What has been posted by mok is the starting point, this is where u make sure your car is symmetrical from left to right. The numbers at this point dont really mean much or matter. In fact the numbers are most times not at all transferable from chassis to chassis.
STEP ONE: (make your car symmetrical)
- detach wheels, shocks and stabilizers
- stand car on droop blocks
- using droop gauge, slide it under the outer hinge pin on the lower arm and measure the reading
- make sure are equal both left and right, setting the required figure on the droop gauge
Track side or race ready settings)
-Prep car in race ready condition(ready to hit the track)
-measure ride height and set to where u want it front and back
-now measure ride height and full suspension extension, lift shock tower up and allow the chassis to rise to its highest position without the wheels lifting the ground.
and you will get your DROOP setting. This number is what we use at the track when we talk droop. Dont matter what the chassis if i say i run 2mm of droop you can also run 2mm by adjusting your brand XYZ in the same manner.
-EXample A=5mm and B=7mm then DROOP=2mm
It can get confusing with many correct ways of explaining it, but the bottom line is Ride height is subtracted from the chassis at fully extended shock position.