1/12, 6 cells, preferrably no t-bar
#1
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
1/12, 6 cells, preferrably no t-bar
I'm looking to get back into 1/12th, but I'm hhaving trouble deciding on a car. Finding 1/12 kits at all, let alone with my picky requests, is pretty hard. Here's what I've come up with, in no particular order:
*Corally SP12M w/tube damper conv. ($130 + $100 = $230)
*CRC Six Pack v1.1 ($140)
*Speedmerchant RoadKill 12 ($250)
Short list, isn't it?
I haven't raced 1/12 since Bolink was big, so my knowledge iif these cars is limited to what I've been able to dig up with Google.
The RoadKill 12 seems like it's the best package value for everything I want, but it's half as costly to go with the CRC if I compromise on a t-bar. The Corally ends up almost double it's original cost to get rid of that t-bar.
Thoughts?
-dave
*Corally SP12M w/tube damper conv. ($130 + $100 = $230)
*CRC Six Pack v1.1 ($140)
*Speedmerchant RoadKill 12 ($250)
Short list, isn't it?
I haven't raced 1/12 since Bolink was big, so my knowledge iif these cars is limited to what I've been able to dig up with Google.
The RoadKill 12 seems like it's the best package value for everything I want, but it's half as costly to go with the CRC if I compromise on a t-bar. The Corally ends up almost double it's original cost to get rid of that t-bar.
Thoughts?
-dave
#2
Dave, they all have T-bars don't they?
Or do you mean Corally's upper pod?
As I see it, first choice cheap or expensive.
If you go for the expensive side, Second choice, whatr are the main differences between the RoadKill and the Corally?
How about parts supply?
Will you be racing carpet or outside?
Bumpy or flat?
Why do you esp. want the tubes?
Well I've got a Coraly M with dampers on order as is.
So my choice has been made.
When I raced it I'll keep you posted.
Good luck.
Or do you mean Corally's upper pod?
As I see it, first choice cheap or expensive.
If you go for the expensive side, Second choice, whatr are the main differences between the RoadKill and the Corally?
How about parts supply?
Will you be racing carpet or outside?
Bumpy or flat?
Why do you esp. want the tubes?
Well I've got a Coraly M with dampers on order as is.
So my choice has been made.
When I raced it I'll keep you posted.
Good luck.
#3
Just wondering, why are you looking for a 6 cell car? ROAR no longer runs 6 cell classe, and (at least in my area) no one runs them. They kill tires and wear out everythign else faster. mind as well just run 4 cell 19t (although with today's batts and motors 4 cell stock is pretty fast as well).
As far as 4 cell cars, I would highly suggest the Rev 3. It is just plain fast and easy to work on (its won the nationals every year for quit some time now, and i have seen the cars of the guys who have one it, and they are basically stock, no special tricks or factory only parts).
As far as 4 cell cars, I would highly suggest the Rev 3. It is just plain fast and easy to work on (its won the nationals every year for quit some time now, and i have seen the cars of the guys who have one it, and they are basically stock, no special tricks or factory only parts).
#4
Corally -junk. you woul be better off making your own car out of plywood and bricks. it would probably be lighter too.
#5
daption i race a quad 12 its a conversion kit for the 12 l3 dpowell is working on trying to sell it as a kit as for the corrally it has its place (somewhere) it works good but its expensive to run and to get into as for the other cars they are all good you need to figure out which car is going to make it easier on you if you break and if you can go to your local hobby store and get parts.
your best bet if you are just getting back into 12 scale is get the 12L3 which has a six cell chassis which can run with 4 cells anyway and alot of their factory guys run it. and later when you get confortable with the car you can venture out into a conversion kit (quad 12 t-plate no taping battery, or the irs rug rat)or get a different car! you can get a new 12 l3 for under $150.00 or find a used one for under $75.00. good luck man now a days they are all good cars (a little hint the corally breaks front ends alot!)
your best bet if you are just getting back into 12 scale is get the 12L3 which has a six cell chassis which can run with 4 cells anyway and alot of their factory guys run it. and later when you get confortable with the car you can venture out into a conversion kit (quad 12 t-plate no taping battery, or the irs rug rat)or get a different car! you can get a new 12 l3 for under $150.00 or find a used one for under $75.00. good luck man now a days they are all good cars (a little hint the corally breaks front ends alot!)
#6
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
Originally posted by stormperson
Just wondering, why are you looking for a 6 cell car?
Just wondering, why are you looking for a 6 cell car?
-dave
#7
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
Originally posted by PizzaDude
Dave, they all have T-bars don't they?
Or do you mean Corally's upper pod?
Dave, they all have T-bars don't they?
Or do you mean Corally's upper pod?
Basically, I want to get away from t-bars because of theit instability. When I used to race, I was re-tweaking my car every 5 minutes because the fiberglass was never consistant. If I took a hit on the track my tweak changed. If I used the same t-bar for too long, the fberglass lost some of it's 'bounce'. Basically everything that annoyed me about 1/12 was related to the t-bars. If I'm going to get back into it for fun, I'd like to at least remove some of the annoyance form it.
As I see it, first choice cheap or expensive.
If you go for the expensive side, Second choice, whatr are the main differences between the RoadKill and the Corally?
How about parts supply?
Will you be racing carpet or outside?
Bumpy or flat?
If you go for the expensive side, Second choice, whatr are the main differences between the RoadKill and the Corally?
How about parts supply?
Will you be racing carpet or outside?
Bumpy or flat?
I'll be racing indoor on carpet for the most part.
As for the differences between the cars, aside from what the web pages say, I really don't know. Hence my question. I'm trying to get feedback from people who actually own them.
Why do you esp. want the tubes?
-dave
#8
modern t-plate materials are better i can go a couple months with them and replace them as regular maintanece just incase!
the cars are better now than those banditi/eliminator 12 days daption.
the cars are better now than those banditi/eliminator 12 days daption.
#9
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
Originally posted by speedxl
daption i race a quad 12 its a conversion kit for the 12 l3
<snip>
daption i race a quad 12 its a conversion kit for the 12 l3
<snip>
For what it's worth, I'm presently looking for a beater 12L/LS/L3, since I know the car and it's possible to find them pretty cheap. The downside is that I won't be changing what I disliked about 1/12 before, although I suppose I could always just ignore the hourly adjustments in the name of fun.
-dave
#10
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
Originally posted by speedxl
modern t-plate materials are better i can go a couple months with them and replace them as regular maintanece just incase!
the cars are better now than those bandit/eliminator 12 days daption.
modern t-plate materials are better i can go a couple months with them and replace them as regular maintanece just incase!
the cars are better now than those bandit/eliminator 12 days daption.
Are the t-plates still as tweak-unfriendly tho? What I mean is, do they still get thrown out of whack if you get sideswiped or tag a disc?
-dave
#11
dave the car is made by a guy in colorado named doug powell
prc, if you go to 12 scale forum scroll through it and look for dpowell his website crashed email him and he will respond quickly he is an honest guy and very knowlegable he'll help you out!
tell him i sent you for the discount
prc, if you go to 12 scale forum scroll through it and look for dpowell his website crashed email him and he will respond quickly he is an honest guy and very knowlegable he'll help you out!
tell him i sent you for the discount
#12
they take pretty good hits. if you hit the wall at full throttle top speed anything can happen even on none tplate cars dave anything can break but the cars are diffenatly stronger now
#13
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
Originally posted by speedxl
anything can break but the cars are diffenatly stronger now
anything can break but the cars are diffenatly stronger now
-dave
#14
Dave,
The Corally 12G3 has the pod instead of the tubes (It can be put on it as an option though) but the Corally's never had tweak screws . As he pod is self centering, therefor Corally said no tweakscrews were nessecary.
Also this one is very good for carpet.
The M is better ouitside then he G3.
But you should just go for what is available (parts) I think.
And off course what looks good LOL.
The Corally 12G3 has the pod instead of the tubes (It can be put on it as an option though) but the Corally's never had tweak screws . As he pod is self centering, therefor Corally said no tweakscrews were nessecary.
Also this one is very good for carpet.
The M is better ouitside then he G3.
But you should just go for what is available (parts) I think.
And off course what looks good LOL.
#15
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
Speaking of Corally, I have a line on a graphite G3 for pretty cheap. I may take the plunge yet...
-dave
-dave