left to right, one always had more slop. i tried different balls, new arms, never seemed to be perfect.
4- genx offers a long front ball set up that just gives you more tunebility in your front end.
5- no battery tape!!!
and i believe the car is on sale on crcs website, so i dont think there is a 50 dollar difference. just my opinion..
#7
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
I just bought a new GenX at 360 Speedway for $199, and they threw in the wide rear pod kit with it. I'm pretty sure they still have one left on the wall at that price.
As far as:
Racing: completely agree with AreCee
Handle: completely agree with AreCee
Overall: completely agree with AreCee
Which one is better? I have to say the GenX is WAY better, because I just bought one. Seriously, just like AreCee said, both cars are excellent, I doubt you'd go wrong with either one. If I were going to choose one right now, I'd look at which car had better parts support locally. Actually, I can think of one other factor... If you have all metric tools, go for the 12R5. If you have all Imperial sized tools, go for the GenX. If you have both, or don't mind buying some tools, it's back to both are great cars, take your pick.
#8
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Stormer used to price them like: R5 $199.99 and Gen X $249.99 which is what I based the $50 difference on.
If I had to buy another today I would be tempted to go with the CRC because that is the most pervasive car at the track I race at. At another one I race at it is the BMI and at a third it's the R5. What that means is that the track owner sells the most of whatever they can make a better margin on rather than the better car.
If I had to buy another today I would be tempted to go with the CRC because that is the most pervasive car at the track I race at. At another one I race at it is the BMI and at a third it's the R5. What that means is that the track owner sells the most of whatever they can make a better margin on rather than the better car.
#9
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
I had a Gen-X before switching to the SpeedMerchant Rev.5, and a few guys at my track have the 12r5, so are a few plus and minuses of each:
Gen-X
- Plastic side links
- Aluminum ball studs for side links
- Brass set screw in Aluminum Steering Block for King Pin
- Aluminum Steering blocks not very durable, bend and strip
- pivot balls bend
+ Carbon Fiber is top quality and cut very clean
+ Bulkheads are strong and true
+ good support and optional parts direct from CRC
12R5
- motor bulkhead weak aluminum, bends easily
- aluminum front suspension parts bend easily
- damper shock pain can be a PITA
- Metric screws - no aluminum screws kits available yet
+ good parts support
+ low cost
Gen-X
- Plastic side links
- Aluminum ball studs for side links
- Brass set screw in Aluminum Steering Block for King Pin
- Aluminum Steering blocks not very durable, bend and strip
- pivot balls bend
+ Carbon Fiber is top quality and cut very clean
+ Bulkheads are strong and true
+ good support and optional parts direct from CRC
12R5
- motor bulkhead weak aluminum, bends easily
- aluminum front suspension parts bend easily
- damper shock pain can be a PITA
- Metric screws - no aluminum screws kits available yet
+ good parts support
+ low cost
#10
If you're just starting out in 1/12 scale, if you get a chassis that relies on a large O-ring to hold the batteries in (CRC, BMI), do yourself a favor and still use tape. As a beginner, you *will* hit things, and the O-ring alone will still allow the batteries to move in the event of a crash. This will cause bent or broken center shocks. My son did this quite a few times, until I added tape to hold the batteries in. A roll of tape is a lot cheaper than replacing one or two shock bodies/shafts per week.
#14
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
I had a Gen-X before switching to the SpeedMerchant Rev.5, and a few guys at my track have the 12r5, so are a few plus and minuses of each:
Gen-X
- Plastic side links
- Aluminum ball studs for side links
- Brass set screw in Aluminum Steering Block for King Pin
- Aluminum Steering blocks not very durable, bend and strip
- pivot balls bend
+ Carbon Fiber is top quality and cut very clean
+ Bulkheads are strong and true
+ good support and optional parts direct from CRC
12R5
- motor bulkhead weak aluminum, bends easily
- aluminum front suspension parts bend easily
- damper shock pain can be a PITA
- Metric screws - no aluminum screws kits available yet
+ good parts support
+ low cost
Gen-X
- Plastic side links
- Aluminum ball studs for side links
- Brass set screw in Aluminum Steering Block for King Pin
- Aluminum Steering blocks not very durable, bend and strip
- pivot balls bend
+ Carbon Fiber is top quality and cut very clean
+ Bulkheads are strong and true
+ good support and optional parts direct from CRC
12R5
- motor bulkhead weak aluminum, bends easily
- aluminum front suspension parts bend easily
- damper shock pain can be a PITA
- Metric screws - no aluminum screws kits available yet
+ good parts support
+ low cost
Wow!! How hard are you hitting the walls to bend theR5 motor mount and front bulkheads??
The worst that ever happens to my R5's rear pod is the motor mount screws loosening up and the motor slides forward (13.5 BL) losing the gear mesh. Including hitting hard enough to break a wheel at the hub with no damage to the car.
The worst that ever happen in the front is the loss of a kingpin e-clip and ultimately the spring. I did finish the race in third with one side of the chassis dragging on the ground because the other four CRCs all broke something.
#15
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
If you're just starting out in 1/12 scale, if you get a chassis that relies on a large O-ring to hold the batteries in (CRC, BMI), do yourself a favor and still use tape. As a beginner, you *will* hit things, and the O-ring alone will still allow the batteries to move in the event of a crash. This will cause bent or broken center shocks. My son did this quite a few times, until I added tape to hold the batteries in. A roll of tape is a lot cheaper than replacing one or two shock bodies/shafts per week.