143LikesAwesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)
12-20-2014, 08:31 AM
#7606
I realize not many have run the new dampers, but are there any initial impressions on both variables of oil thickness and damper position on the car used at the same time? In other words, is it more likely that as testing goes on, the dampers will find a sweet spot location where all you do is play with oil and keep the dampers in one fixed spot? Or play with oil while at the same time trying different damper locations?
Should be interesting to see what surfaces either way.
Should be interesting to see what surfaces either way.
12-21-2014, 03:47 AM
#7607
I realize not many have run the new dampers, but are there any initial impressions on both variables of oil thickness and damper position on the car used at the same time? In other words, is it more likely that as testing goes on, the dampers will find a sweet spot location where all you do is play with oil and keep the dampers in one fixed spot? Or play with oil while at the same time trying different damper locations?
Should be interesting to see what surfaces either way.
Should be interesting to see what surfaces either way.
12-21-2014, 10:31 AM
#7609
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When are the new chassis due to ship?
12-21-2014, 11:31 AM
#7610
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One of the perks of the amtx overall was not dealing with oil changes in the dampers. While I dig this tuning option, I would think you would still use the damper position for most of your adjustments and just use the oil changes as bigger overall changes.
It looks like these new dampers are only symmetric in their dampening. Does no one really use the asymetric dampening of the current dampers?
Also is there any ideas on a kind of damper dyno or tester to evaluate the consistency between the 4 corners?
It looks like these new dampers are only symmetric in their dampening. Does no one really use the asymetric dampening of the current dampers?
Also is there any ideas on a kind of damper dyno or tester to evaluate the consistency between the 4 corners?
12-21-2014, 12:21 PM
#7611
I agree Joe.
Difference between the four corners is one of the major things to be on the look out for today. And today the only fix is a new $25 shock. The new shocks allow for end user fixing. That has to be a plus.
Trust me -- the last thing I have time to do is rebuild shocks. Every setup I will come up with won't involve massive maintenance like that... Just for my own success and mental well being.
Oleg has discussed was various measurement tool ideas... And will make one in 2015. Just need to get the car shipping first!
Difference between the four corners is one of the major things to be on the look out for today. And today the only fix is a new $25 shock. The new shocks allow for end user fixing. That has to be a plus.
Trust me -- the last thing I have time to do is rebuild shocks. Every setup I will come up with won't involve massive maintenance like that... Just for my own success and mental well being.
Oleg has discussed was various measurement tool ideas... And will make one in 2015. Just need to get the car shipping first!
12-21-2014, 02:37 PM
#7612
What is the best FFG rod for 17.5? mine has a crack
I run ffg1.1 on a raceberry chassis, usually run the may 24/2014 Jackson setup, dialed on my track
Just installed AT04-2 and 2 am50 instead of am48
Just get a new c31?
I run ffg1.1 on a raceberry chassis, usually run the may 24/2014 Jackson setup, dialed on my track
Just installed AT04-2 and 2 am50 instead of am48
Just get a new c31?
12-21-2014, 06:00 PM
#7614
I have a question on a couple of the carbon rods I have. Both of them are the same OD but they are different ID. The larger ID/thinner wall carbon rod seems to be firmer than the smaller ID/thicker wall carbon rod. Well when I tugged at each end they seemed that way. I don't know which one is which and I was hoping someone could help me out.
12-21-2014, 06:07 PM
#7615
I have a question on a couple of the carbon rods I have. Both of them are the same OD but they are different ID. The larger ID/thinner wall carbon rod seems to be firmer than the smaller ID/thicker wall carbon rod. Well when I tugged at each end they seemed that way. I don't know which one is which and I was hoping someone could help me out.
the more flexible rod should be limited to stock racing.
12-22-2014, 10:53 AM
#7617
Hi, I receive the new chassis and floating motor mount this weekend and just want to share some pictures...
Everything go smoothly the only one thing that need to take care is to check that the screw is not protruding in the AM73-3.
To be certain everything is straight only fully tighten the accessible screws once everything is on the chassis. Just the AM73-3 and AM73-4 need to be tighten prior.
I use the DT03 bearing spacer in the "no flex" position.
Don't take my assembly as granted we will need the confirmation that everything is OK especially shimming and flex options.
By the way the set screw for the motor adjustment is very clever.
Everything go smoothly the only one thing that need to take care is to check that the screw is not protruding in the AM73-3.
To be certain everything is straight only fully tighten the accessible screws once everything is on the chassis. Just the AM73-3 and AM73-4 need to be tighten prior.
I use the DT03 bearing spacer in the "no flex" position.
Don't take my assembly as granted we will need the confirmation that everything is OK especially shimming and flex options.
By the way the set screw for the motor adjustment is very clever.
12-23-2014, 12:36 AM
#7619
D2-S have only just been released that new parts are coming...
So, the difference between AT41 damper vane and new AT41-0 damper vane is there are no holes in the blades anymore for AT41-0.
But how does it influence the damper's behaviour in comparison to AT41 with holes in the blades? In which tracks conditions are they better suited than normal AT41?
Thanks in advance,
G-rem
So, the difference between AT41 damper vane and new AT41-0 damper vane is there are no holes in the blades anymore for AT41-0.
But how does it influence the damper's behaviour in comparison to AT41 with holes in the blades? In which tracks conditions are they better suited than normal AT41?
Thanks in advance,
G-rem