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Old 03-07-2012, 09:40 AM   #1801
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Originally Posted by axle182 View Post
Dont suppose you have a pic? Did you use solder or a small amount of wire to short the switch? Love the idea for TC, but not for 12th, its too hard to plug in the batt with the body on. But no switch would definately help the look of the 12th
Yep, small piece of wire. There's room in there, so you don't have to make it so short it's hard to do.

I've kinda reached the point where a switch on a dongle is a pet peeve of mine. The new Hobbywing V3 with the integrated switch got it right.
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:07 AM   #1802
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Thanks, actually it wasn't that bad. Just take your time, steady hands, and use your common sense the whole way through. Make sure you pay attention to the way the lead goes.

Little things that helped: when you shorten the TQ wire, dab a little flux on the end, and then a dab of solder. Keeps the tiny wires together.

Use flux, and do one at a time on the board, holding each one down with a small flat head. Also I had a vice to hold the rs itself.
I've never understood people who shorten the wires by crimping, soldering to plug pins or just by cutting a bit off and soldering back together. I'ts so much hassle compared to just cutting the lead and resoldering inside the servo. Those solder points are not so small, if you got a steady hand you don't even need too small of an iron. Though there are some exceptions - anybody who has tried to shorten the wire on higher end sanwa servos knows what i am talking about.
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:39 AM   #1803
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I've never understood people who shorten the wires by crimping, soldering to plug pins or just by cutting a bit off and soldering back together. I'ts so much hassle compared to just cutting the lead and resoldering inside the servo. Those solder points are not so small, if you got a steady hand you don't even need too small of an iron. Though there are some exceptions - anybody who has tried to shorten the wire on higher end sanwa servos knows what i am talking about.
I like just buying those gold connectors that fit inside the plug then snip the wires at length desired then solder gold connectors to wire then pop in plug again

Last edited by Infinite 12th; 03-07-2012 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:01 PM   #1804
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i might have to crack open my savox servos in the future to shorten them.
ive done the tekin esc rewire which really wasnt any worse than soldering to any other small electronic bits. might save myself some future grief.
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:44 PM   #1805
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I'm always impressed by the neat wiring on this thread - some amazing examples here!

Also, many thanks for your support. If you guys have a suggestion or a need for something that's not currently available, send me a PM or email.
Props to TQ, ordered today, Paid today, they shipped today and sent a refund for lower than expected shipping charges. Now thats service! Thanks Ralph. Ill be sure to put up pics when ive got it all done. I have a sweet R5.1 Lipo car ive been wanting to pimp
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:45 AM   #1806
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Originally Posted by Marten View Post
I've never understood people who shorten the wires by crimping, soldering to plug pins or just by cutting a bit off and soldering back together. I'ts so much hassle compared to just cutting the lead and resoldering inside the servo. Those solder points are not so small, if you got a steady hand you don't even need too small of an iron. Though there are some exceptions - anybody who has tried to shorten the wire on higher end sanwa servos knows what i am talking about.
If you're like me, it's because you're not totally proficient or confident in doing it straight to the board itself.

I have badly pinched the wires leading from the esc to the receiver. I opended up my RX8 esc and looked at it and saw how small the connections were and thought while I could probably do it, I didn't want to go experimenting with it as I just don't have the funds right now to replace the RX8 in the event I stuff it.

My biggest concern would be getting too much solder in there and leading to a situation where solder was passing the current between two or more of the connections.

So for my, cutting down the wire itself, and grafting on some new wire is a lot less of a risk than getting into the ESC and attempting a clean install from the ESC board itself.

If grafting some new wire onto the end before where I pinched the original cable doesn't have any adverse effects and is easier for me to do with confidence, I think I would rather take that route.....
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:14 PM   #1807
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Got to show a little love for SC trucks!!! Not to many on this thread

Cheers
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:38 AM   #1808
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Cheers for that, I'm deffiently going to give that a shot with the Savox when my TQ order turns up.

Anyway, latest install at the moment... waiting on a few more bits to arrive, but I am digging the red motor wire, matches the batt good (and only reason I used it was had run out of black!!)

Fan wire needs tidying up, but difficult to route... any ideas? Otherwise, ESC wire needs lengthening to allow better routing, but given it's a HW V3, once it's in the Rx, never needs to come out again as all programming is done via the front port! And the inbuilt switch (with back lit LED) is pimp!

Ed
Had to make a change to the wiring so I can switch between transverse and longitudinal motor layouts without re-wiring whilst testing this weekend... actually doesn't look as bad as I expected!
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:54 AM   #1809
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Had to make a change to the wiring so I can switch between transverse and longitudinal motor layouts without re-wiring whilst testing this weekend... actually doesn't look as bad as I expected!
Way to show off the new V3
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:28 AM   #1810
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Had to make a change to the wiring so I can switch between transverse and longitudinal motor layouts without re-wiring whilst testing this weekend... actually doesn't look as bad as I expected!
Any comment on transverse and longitudinal motor layouts ? Which one is easier for setup, drive.....etc....
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:00 AM   #1811
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Way to show off the new V3


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Originally Posted by mos-leung View Post
Any comment on transverse and longitudinal motor layouts ? Which one is easier for setup, drive.....etc....
With this car, the transverse gives more roll. The weight is further from the centreline, as the battery needs to be moved out 5mm to balance the car up. This does effect the setting of the car (needs to be a little stiffer), but I've got more testing to do before forming a firm conclusion!
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Old 03-10-2012, 03:37 AM   #1812
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oh this is defiantly my section, will post up pictures of my VDF Wiring once the forum will let me post pictures hahahaha, great wiring jobs everyone, specially the awesomatix 700
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:43 AM   #1813
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Default t3`2012 wire job

Hi guys.

After reading through this thread, and seeing all those clean installation pictures I thought I give it a try on my new T3`2012. What you think?

mritual.de/t312/t312_wire.jpg

I can't make it a link/image since I'm a new member sorry about that , copy/paste the url to view the picture. Again, sorry.

Patrick
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Old 03-10-2012, 11:47 AM   #1814
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Let's see if we can make Patrick's picture appear...yup! Pretty cool work. All you guys make me jealous. I'm the opposite of neat when it comes to wiring.

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Old 03-10-2012, 12:45 PM   #1815
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Let's see if we can make Patrick's picture appear...yup! Pretty cool work. All you guys make me jealous. I'm the opposite of neat when it comes to wiring.
Thanks monkeyracing, for both the link and the kind words.

Last edited by Patrick_S; 03-10-2012 at 01:11 PM.
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