RichyRich

iTrader: (7)

Anybody have any suggestions on making a RDX handle in transam class? It goes from traction roll to out of control?

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Try 14.5# springs and 30wt in the rear and 17# springs and 40wt up front. No stabilizers and set up by the manual. That works for my RDX TA and a front one-way. 5mm ride height.

WinnipegRacer

buy an XRay

tomt2

WinnipegRacer was right, buying an xray is the only way.

wide_mouth_frog

iTrader: (1)

Nice to see contructive help

Maybe search the RDX thread, I am sure there will be someone to help you sort out your problems

Good luck

rtherbe

iTrader: (13)

Add more droop. If your screws are turned in too much (less droop) she is real stiff in the rear end. Experiment with that, It's fundamental to initial set up..I own 4 TC's (Ta05,Tc3,Losi,& RDX) and they all react differently to droop settings. I have noticed the Corraly to be the most sensitive, and The Tamiya to be the most forgiving..

After you see how droop affects handling then you can make other subtle changes like springs, shock position, oil weight, toe in or out...etc.

alcyon

iTrader: (8)

there is no harm to set more droop, however, usualy more droop will cause you to traction roll.so try to reduce droop instead.
but then again, it might be a different problem altogether, you say your car traction rolls then the rear end slides? that means something is wrong with the car. first do these steps.

1. take of all the wheels.
2. remove the shocks.
3. remove the outer hinge pin and the c hub.
4. remove also the antiroll bar connection to the arm
the reason to do this, is to make sure there is nothing connected to all your arms, now move your arm up and let go, does the arm fall back down on its own very freely? if it dosent, then your hinge pins are bent, check your outer hingepins too.
if any hingepin is bent, replace it. then retest, the arm should fall down by its own weight, very smoothly and quickly.
Once you got that sorted out, check all your diff outdrives for wear, is the outdrive worn until there is a spot where it would catch the drive shaft? if yes, replace the outdrive.
Next check that your diffs are smooth
next, if you use a front one way diff, check if your one way is damaged or not, by moving each front wheel backwards very quickly several times, if your wheel slips, then your one way is damaged.
Next rebuild your shocks, use like 50 wt oil for the front, and 30 for the rear, 2 holes all around.
make sure the front shocks are the same length with each other, as well as the rear. Use front springs that are 2 steps stiffer than the rear. now install back the shocks with the anti roll bars, and tweak the suspension, to ensure that all 4 wheels touch the ground at the same time. that should solve your problem. if not, either reduce or increase droop a a little at a time, re set camber and retweak the car. always works for me, my old kawada alcyon2 is still kicking butt by just doing these steps. its on rails.

SpraydbySprague

iTrader: (64)

Very true, droop is important. here's another example.

I had a similar problem with a touring car's handling. Ironically an xray .
I inspected the setup carefully and realized the lack of sufficient droop was the problem. What seemed to be happening was the car would lift the inside rear wheel causing the diff to unload turning the rear of the car into dead weight. With the one way in the front now doing all the pulling, the back end would just kick out to the side. Adding the proper amount of droop kept all 4 tires on the ground. Hope this gives you some insight as to what may be happening with your car.

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

its impossible, you'll need to get a japanese TC

RCSteve93

iTrader: (11)

Clean the tires each run, make sure you are at weight, and make sure your shocks and droop are consistent.

Drifting101

iTrader: (8)

If Xray is so good why do you need dremel in the pit bag

tomt2

That'd be from his Losi days

rtherbe

iTrader: (13)

Spaydbysprague, You explained the situation I had, with the corrally perfectly. The inside rear wheel would lift and the rear end would spin out of control...

redbones

That's a trick to save 1g of rotating mass on each corner.

SpraydbySprague

iTrader: (64)

Glad I could help. The really ironic thing is my problem was the result of running the box stock setup. A few other changes I did were with the shocks. This may seem weird but I simply went right down the middle with all the spring and piston settings. I looked at all the springs and used the ones in the middle of the stiffness range, used the 2 hole pistons. For shock oil, this may seem crazy but it worked for me, I doubled the poundage of the spring tension to determine what shock oil to use. Example; with a 25lb rate spring I ran 50 wt Associated shock oil. If I came up with an 1/2 wt number I rounded up. Once I did all that I then drove the car to see what changes it needed. Turned out the car worked great with foam tires on asphalt. Awesome forward traction, with just the right amount of controlled slide through the corners, and planted when accelerating out of the turns. Good luck with your next race. I'm thinkin about doin some USVTA racing next summer.