G-rem

iTrader: (2)

I think I'll do like you said because when all is built together (AM30-5 full screwed, C01-AL-S and C21), it feels a bit stiff...I'll give it a try like that, then I will remove the upper deck or try upper deck + different combinaisons of screwing AM30-5.

I also installed parts to convert my FFG into FFG 1.1, it's super smooth, I've never seen my FFG 1.0 with such a smoothness, great job

cico

iTrader: (1)

i win again

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Again with my screwing questions

When I use set screw on AM30-5, do I have to use 5mm length set screw or 6mm length?
At home, I have 5mm and it seems to not much outstrip out of the chassis, and 8mm length is 1.5mm too long... I guess 6mm will be ok but I'd like to have confirmation

Thanks in advance,
G-rem

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

5mm set screw. wow. that is fancy. i only have 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14mm ones. based upon your description im guessing i'm using the 6mm ones...

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I know, I can't even say where there are from^^

Let's buy some 6mm grub screws so thanks

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

after two rounds of tricky qualifying in Mod TC at the Euros, Freddy is 2nd overall (13 points), and Viljami is 8th overall (27 points). games with when and how to run your two tires are a foot. different drivers not running both of the first two of five qualifiers.

best of luck to the Awesomatix runners at the Euros...

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

http://www.myrcm.ch/myrcm/report/en/17353/139056

Team_Krusty

iTrader: (3)

While there is nothing wrong with my original a700 I'm thinking about getting a new one to run in another class. I'd really like to try the soft aluminium chassis with the ffg (I mostly race low/med grip outdoor) and the new double jointed drive shafts look fantastic. Anyone know if any kit will have this combination any time soon? Spending an extra few hundred over the kit price for the alu chassis seems a bit of a waste

Simon

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Simon- what motor class do u race?

Team_Krusty

iTrader: (3)

13.5 blinky. I'd demote the old car to 21.5 or maybe even step up to mod.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

For non-mod the stock "L" chassis is more than fine...

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

We found this past weekend using 4 screws (2 around the ffg brace, and one at either end ond hole from the end) and no topdeck had very good results on medium grip asphalt. Hopefully Hanulec can post the rest of the setup on the site as well, because the car was the best car I have ever driven on aspahlt ( mod class)

Also for anyone else running asphalt looking for more corner exit/on power grip should try swapping the rear dampers left/right and run asymmetrical damping, this has been a big improvement, and should help over bumps as well

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Yo G.

I get the ASY working well. Do that already.

But - can you explain why swapping L to R, R to L improves the rate? It seemed to me that the 'stiction' felt the same whether you spin the dampener cam clockwise or counter-clockwise. Perhaps I am missing something.

bkspeedo

iTrader: (5)

Swapping L to R does nothing unless your running asymmetrical. By swapping it will change the direction the dampening is soft versus stiff. I believe by default dampening is soft on compression and stiff on rebound.

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

Swapping l/r and running asymmetrical makes it so the bump is stiff, and the rebound is soft. On the track this gives more forward drive, I think because it keeps the outside corner from dumping over and it allows the inside tire to stay on the ground better. If you run symmetric then there is no difference if you swap l/r. This change really allows you to let the car have good mid corner rotation and also be planted on power