racenut123

iTrader: (32)

I am desperate! I have and evo3 surikarn that is glitching like crazy.It has a Futaba 9450 servo,Novak XXTRA reciever and a Ko VFS2000 Speedo.I didnt have any problems with my car initially with the car glitching,but recently I switched my Speedo to a TRF 2000 speddo{same as the Ko except sold by Tamiya} and put a Personal Transponder on the car and Now it glitches like crazy.I tried putting in a new XXTRA receiver.I also used a brand new M8 and it still glitches.I also added like 3-4 caps on the motor to suppress it.Nothing!It usually only happens when there are others on 75 band near me on the drivers stand.When I am by myself on the stand,nothing.A main time,I wanna throw my radio!
My reciever was mounted on the servo at first then I mounted it on the chassis standing up.I have tried everything.I think.

Anything I am missing here?By the way I am on 75 band with an M8 with the switch Module.Anyone else have problems with this combo or components?All I know is when I put this electronics gear in My FT tc3....no problems what so ever.HELP!

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

1. remove the old capacitors from your motor and put brand new ones on

2. use 2-3 layers of servo tape on all components

3.does it still do it when you unhook the transponder?

4. Buy a KO!!LOL

5. check for vibration on your chassis (aluminum/graphite parts not snug???)

stonedgti

iTrader: (15)

If you have the personal transponder on top of the servo, take it off and put it on the top deck. Mine used to clitch like crazy when I put that on the servo.

Did you try putting different motors on the car? When you cut the comms too much on the motor, it causes clitching also.

I don't know what else you can try except changing to 29 or 40Mhz

prodriver

I also had a monster stock do this, the problem was the brushes by changing the brushes it stopped glitching, this wasn't because the brush was old, I tried new and old and as soon as I put a certain compound brush in the motor it glitched like made.

What brushes are you running?

Ricky Copsey

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

Cross cut 99 brush.I also ran 767's

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

Try and different set of module and receiver. Just borrow someone's 27mhz module and receiver really quick to test out your car. Also, like other says, get the personal transponder away from the other electronics. Lastly, do a process of elimination and change one thing at a time so you don't get confused.

Steve Wang

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

I tried a new switch and xxtra. a new Speedo, different location for reciever and the personal transponder has been on the front bumper nowhere near the other electronics.I must admit,in practice,I have no problems.Get a bunch on the drivers stand,and man my car goes crazy.Only at different parts of the track though.Not everywhere just specific points on the track.And this has happened at 2 tracks this weekend.Everytime I passed timing yesterday I had a severe glitch and everytime I got on the straight.I am just wondering if anyone is having specific problem with Either the Novak products with Carbon fiber chassis because in my FTTC3 I have no issues and with my Race Tamiya mini,I never had a glitch the whole time.I run the exact same electronics in these cars.I just wonder if its worth having the convienience of the switch.I am thinking of switching to 27 band on Funny crystals.Or buying a Helios and call it a day.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

my car was glitching like a...well you know... anyways. the servo tape thing works really well..and i also put a small piece of antenna pipe to cover the antenna wire thats exposed from where it comes out of the receiver..and goes into the antenna holder. (if you need a picture. Email me)

in my barracuda, this was exposed..and would sometimes touch the graphite upper deck (where glitching can occur as many people have told me).

after putting in that piece... the glitching went away.

also make sure your crystals are still good and that the connectors aren't dirty or bent (another cause of my glitching this past weekend.)

hope that helps.

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Racenut- I had the EXACT same problem!!! I was using a KO digital servo, TC2, XXL, 75MHZ M8 and my p.t. was mounted on the servo. First move the transponder. If that doesn't fix it then make sure all wires are away from the battery wires. If possible, swap modules and crystals with someone not having glitching. Now change brushes or put a good new motor in.

After you have eliminted those possibilities, you can try what I had to end up trying. I got some of those old school disc style cpacitors we used to use on motors, took a servo plug, cut the wires off of it leaving the pins in it, trimmed the cap leads and stuck two of them into the plug. Then I got two of those magnets used for reducing RF noise (can't think of the name) and put one on my battery posisitve wire and one over the ESC reciever wires. A. Hara uses them on his cars. You can look at the pictures of the Japanese Electric Finals on hpiracing.com if you want to se his car.

Anyway, I saw a few small glitches yesterday (real minor stuff) but otherwise for the first time in months I was able to race without my car shooting itself into the wall at full speed in MONTHs!!!! And I'm not kidding!!! I was so beat down from glitching that I didn't even want to race anymore.

Good luck bro- I feel your pain

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Racenut, you just descibed my same problem EXACTLY!!!!!

BTW- I tried a whole NEW CAR (Xray T1R), new Tamiya TRF2002 (KO VFS2000), NEW KO 301 receiver, new wires, and STILL had the problem!!!!

Since you have tried all that stuff, you need to try my tricks above. The bigest problem is that it WON"T DO IT IN PRACTICE!!! You have to have other radios around to reproduce the problem, so you don't know if you fixed it until the damn heats!!!!! Heck, my ears turn red just thinking about it!!!

We need to figure out where to get those magnet things. One of mine is a JR used for aircraft servos, and the other came with something I got for my computer... can't remember.

Good luck again bro!

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

Exactly!I have been racing with this problem for months now and I must say it has cost me races every race day.It has caused me to break at the most inoppurtune times and I must say its frustrating.I can barely keep the car togther for a whole run before it starts to glitch like crazy and it seems like I cant run a consistant race anymore. Which absolutely sucks.

One thing is my Positive Battery wire is pretty close to my antenna wire and my personal transponder wire is als pretty close.I know hara runs the twister speedo which is the same as the Ko and Trf speedo.He runs those magnetic tubes over his wires like you mentioned and also I noticed he also runs a reciever battery.Dosek who also runs a Ko speedo runs a battery pack for the receiver.Could this be part of the problem?I noticed that with this speedo when you get close to dumping you lose control of steering temporarily like the BEC circutry is not supplying juice to the servo at a constant but instead keeping the motor running.Strange.

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Possibly, but I had the same crap with a TC2, so it's not the speedo as far as what manufacturer it is... I think the caps might be what helped the most, but since I did it all at once I can't be sure. I'm going to go to the electronics suply store and try to find a little larger capacity cap that is about the same size.

Anyone know where to get those magnetic RF supressors?

rcprix

try putting a ferrite on the wires connecting the esc to your motor, or if you dont have it, a spiral wrap perhaps.. since you said you have changed everything, why dont you change the motor instead like what BigDogRacing suggested!

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

I did change Motor.

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

Where do you get those ferrite magnets tubes?